Rear shock relocation options (besides outboard)

[Sensei]

Hey guys, I’ve got a project Jeep ive finally gotten put together and rolling around. In the rear I’m running a ford 8.8 axle, and have it stretched back around 6-8 inches, making the rear shocks almost vertical. The major issue I’m having is that the stretch has severely limited my up travel. I’ve probably got less than two inches of exposed shock shaft at ride height. Clearly I need to do something about this sooner rather than later. I know most people at this stage in their builds will usually opt for outboarding the shocks and frenching them into the frame. However, this is something I’m trying to avoid for now due to where my anti rock is setup and not having any body lift currently. In the distant future I do wish to outboard my shocks, but right now I just need to be able to drive the jeep around without busting everything up every time I hit a bump on the road.

Ive seen different options for relocation the shocks, I wish to discuss the pros and cons between some of these different options. I’ve seen people mount the shocks to the front of the axle. I’ve also seen a kit from nth degree mobility called their “shock shift kit” which seems promising, but would probably only give me 1/2-1inch of travel if I managed to shift the axle shock mount 3-6 inches outwards on the axle. Any suggestions on how I should proceed?

 

[jjvw]

The way the question is being asked suggests that the frame arches have not been pushed back 6-8" and/or the gas tank is still in the factory location.

The shocks and mounts simply go where they can fit into the new axle position. However, you then get to figure out how to keep the axle from crashing into the tank during up travel. And you need to figure out how to avoid coil bind at the same time. The shocks are the easier problem.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

With a few inexpensive fasteners from the parts store you can put the bar pin above the crossmember instead of below it and get about 3/4". Details are fairly recent in my build thread.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

Looks like your upper mounts are not stock. I can see where they should mount but it looks like a bracket is welded lower than the stock mount.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

If the shock is the only issue, the simple answer is to get a properly sized shock to hold you over until you do your outboard. Those shocks are too long for that location, and resulting in your reduced uptravel. The lowered upper shock bracket is also contributing.

But pay close attention to JJ’s post above, There may be other things going on as well.

 

[Rickyd]

With a few inexpensive fasteners from the parts store you can put the bar pin above the crossmember instead of below it and get about 3/4". Details are fairly recent in my build thread.

You have a body lift right? Maybe he can get some height without one?

I'd remove the lower mount and lower it and extend it back if needed.

And as Nashville said,those shocks may be the wrong length no matter what you change. Flex it out without them and take compressed/extended measurements. Then find shocks that have compatible lengths.

 

[mrblaine]

Looks like your upper mounts are not stock. I can see where they should mount but it looks like a bracket is welded lower than the stock mount.

They (shock tabs) are welded to the side of the frame.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

You have a body lift right? Maybe he can get some height without one?

I do. He should be able to get the same height, but it'll be a little trickier to install with less room up there.

Looks like your upper mounts are not stock. I can see where they should mount but it looks like a bracket is welded lower than the stock mount.

it's definitely not doing him any favors.

 

[Sensei]

With a few inexpensive fasteners from the parts store you can put the bar pin above the crossmember instead of below it and get about 3/4". Details are fairly recent in my build thread.

Looks like your upper mounts are not stock. I can see where they should mount but it looks like a bracket is welded lower than the stock mount.

They (shock tabs) are welded to the side of the frame.

Yeah unfortunately in the original mounting locations the shock body was hitting the fuel tank. Its a bluetorch fuel tank btw, not running factory anymore, so I do have a bit more room back there over factory. The top mounts for the shocks being on the frame definitely has contributed to the reduction in uptravel, atleast 3/4 of an inch. But I believe it will not be possible for me to use the OE location due to clearance issues.

I'm highly considering moving the shocks to the front of the axle, along with that relocated upper mount, ill try and put as high as I can on the frame. But I really don't want my on road ride characteristics to suffer as a result. Ive seen people do it before, but mainly on massive buggy builds where the axle is already way past the wheel well.

 

[jjvw]

.... But I really don't want my on road ride characteristics to suffer as a result. Ive seen people do it before, but mainly on massive buggy builds where the axle is already way past the wheel well.

What would you expect the impact in ride quality to be by moving the lower mounts in front of the axle?

 

[Sensei]

What would you expect the impact in ride quality to be by moving the lower mounts in front of the axle?

Ive read that mounting the shocks in this way, with them leaning towards the center of the chassis, can lower the effectiveness of them to control body roll among other things. Honestly I haven't gone too in depth about the pros and cons, which is why I wish to discuss them in this thread. Maybe im mistaken, and wont really see any negative impact. I just honestly dont know, and am looking for possible options before I decide on which route I want to go.

 

[jjvw]

Ive read that mounting the shocks in this way, with them leaning towards the center of the chassis, can lower the effectiveness of them to control body roll among other things. Honestly I haven't gone too in depth about the pros and cons, which is why I wish to discuss them in this thread. Maybe im mistaken, and wont really see any negative impact. I just honestly dont know, and am looking for possible options before I decide on which route I want to go.

Body roll side to side can be affected by the mounting width. Rising and sinking fore and aft can be affected by the "wheelbase" length of the shocks.

 

[Sensei]

With a few inexpensive fasteners from the parts store you can put the bar pin above the crossmember instead of below it and get about 3/4". Details are fairly recent in my build thread.

Another option I was considering but ended up changing courses on was to use JKS bar pin eliminators and mount them above the OE shock location, similar to the "socket mod" but using the eliminators themselves as the spacer. I ended up changing courses due to the shock body contacting the fuel tank previously in the OE location already, plus I cant even fit the bar pins in there without body lift. Just way to tight. I even have a hole right in the trunk for my fuel tank access which gives me a relatively clear view of the OE mount and I still cant get the bar pin eliminators situated.

 

[mrblaine]

Another option I was considering but ended up changing courses on was to use JKS bar pin eliminators and mount them above the OE shock location, similar to the "socket mod" but using the eliminators themselves as the spacer. I ended up changing courses due to the shock body contacting the fuel tank previously in the OE location already, plus I cant even fit the bar pins in there without body lift. Just way to tight. I even have a hole right in the trunk for my fuel tank access which gives me a relatively clear view of the OE mount and I still cant get the bar pin eliminators situated.

Whether or not you deem it prudent, shock outboarding solves your issues. You are going to spend a lot of time and effort trying to spooge up a solution that is not really going to work that well unless you move to the front side of the axle temporarily. Even then you'll not be happy with the performance. Not for nothing, but that puts the shock body right in harm's way and likely the highest possibility for repeated shock damage you can create other than just bolting them to the bottom of the axle tube horizontally as skids.

 

[Sensei]

If the shock is the only issue, the simple answer is to get a properly sized shock to hold you over until you do your outboard. Those shocks are too long for that location, and resulting in your reduced uptravel. The lowered upper shock bracket is also contributing.

But pay close attention to JJ’s post above, There may be other things going on as well.

Ended up moving to stock length rancho shocks. Band-aid solution but its honestly all I need right now.