Just changed the bushings on the stock rear track bar last night, the ride feels much better after doing so.
Heads up for anyone who plans on changing the bushings or replacing the bar itself, the frame end is relatively easy to break loose, with an 18mm nut and 15mm bolt ends. Lots of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a few hours helped big time. As for the axle end, Loosening the T55 bolt was a PITA and when I managed to loosen it, I wasn't able to pull it out as it hit the gas tank skid plate. Originally, I thought I'd have to drop the gas tank to clear it but as a last-ditch effort to avoid it, I broke out the dremel with some cutoff disks and cut a notch out where the bolt was hitting. After a couple different cuts, the bolt actually clears and comes out easily. Cleaned off the bolts with brake clean and chased the threads with a tap and die. As for bushing removal, I found burning out the bushings and using a pneumatic hammer to deform and crush the sleeves out worked pretty well. Getting the bushing sleeves out took some time even with the pneumatic hammer took about 10 minutes per bushing. Cleaned off the track bar and re-painted it black. As for the new bushings I used energy suspension bushings which were much easier to install, just two rubber halves with a pin for the bolt in the middle. should make future services much easier. re-installing everything was quite easy and for torquing the T55 I had to cut the T55 bit in half lengthwise(dremel) as the torque wrench didn't clear the gas tank. 55ft-lbs for axle and 60fr-lbs for frame end. Before I installed the bar back I coated the whole bar in a thin layer of grease to hopefully prevent any rust for the upcoming winter (Ontario). Had the car oil sprayed before the job.
Attached below are some pictures comparing traditional bushings vs the new style I used.
Heads up for anyone who plans on changing the bushings or replacing the bar itself, the frame end is relatively easy to break loose, with an 18mm nut and 15mm bolt ends. Lots of penetrating oil and letting it sit for a few hours helped big time. As for the axle end, Loosening the T55 bolt was a PITA and when I managed to loosen it, I wasn't able to pull it out as it hit the gas tank skid plate. Originally, I thought I'd have to drop the gas tank to clear it but as a last-ditch effort to avoid it, I broke out the dremel with some cutoff disks and cut a notch out where the bolt was hitting. After a couple different cuts, the bolt actually clears and comes out easily. Cleaned off the bolts with brake clean and chased the threads with a tap and die. As for bushing removal, I found burning out the bushings and using a pneumatic hammer to deform and crush the sleeves out worked pretty well. Getting the bushing sleeves out took some time even with the pneumatic hammer took about 10 minutes per bushing. Cleaned off the track bar and re-painted it black. As for the new bushings I used energy suspension bushings which were much easier to install, just two rubber halves with a pin for the bolt in the middle. should make future services much easier. re-installing everything was quite easy and for torquing the T55 I had to cut the T55 bit in half lengthwise(dremel) as the torque wrench didn't clear the gas tank. 55ft-lbs for axle and 60fr-lbs for frame end. Before I installed the bar back I coated the whole bar in a thin layer of grease to hopefully prevent any rust for the upcoming winter (Ontario). Had the car oil sprayed before the job.
Attached below are some pictures comparing traditional bushings vs the new style I used.