Rear Spring Relocation Without Adding Height?

NOTNSUV

NOW I Know!
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My LJR has rear spring BOLT ON relocation brackets that appear to be adding 2" lift to the 4.5" springs. Measure 19" mount to mount on the RE springs (Stock at 12" correct)?

Is there a relo bracket that will not add lift, or at least minimal lift to the rear. I can find a pal with welding skills if necessary. I'll be changing springs soon to a RockJock/Savvy setup and would like to keep the springs at or near their advertised height and understand there are benefits to the relocation.

Thanks.
 
I think you just need to remove stock upper spring bucket and weld a new one on farther back on the frame. Shouldn’t change the lift height.
 
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Thanks. What a plan..lol.

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Pull that bolt on thing off. Use a die grinder and cut the old perch off the frame, carefully. You can re-use it. cut the long end of the perch flush with the bucket, place it in the center of the frame arch, and weld it in. When I did mine, I picked up a 1/4" of lift...so essentially nothing.
 
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Just outboard and be done with it!
Aaargh. I should have taken welding classes years ago. I've never even attempted.

Another part of the equation is the RE 4.5" rear springs with 225 pound rate so little to no give. 20.25" free length, 19" at ride height with 35" spare on a beadlock on the bumper. Haven't loaded the LJ to trail capacity to see what it would do the way I roll - recovery, tire/fuel carrier bumper, tools, water, other fluids, spare parts.

Is it even worth considering a 2.5 or 3" spring and keep the bolt-on unit? I notice RE spring rate goes UP with shorter springs. Then I'd have to match the front either using same lift height spring or keep the ACOS that are now laying on the shop floor. I'm leaning RockJock/Savvy but their spring rate is 76 or so and fear the sag.
 
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Just outboard and be done with it!
I've read a the first few pages of your build threat my man.. and some closer to current.. you definitely caught the disease and came a long way in a few years.. further than you ever expected or intended I'm betting.
 
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https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/pc1ps-1998-jeep-tj-build-ophelia.42820/post-715437
Not too hard - take @mrblaine advice and jack up the rear of the tub, then use a few 4"x4" pieces to keep it above the frame rails. This will give you plenty of room to get in there with common air tools and get the old ones cut out squarely.

Overall, I think my ride height changed ~1/4" after everything settled, so not much to worry about really.
We measure from a good point on the frame to the axle to get an exact ride height with the old set up. Then we cut the perch out, put the springs back in and set it on them to see where the new ride height is. If it needs to change, we trim or shim it up or down to get what we want. We don't guess.
 
We measure from a good point on the frame to the axle to get an exact ride height with the old set up. Then we cut the perch out, put the springs back in and set it on them to see where the new ride height is. If it needs to change, we trim or shim it up or down to get what we want. We don't guess.
For sure - it shouldn't be too hard to get +/-0" with some additional trimming or notching as needed. I tacked mine in place first, sat everything back down, checked and then double checked measurements and was happy with the trackbar bracket clearance. The 1/4" of lift was welcomed (I was running a set of lightly used RK 3.5" springs at the time), so I burned it in.

@NOTNSUV I think when @DaleW did his, he basically did the same thing I did and also got 1/4" of lift. When I helped a local TJ buddy (not on the forum) do his, he also got 1/4", so that seems to be the standard height increase without any additional trimming. If you're set on your spring selection and ride height, as Blaine said, you can easily achieve 0" lift with some effort.
 
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Aaargh. I should have taken welding classes years ago. I've never even attempted.

Another part of the equation is the RE 4.5" rear springs with 225 pound rate so little to no give. 20.25" free length, 19" at ride height with 35" spare on a beadlock on the bumper. Haven't loaded the LJ to trail capacity to see what it would do the way I roll - recovery, tire/fuel carrier bumper, tools, water, other fluids, spare parts.

Is it even worth considering a 2.5 or 3" spring and keep the bolt-on unit? I notice RE spring rate goes UP with shorter springs. Then I'd have to match the front either using same lift height spring or keep the ACOS that are now laying on the shop floor. I'm leaning RockJock/Savvy but their spring rate is 76 or so and fear the sag.
19” at ride height? That’s 7” of lift. Doesn’t sound right.

