Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Rear jounce to bump stop question

You say it's supposed to be 50/50 ......I'm at 5 inches of shaft showing at full compression and 9 1/4 fully extended .... So for the second time can you tell me how to fix it without the sarcasm🤪
 
You say it's supposed to be 50/50 ......I'm at 5 inches of shaft showing at full compression and 9 1/4 fully extended .... So for the second time can you tell me how to fix it without the sarcasm🤪

Do your homework, then think about what needs to happen in order to achieve 50/50 travel on your existing 9.25" travel shock.

If you aren't building shock mounts, then 50/50 is simply a goal that may not be perfectly achievable. Just like perfectly lined up bump stops are unlikely the more the pinion is raised. The fix there is to relocate the upper spring seats.

The entire point of these exercises is to better understand how these things move around and work together.
 

Static ride height = vehicle sitting on the wheels or jack stands under axle. I check it with the normal gear that I carry.
Full compression = axle all the way up against hard stop. Usually checked with springs removed.
Your shocks are 5” at ride height and 9 1/2” fully extended. The puts you at about 43/57. If ideal is 50/50 up vs down travel 4 3/4” of shaft showing at ride height. These are the compromises of modifying a Jeep. They can be dealt with time and $
I have used those long bump stops. The problem I ran into I bottomed out and the angle mismatch ( upper bump stop mount vs lower spring pad) caused the bump stop to bend and break off and the shock to bottom and tear the lower mount off the axle. ( it was a hard hit)
I went to a spacer between the upper cup and the mount and also a small pad on the bottom mount. ( I drilled and tapped the lower spring pad). I also made the pad larger for more contact area for the upper bump stop.
I have since relocated the upper spring mounts to correct this.
Take a look at the Currie bump stop kit they have addressed this problem with a bigger round bumper and larger lower plate.
https://savvyoffroad.com/product/ce-9122r/
 
Last edited:
Static ride height = vehicle sitting on the wheels or jack stands under axle. I check it with the normal gear that I carry.
Full compression = axle all the way up against hard stop. Usually checked with springs removed.
Your shocks are 5” at ride height and 9 1/2” fully extended. The puts you at about 43/57. If ideal is 50/50 up vs down travel 4 3/4” of shaft showing at ride height. These are the compromises of modifying a Jeep. They can be dealt with time and $
I have used those long bump stops. The problem I ran into I bottomed out and the angle mismatch ( upper bump stop mount vs lower spring pad) caused the bump stop to bend and break off and the shock to bottom and tear the lower mount off the axle. ( it was a hard hit)
I went to a spacer between the upper cup and the mount and also a small pad on the bottom mount. ( I drilled and tapped the lower spring pad). I also made the pad larger for more contact area for the upper bump stop.
I have since relocated the upper spring mounts to correct this.
Take a look at the Currie bump stop kit they have addressed this problem with a bigger round bumper and larger lower plate.
[URL]https://savvyoffroad.com/product/ce-9122r/[/URL]

Thanks a ton brother... finally someone else who will actually explain shit and not just exploit you😀
 
Thanks a ton brother... finally someone else who will actually explain shit and not just exploit you😀

It's said a lot here but I don't see any exploitation here. When some of our members walk you through a problem, it not only helps you understand but it also helps others understand. There are plenty of things I know nothing about and when every step is worked through it helps me understand.

I know my rear suspension is setup wrong, I need to go through this.
 
It's said a lot here but I don't see any exploitation here. When some of our members walk you through a problem, it not only helps you understand but it also helps others understand. There are plenty of things I know nothing about and when every step is worked through it helps me understand.t

I know my rear suspension is setup wrong, I need to go through this.

I agree with you 100%...... maybe exploitation was too harsh....but some members just wait to pounce on you when you screw iup instead of helping you through it and explaining how to do it right.... They assume your a tj guru and there's only a few here
 
Thanks a ton brother... finally someone else who will actually explain shit and not just exploit you😀

I'm glad you have your answer, but don't be bitter at jjvw.

I, personally, like when the knowledgeable folks on this forum help me work through problems by asking me the correct questions in order for me to figure things out for myself. I feel this is the best way to learn. The answers stick with you longer if you know how to work through the problem instead of someone just giving you the correct answer. I believe this is what jjvw was doing in this thread.

