Rear bumper that hides body lift

104753
 
Pointing out something that you have no idea about and acting as though it’s a shit build...that’s bad juju.

Here you go Junior for the next time you want to try and call someone out because you lack the intellect to understand that some of us do know what we are doing and know what we are talking about.
We started yesterday morning on this front axle setting up the steering, trackbar, high steer arms, coil over hoops, and upper arm mount. At 8am yesterday the front axle was sitting on jack stands with ONLY the lower arms connected but not adjusted to length to position the axle fore and aft, and side to side.

We centered it, adjusted the arms based on an approximation for the 40" tires it is running, installed the high steer arms, mocked up a tie rod, mocked up a track bar, mocked up a draglink, mocked up a draglink connection tab, mocked up a pitman arm, set the pinion angle, installed the exhaust to check for clearance between the pinion, built a trackbar tab, tacked it to the frame, all so we could start cycling it to get clearance for uptravel dialed in.

Once we could cycle it, we notched the motor mount bracket for the upper arm to slide into, notched the frame for the trackbar and draglink, got some more uptravel and kept at it until we got it as high as it can go.
Here is the upper mount bumping up against the AC compressor.
DSC_4920.JPG


When that became the definitive limit, we knew how long we could make our shock hoops. We grabbed them, cut them down a tad, tacked on the upper shock mount, tacked the lower into place, and then put a shock in to cycle it. It now looks like this.
DSC_4925.JPG


From the front bearing in mind that when we started yesterday morning, there was nothing but a bare axle sitting on jack stands with two control arms hooked to it.
DSC_4926.JPG

We snuck in there and got this one by the short hairs while you were still running around playing internet hero. Next time you want to call someone out, you may want to think about it first.
DSC_4927.JPG
 
Now the real question, Could you use an air bump/hydro bump to stop compression instead of using harsh valving in the coilover at the top of the compression stroke since your using the top of the compression stroke at ride height. Notice i used the word “could”.

It's very clear to me that you've never tuned or even looked inside a shock before or else you wouldn't be asking this question and have been the laughing stock of a conversation I had today. So for that, thank you for asking this question — we had a good chuckle.

Now, if you want to actually learn something, and don't mind realizing that you asked a question that makes no sense, you should read my build thread. Specifically my next update later today or tomorrow.
 
Anyone know of a rear bumper tire carrier that less bulky - just a bit less that hides rear body puck ?
See post #20 on the first page of this thread.

You dont need anything but some plate to hide the, “butt crack.” (@Starrs)

Here is a simple solution that likely would cost less than a complete bumper. It’s clean, simple, and can easily be painted to hide or to match the tub’s exterior paint.

IMO, the bumpers that hide the crack are hideous and very bulky. Taking away from the clean minimal lines of a TJ.
4E3FF453-68DF-49A0-BCEC-215E57E3F8A7.jpeg
A3B1133C-EE11-4AE4-A82F-DFB00ED95E12.jpeg
F16DFD51-FE6F-4709-A647-965D2185D534.jpeg
D8201C96-37A1-4A5E-9FB8-EDD514383AB4.jpeg
14FADCF8-5511-405C-B7B4-927723E9B839.jpeg
E73A7F1E-90EE-42DD-B18F-BCD82E0E86B6.jpeg
 
You dont need anything but some plate to hide the, “butt crack.” (@Starrs)

Here is a simple solution that likely would cost less than a complete bumper. It’s clean, simple, and can easily be painted to hide or to match the tub’s exterior paint.

IMO, the bumpers that hide the crack are hideous and very bulky. Taking away from the clean minimal lines of a TJ.View attachment 148668View attachment 148669View attachment 148670View attachment 148671View attachment 148672View attachment 148673

WOW, I don't know who's Jeep that is but I am mildly aroused right now.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fouledplugs
See post #20 on the first page of this thread.

You dont need anything but some plate to hide the, “butt crack.” (@Starrs)

Here is a simple solution that likely would cost less than a complete bumper. It’s clean, simple, and can easily be painted to hide or to match the tub’s exterior paint.

IMO, the bumpers that hide the crack are hideous and very bulky. Taking away from the clean minimal lines of a TJ.View attachment 148668View attachment 148669View attachment 148670View attachment 148671View attachment 148672View attachment 148673
Did you weld it ? Or how does it hold on