Another option is to remove the correction brackets and just run it as is. The arch in the coil isn’t that big a deal.

If you have the ride height you want, why change springs?

Yes, I kind of got carried away with my build, but I needed a project, and it’s been step by step each year.
 
Rear OEM 12" - measured 19" at ride height = +7".
Front OEM 8" - measured 13", spring only @ ride height = +5". (Front spring free length it 20.25" actual, on the floor.)
ACOS adds minimum 1.25" and is (was) adjusted to +3/4" = +2".
So yes, 7" of net lift.
You've got your OEM lengths backwards. Front is 12", rear is 8".
 
You've got your OEM lengths backwards. Front is 12", rear is 8".
Damn the bad luck. That doesn't add to credibility does it..

Yup, my notes tell me that, I just got to typing and transposed the numbers. I'll edit.

Edit: On 2nd thought I deleted the entire diatribe and will repost when I can get it straight.

Thanks!
 
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19” at ride height? That’s 7” of lift. Doesn’t sound right.
No it doesn't sound right, but I've measured it repeatedly.

4.5" front spring + ACOS @2.25" = 6.75" They are 4.5" by p/n & the spring data in the table here, and measured free length.
4.5" rear spring + relo approx. 2.5" = 7". Have not had these out yet but p/n matches 4.5"
Does this not compute?

Bottom of front Currie winch bumper @ 27"
Bottom of rear Currie tire carrier bumper @ 25" (hitch).
Bottom of Nth Degree skid is 19-20".
Top of PS sliders (step) is 30".

My theory is that the installer and a PO (not the folks I got it from, but a PO to them) installed 1.25" TT, BL, MML, and 4.5" RE springs front and rear, and 35s. They didn't like the bow in the rear spring so they put the rear relo in. Then with 2.5" or more added by the relo in the rear, it was a stinkbug, and it was decided to install ACOS up front to compensate/level the front with the rear. Or, it was the plan from the get-go.
Another option is to remove the correction brackets and just run it as is. The arch in the coil isn’t that big a deal.
So, is the arch mostly an aesthetic issue? It does look odd. I would think it would effect something performance/feel wise; is that not so?

There are lots of spring combos that could work I guess.

Replacing 4.5" springs with 3" still gives me 5.5 of lift with the relo out back.
From 4.5" to 3" up front would required I keep the ACOS to adjust to match rear height, not a big deal
What would be the ride quality and off road effect of shorter springs configured this way? I only want to properly run 35s with recommended 4" lift + 1.25" TT, BL, MML (all in place). A bit more that 4" is fine, but 7" just ain't right IMHO.
And I don't mind replacing RE with RJ springs and Bilstein 5100s with Rancho 5000x.

If you have the ride height you want, why change springs?
I don't like the ride height or I wouldn't be doing this exercise, I'd have driven it on the Saturday night run.. lol.
Lower COG and ingress would be nice.
Yes, I kind of got carried away with my build, but I needed a project, and it’s been step by step each year.
I get it, I always seem to 'need' a project.
 
I only want to properly run 35s with recommended 4" lift + 1.25" TT, BL, MML (all in place). A bit more that 4" is fine, but 7" just ain't right IMHO.
This^^^

Just remove the relocation bracket, ACOS system, run 4” RockJock Springs +1.25” BL and 1”MML. Don’t worry about the arch in the rear. It doesn’t effect ride quality. Springs don’t do that. Shocks do that. After your down to 4” SL, make all your adjustments to CA’s and TB’s and bumpstops, call it a day and be happy running 35’s.
 
Is there any validity to measuring top of axle to bottom of frame for determining lift height.
Yes, but you would need reference numbers of the same measurement from a stock vehicle. To be honest, I'd rather measure from axle to frame instead of trying to measure springs, especially arched ones from a rolled pinion. But measuring spring pad to spring pad has become the de facto method.
 
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