OP
Rear jounce to bump stop question
- Thread starter gatertamer
- Start date
It's just like asking why 34" waist jeans don't measure exactly 34" ... you have to do some research to get the right length shocks.
Thanks a ton brother... finally someone else who will actually explain shit and not just exploit you
Perfect. I exist to make you solve simple math problems purely for my entertainment.
A rough estimate from the wear marks on your shock casings looks like your shocks may not be too long, If the shock has compression that isn't marked as a wear pattern on the case, you may be okay which could be if the full articulation seldom happened in the past. Put the shocks back on and see where the compression stop on the shocks hit or don't hit, The bump stops definitely have to keep the shock from topping out to keep from exploding the internals on full compression. The shocks are gas charged and go to full extension with quite a bit of force to compress them. Assume you haven't fitted shocks already and tested compression, forgive me if you've already tried the shocks in compression
Thanks a ton brother... finally someone else who will actually explain shit and not just exploit you
You’re welcome, I could see you weren’t grasping what was coming across. I hope you have a better understanding of what’s going on and can see your shock body may be too long for what you have. In the rear of the tj you will need to put the tire on to verify where it hits at full compression. Then you have a decision to make to stop the tire from hitting the body. Either longer bump stops, smaller tires or cut the body. It appears your fenders are already cut.
Except that doesn't solve the problem of having just about the correct amount of shock shaft showing at ride height. He needs to dump those shock extenders and see what it is doing then.
Those are an odd set of extenders they seem to raise the shock mount up more than out. He is really close to 50/50.
Not really, they all do it. It's due to the angle of the stock mounts and what happens when you have to bolt something into them. He is very close, so why is his shock bottoming out so soon?
Here we are 4 pages deep and it doesn't seem like any ground has been made.
I don't like those harder jounce bumpers, I prefer extension/spacers that move the cup. The Currie one is pricer than many options but it works well by closing the gap from both sides instead of just one.
I don't have any photos of it but if memory serves me correctly, once I had everything spaced appropriately the cup and the lower pad lined up pretty well, and I just stuffed the factory jounce bumper back into the cup.
I don't like those harder jounce bumpers, I prefer extension/spacers that move the cup. The Currie one is pricer than many options but it works well by closing the gap from both sides instead of just one.
I don't have any photos of it but if memory serves me correctly, once I had everything spaced appropriately the cup and the lower pad lined up pretty well, and I just stuffed the factory jounce bumper back into the cup.
You are probably correct, I seem to remember that the ones on my Jeep pushed the shocks back more. You have a whole lot more experience in this matter than I do.
Ditch the mount extension brackets, bolt up the shock, stuff the suspension until the shocks bottom and measure the gap between the end of the cup and the lower pad. Get back to us with the measurement and we can help you figure out if your shocks are actually too long.
Don't just decide you're done and take it for a drive though, because once you know what shocks you're using you'll need to clearance the back of the spring perch so they don't destroy the shocks the first time you droop it.
We disco the shocks, jack stands under frame. Lower axle until you can push the shock forward and line it up in the mount, clearance perch + some for articulation until you can get the shock in the mount with the bolt installed.
OP
I just put them on last week
thought I was making a good move going with savvy
OP
...
thought I was making a good move going with savvy
What made to choose the Savvy shock relocation brackets over what Rough County offers? Did you know that the ones you bought are actually from Currie?
OP
What made to choose the Savvy shock relocation brackets over what Rough County offers? Did you know that the ones you bought are actually from Currie?
Why would I go with R/C when I could go with Currie through Savvy?...... doesn't matter anyway... I'm ditching them.
OP
Ok got results.... I think.....fully compressed the rear shocks....I have 4 inches of space between the pads.....cup removed....my cup and bump stop are about 5 1/4 long....shock shaft is 9 1/4 long fully extended. (5000x's)..... Where to go from here?