Just my opinion, but I've learned a ton from the gurus around here and I'm actually grateful when they point out mistakes or incorrect assumptions I make.
The only time I see any of them actually lose patience with someone is when someone makes an incorrect assumption which the guru corrects, then the person continues to push that false assumption and argue their point. Not to say you did this, I'm just speaking for myself and what I've seen and learned from this valuable place.

Cheers,
Mike
 
Just a question about the vibes, you did a 4" spring lift and a ultra clearance skid? What about their lopro trans mount? Did you also do a SYE? Maybe a super short one? That's a lot of driveline lift that is certain to upset that driveshaft and require some pretty aggressive pinion angle change, possibly even relocation on some things.
 
I'm glad you have your answer, but don't be bitter at jjvw.

I, personally, like when the knowledgeable folks on this forum help me work through problems by asking me the correct questions in order for me to figure things out for myself. I feel this is the best way to learn. The answers stick with you longer if you know how to work through the problem instead of someone just giving you the correct answer. I believe this is what jjvw was doing in this thread.

Just my opinion, but I've learned a ton from the gurus around here and I'm actually grateful when they point out mistakes or incorrect assumptions I make.
The only time I see any of them actually lose patience with someone is when someone makes an incorrect assumption which the guru corrects, then the person continues to push that false assumption and argue their point. Not to say you did this, I'm just speaking for myself and what I've seen and learned from this valuable place.

Cheers,
Mike

Oh I think I'll probably always be bitter @jjvw he can be a real @&(? Sometimes but he really knows. His shit so I follow him......and I love it when guru's tell me I'm wrong.... I've never argued with them ...... they know more than I do...and it's nice when they put me in my place...but some people assume you're a master mechanic when you're really a novice and trying to learn from them
 
Just a question about the vibes, you did a 4" spring lift and a ultra clearance skid? What about their lopro trans mount? Did you also do a SYE? Maybe a super short one? That's a lot of driveline lift that is certain to upset that driveshaft and require some pretty aggressive pinion angle change, possibly even relocation on some things.

Yeah did sssye with the d/c driveshaft.....vibes didn't happen until the belly pan install......removed the front driveshaft to rule it out and still have vibes so it's in the rear I think
 
I agree with you 100%...... maybe exploitation was too harsh....but some members just wait to pounce on you when you screw iup instead of helping you through it and explaining how to do it right.... They assume your a tj guru and there's only a few here

You weren't being pounced on, you were being poked because you just want a spoon fed answer that doesn't help you learn how it works and how to solve the problems which you may also encounter some day when there aren't lots of nice folks to stand around and hold your hand.

We also don't know what you don't know so until we get answers that show us like not knowing that ride height has nothing to do with the tires for this exercise, then we don't know how involved to get with the answer. I can write a fucking book on brakes. I'd prefer to narrow that down to something relevant that solves the problem.
 
Yeah did sssye with the d/c driveshaft.....vibes didn't happen until the belly pan install......removed the front driveshaft to rule it out and still have vibes so it's in the rear I think

You need to keep playing with the rear pinion angle, throw away the angle finder, and just make small adjustments with a test drive to tell you if it is getting better or worse. Raising the lowering the belly skid is a fool's errand when adjusting the rear pinion does the exact same angle changes.
 
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@jjvw was helping you. The answers seemed so obvious. You’ve been here since 2018 and you don’t know these things? It’s hard to believe you’re at the point of a TT and you don’t know what static ride height, full compression, and how to figure out your travel bias with a 9.25” travel shock and 5” of shaft showing at ride height. You might want to call it quits on the mods till you know what you’re doing. You have to put in some effort around here to understand. Get under the Jeep. Think. Everyone else has too.
 
You need to keep playing with the rear pinion angle, throw away the angle finder, and just make small adjustments with a test drive to tell you if it is getting better or worse. Raising the lowering the belly skid is a fool's errand when adjusting the rear pinion does the exact same angle changes.

Does anyone run the pinion angle higher than the driveshaft....? doesn't make sense to me for lubrication purposes
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts