mako_Five.56

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Hey Jeepers.

2005 Rubicon TJ, Auto w/ 152k. Here is my issue:

Lately I've been feeling a loud clunk when turning namely left. Well it's more of a snap feeling and sound. So. The other day I was driving home and the "rear lock" light began flashing on the dash. I pulled over and this stopped only to happen again later which turned off again after stop (this was at hwy speeds). Worth noting that it first happened when I was taking ramp exit and the drivers front dipped (sway bar loose possibly? Confirmed it had play in it). The "rear lock" flashed again while goinf straight. When I got home I checked the rear diff fluid to find that it was very dry possibly empty (did not pull cover yet just added till fill hole overflowed - it needed a lot).

Thinking this was a tie rod or front sway bar link as they could need some attention and have now ordered those parts, I'm now a little concerned it could be something in the rear diff (front diff fluid looks fine). Worth noting there were some metal shavings on the magnet in the rear diff plug.

I remember a while ago I ran a slightly larger diameter tire (my spare after getting it shaved down) on the rear passenger. Could this have caused damage to my diff or caused it to leak OR could this strictly have been damage based off low diff fluid...

Any ideas what the snap is based on this summary?

Why is "rear lock" flashing when driving down the hwy without hitting the rocker switch?

Can a rear diff make a snap/clunk sound when turning? Does anyone think there is a connection here and your thoughts on where to begin? Thanks in advance.
 
Back out the rear diff fill plug.they hit the locking ring very easily and make it engage the locker partway. Might need to use teflon tape to seal and not interfere
 
Back out the rear diff fill plug.they hit the locking ring very easily and make it engage the locker partway. Might need to use teflon tape to seal and not interfere

Thanks for reply Ricky. I did back it out a little after I refilled the diff. Haven't driven since then but hopefully that fixed the light flashing. Thinking IF the diff has been compromised or since it was low on fluid, maybe that causes the light to flash?
 
Long story kind of short. I am battling a similar issue right now. After this happened I pulled the cover and carrier (and bearings) and found the chewed gear. Searching when I can for parts. I cleaned it once. Everything that had been chunked was caught by the magnetic drain plug. It has only popped one other time since the first occurrence and I drove it for a bit drained the oil and the magnet caught a lot. Put a flexible magnet in the pumpkin and came out with nothing. IF nothing else is messed up I say run it with periodic checks until you find parts (if this is your issue) or put something entirely new in.
 
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Yes... Definitely feel like a binding/catching when turning along with the snap noise. I thought this could have been tie rods or sway bar cause one of both could use repair. I thought it felt like it was coming from the front (which is why I was looking for a busted bushing) but I realize the rear axle is almost underneath driver /passenger seats.
 
Long story kind of short. I am battling a similar issue right now. After this happened I pulled the cover and carrier (and bearings) and found the chewed gear. Searching when I can for parts. I cleaned it once. Everything that had been chunked was caught by the magnetic drain plug. It has only popped one other time since the first occurrence and I drove it for a bit drained the oil and the magnet caught a lot. Put a flexible magnet in the pumpkin and came out with nothing. IF nothing else is messed up I say run it with periodic checks until you find parts (if this is your issue) or put something entirely new in.

Ok. So my first step needs to be to pull the cover and inspect. What parts was it that you needed for your situation?
 
Yes... Definitely feel like a binding/catching when turning along with the snap noise. I thought this could have been tie rods or sway bar cause one of both could use repair. I thought it felt like it was coming from the front (which is why I was looking for a busted bushing) but I realize the rear axle is almost underneath driver /passenger seats.

Open the cover and see what the magnets have stuck to them. There is one at the cover and another on the bottom of the housing at the drain plug.
 
Ok. So my first step needs to be to pull the cover and inspect. What parts was it that you needed for your situation?

There are no repair parts. If the locker is stripped, then you don't have a locker. But if the LSD is breaking up, it will only get more violent as time goes on.
 
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There are no repair parts. If the locker is stripped, then you don't have a locker. But if the LSD is breaking up, it will only get more violent as time goes on.

That sucks if that's the case for the locker. As a side topic which one are you going to replace it with?
 
That sucks if that's the case for the locker. As a side topic which one are you going to replace it with?
Two good choices for a similar selectable type of locker would be the Eaton E-Locker which is electrically actuated, and the ARB Air Locker which uses compressed air to engage it. Unfortunately the Rubicon's air compressors for its lockers only put out 5 psi, ARB's Air Locker requires no less than 85-90 psi. But you could sell the compressor for your bad locker on eBay and get quite a bit of $$$ for it since they're very hard to find. Or keep it for a spare for your remaining Rubicon locker.
 
Two good choices for a similar selectable type of locker would be the Eaton E-Locker which is electrically actuated, and the ARB Air Locker which uses compressed air to engage it. Unfortunately the Rubicon's air compressors for its lockers only put out 5 psi, ARB's Air Locker requires no less than 85-90 psi. But you could sell the compressor for your bad locker on eBay and get quite a bit of $$$ for it since they're very hard to find. Or keep it for a spare for your remaining Rubicon locker.

Thanks Jerry.
Replaced mine with an ARB a

Two good choices for a similar selectable type of locker would be the Eaton E-Locker which is electrically actuated, and the ARB Air Locker which uses compressed air to engage it. Unfortunately the Rubicon's air compressors for its lockers only put out 5 psi, ARB's Air Locker requires no less than 85-90 psi. But you could sell the compressor for your bad locker on eBay and get quite a bit of $$$ for it since they're very hard to find. Or keep it for a spare for your remaining Rubicon locker.

Understood thanks Jerry. I'll likely have some questions for that if/when I need to get around to getting new locker if that's one of the issues I'm having. Will report back once I get my diff cover off and look in there with pics. I'm going to soak the bolts in PB blaster as it's been a minute since its been off. Have to work for next few days so I'll get to it after.
 
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Thanks Jerry.




Understood thanks Jerry. I'll likely have some questions for that if/when I need to get around to getting new locker if that's one of the issues I'm having. Will report back once I get my diff cover off and look in there with pics. I'm going to soak the bolts in PB blaster as it's been a minute since its been off. Have to work for next few days so I'll get to it after.
PB-Blaster is not a good penetrant, it's barely better than WD-40. Next time you buy a penetrant get Liquid Wrench, Kroil, or Break-Free. All three of which tested significantly better than PB-Blaster or WD-40.
 
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The locker light flashing means the requested locker position doesn't match the position indicated by the sensor in the diff.

So, assuming the requested position is unlocked since you are not in 4L, the cluster is receiving a locked indication from the sensor in the diff when it's flashing.
 
The locker light flashing means the requested locker position doesn't match the position indicated by the sensor in the diff.

So, assuming the requested position is unlocked since you are not in 4L, the cluster is receiving a locked indication from the sensor in the diff when it's flashing.

So the diff can be locked when there's a problem like this while not in 4Low? Your thoughts on the cause of this?
 
So the diff can be locked when there's a problem like this while not in 4Low? Your thoughts on the cause of this?

Many have done the locker switch bypass which can allow the Rubicon lockers to be activated in any transfer case position.
 
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