I’d like to try and leave the exhaust on. I can see some scuffs on the pan where it slid on the exhaust as it was installed.

I really can’t imagine why it was still leaking. Whoever did the rear main and pan gasket obviously used the proper amount of rtv and the correct torque on the pan bolts. Gasket was imploded and blue chunks of rubber were stuck to the pickup screen.

Previous RMS install had regular rtv dabbed on each end.

I used the anaerobic in hopes it will work. I was tempted to offset the seal 1/8”-3/16” like pictured in this thread earlier.
The only reason I didn’t is because the edges are really sharp on the cap and block as most of you know. Since I cant shoehorn what I can’t see or reach I opted to do it like the book.
I bolted the cap on hand tight then had a moment of panic thinking the sealer didn’t get everywhere it needed to be so I removed to check. Just a dot/shallow smear where indicated in the shared write up goes everywhere it needs to go. Observe the smash out on the side of the cap in the groove for the oil pan gasket.
All the more reason to just leave the seals flush with your other surfaces, I’m sure it made it’s way around the seal ends torquing down to 80.
if someone wanted to theoretically make a one piece seal out of this design, you can follow all of these steps and add a drop of krazy glue on the ends of the seals seated in the cap and put together. The seal texture is about the consistency of skin and you know what happens when you glue your fingers together with that stuff. I opted not to at the last moment in case it has to come apart to check the sealant.
I read this whole thread and there is some great stuff in here. I thought I could add a few more bits of technical info from the shop manual. This is specifically for a 2005 LJ 4.0. I think the main reason a newly installed seal will leak is that it gets cut during install and or the sealant is not done perfectly. Also some might be interested in the service bulletin related to the main seal.

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Just out of curiosity, the FSM says to use "gasket maker". It doesn't say anywhere to use the anaerobic RTV. Why does everyone say to use the anaerobic RTV?

Oh and thanks for posting this.
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Not sure on a scientific level, previous owner of mine used rtv between the bearing cap and block and it leaked like a sieve. I used a couple dots of anaerobic last summer and it’s dry as a bone under my Jeep. You only need anaerobic on the surface of the bearing cap, rtv elsewhere.
Excellent write up. I just finished mine today and from start to finish I used this write up. I probably wouldn’t have tackled this job without it. Thanks for putting it together.

I did struggle with getting the top half of the old seal out of the block. I worked on it for literally hours counting having to search the internet for ways other people have used to get the seal out. In case anyone that’s reading this thread has the same issue, I tried lots of things, but finally got it out. My success was due to a few things. 1. Get a brass punch or two. i used a 1/4” and then ground down a larger one to use as well. 2. Spray up in the channels and holes surrounding the upper seal with pb blaster or similar penetrating oil and wait an hour so. I believe if I’d done this right at the beginning i would’ve gotten it on the first try. 3. Loosen the bearing cap bolts just a bit. I loosened all of mine up more than was necessary since the crankshaft may have moved a 1/32 of an inch, if that. This last step may not be necessary since I think the pub blaster was enough. Then simply use the punch and knock it enough to grab it with some needle nose pliers.

didn’t mean to high jack the thread, just wanted to pass along what I learned. Hope it helps.
I wrote the guide about 13 years ago today.

Having said that, my TJ is still leak free since the write up.

With regards to the seal, the seal cannot be offset. At least the one I had. I suppose the idea has stemmed from wanting to have a different location where the seals mate along with the bearing halves reducing chance of leak but by design how the bottom seal sits on the bearing cap, that would be impossible.

The write up was entirely based on the FSM.

And use standard oil is the one thing I did different (pennzoil 10-30) also let it sit for a week without adding oil after seal changed. Still no leak. That was the 3rd time changing it and did everything same as second time but just no synthetic and let it sit for a week.
I have to depend on the professionals at Swope Motors in this area to fix my 2004 Jeep Wrangler TJ. From the info and pictures it shows that this is a very big project. Looks like you did a super fantastic job!
It cost me $1,366.47 to fix the same leak on my toy. However, it's worth it. My toy is military green with camo seats and black interior with a white star on the hood, 41MB 04 TJ on the edge of the hood on each side, MASH 4077 on the front and rear bumpers and black concealed power steps being I'm 4'10" 129 pounds and 73 years old. The toy does not show it's age at all. It's never been off road, on the mostly enclosed 2 car carport and almost always has an almost military spit shine wax job. I get stopped in parking lots by guys wanting me to let them know when I get ready to sell my JEEP. I tell them, " not yet boys but I'll keep you in mind" however I want it to go to someone that would really appreciate it. Hope you have a great week.
What does that mean? You don't need to drop the tranny to replace the RMS on a 4.0.

As soon as I wrote that I read the first couple of pages of this thread and realize that my shop isn't aware they don't need to drop the tranny. I'll call my Jeep guy next.