TJ rear disc brake conversion

[TJ4Jim]

I know that quote is 3 years old, and referenced a job that was already 2 years old then. So it could easily be way out of date now.

But I still can't help looking at the $150 total price tag after a core refund. All I'm seeing now is $600-$800 for a conversion kit, with little difference between a Cherokee or Ford base, and no mention of a core anywhere.

Am I missing something? Was it more of a self-engineered job without a kit? In any case, what should I look for now?

—-

'97 TJ Sport, Dana 35

I just hit the salvage yard for a complete rear ($50) and stripped it using the calipers for a core replacement. The rotors were good so they were reused and all she needed was new pads and E-brake cables

 

[mrblaine]

I know that quote is 3 years old, and referenced a job that was already 2 years old then. So it could easily be way out of date now.

But I still can't help looking at the $150 total price tag after a core refund. All I'm seeing now is $600-$800 for a conversion kit, with little difference between a Cherokee or Ford base, and no mention of a core anywhere.

Am I missing something? Was it more of a self-engineered job without a kit? In any case, what should I look for now?

—-

'97 TJ Sport, Dana 35

There should be little difference in price between Ford 8.8, ZJ rear discs, Liberty rear discs, or Jeep Rubicon rear discs since they are all roughly the same parts with only some minor fitment differences.

 

[Dan_Goodwin]

I know that quote is 3 years old, and referenced a job that was already 2 years old then. So it could easily be way out of date now.

But I still can't help looking at the $150 total price tag after a core refund. All I'm seeing now is $600-$800 for a conversion kit, with little difference between a Cherokee or Ford base, and no mention of a core anywhere.

Am I missing something? Was it more of a self-engineered job without a kit? In any case, what should I look for now?

—-

'97 TJ Sport, Dana 35

I did this swap last fall and have less than $150 in the swap. I pulled the rear brake assemblies (caliper, caliper mounting bracket, rotor and soft brake line) from a 97 ZJ for $100(?) from Pull a Part and swapped onto the Dana 35 of my 97 TJ. I was able to re-use pads, rotor and caliper, but everything bolted right up with the exception of the parking brake cable. Had I salvaged this from the ZJ, it would have been a bolt on swap, however since I kept the TJ cable I ended up using a cable clamp to attach my stock cable to the ZJ brake lever.

I made the swap in lieu of rebuilding the drum brakes on my TJ and for the benefit of the ease of maintenance and performance in the unavoidable southeast mud.

Edit: Picture added because pictures make everything better. First mockup of brake install.

 

[Ephry73]

...

I made the swap in lieu of rebuilding the drum brakes on my TJ and for the benefit of the ease of maintenance and performance in the unavoidable southeast mud.

This is my reasoning for it as well. I will be keeping the Dana 35, and just do a Super Dana 35 kit and upgrade to discs, unless I can find a Dana 44 for super cheap lol

 

[Harold Cobb]

You will not gain any stopping power by converting rear drums to disk. The only thing you gain is easier maintenance. Is that worth the time and effort to convert to disk to you?

 

[Harold Cobb]

Every one says stopping not increase. However, mine been take care by me and professional jeep guys. Still fronts work when rear nothing unless constantly adjust. Forget that. Disc much better

 

[JMT]

Every one says stopping not increase. However, mine been take care by me and professional jeep guys. Still fronts work when rear nothing unless constantly adjust. Forget that. Disc much better

All TJ’s come equipped with disc brakes in the front.

The discussion is on the validity of swapping the rear drums for disks.

Since 75% of the braking is in the front, there is no real braking benefit to swapping the rears. The only benefit is ease of maintenance.

 

[Jeep 541X]

What will fit your Dana 35 or Dana 44 TJ Wrangler:

1995-2001 8.8 Ford Explorer rear disc brake assemblies will fit with re-drill.

However to keep your Jeep all Jeep I'd go with:

1995-1998 ZJ Grand Cherokee Dana 35 & Dana 44 rear axle disc brake assemblies. Dana 35 is most common & works for both 35 or 44 on a TJ.

The Dana 35 disc brackets will require a drill motor powered drum sander to open up the axle bearing hole slightly to fit on TJ & Rubicon Dana 44 housings ever so slightly. This is to clear the axle shaft oil seal.

Additional parts needed:

1. Disc brake bearing retainers from a 2003-2006 TJ/rubicon Dana 44 rear axle. These can be either installed when new seals, bearings & bearing retainer is pressed on to the non C clip axle shaft or you can notch the plate to fit around the axle shaft. If sealed with silicone properly, it won't leak and is fine even long term if no access to a press & not changing the seals or bearings. Not an issue on C clip axle shafts.

2. Longer axle to brake four bolts & nuts that hold the caliper brackets on. These are fine thread with lock nuts. Grab these while robbing parts off the donor axle.

3 & 4. Left & Right side parking brake cable assemblies from Omix-Ada or Crown, (if discontinued by the dealer) re-connection to the equalizer & parking brake handle. Ask again for 2003-2006 Rubicon TJ rear axle Dana 44 as refrence vehicle.

5 & 6. ZJ Grand Cherokee rubber brake hoses from axle hard line to calipers and possibly grab the hard lines off the ZJ Grand donor axle to re-use on your axle unless you know how to properly cut install & flair brake line fittings safely.

7 & 8. Grab the attachment bolts for the caliper brake hoses while you're at it. You can drill holes in the axle spring buckets at the same locations on your axle as the original disc brake hose brackets were attached at on the donor axle.

9. Quart of DOT 3 approved unless your Jeep specifically says DOT 4, otherwise make sure to use the same type fluid for the master cylinder.

10. All new hardware kit & parking shoes, pads & possibly new rotors so everything will be fresh & G.T.G. when you're done.MMaybe trade the old calipers in as a core on remans if they at all looked sketchy or if they had composite pistons in them that are cracked, chipped or if they were leaking at all. Also check to see if the guide pins are smooth and the calipers weren't sticking with uneven pad wear. Better safe than sorry.

11. OPTIONAL, speed bleeders if you wanna make it quick, otherwise clear fishtank hose and jar or vacuum bleeder, whatever method you choose to bleed your brakes and flush the system with all new fluid front & rear as a maintenance safety item.

I have personally converted every CJ-7, YJ & TJ Wrangler I've ever owned to 4-wheel discs and usually also perform a "Big Brake" conversion up front with appropriate master cylinder change out as needed. This is for improved safety and stopping power with the larger wheels, bigger tires, deeper gears and low range crawler 4.3:1 transfer case upgrades on my Jeeps. Nothing like trying to hold the rig back on an extreme downhill decent, try to keep stationary on a steep climb up hill or come off a ledge & your brakes won't hold!

Right down the point.... WOW!!! Thank you so so much!!!