Rear track bar interference

06lj

06lj

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I am currently trying to eliminate as much of my rear bump stop as possible. I have been running 2" and I am hoping that I can reduce that to 1". My issue is that the rear track bar is hitting the tub when cycling the suspension. I currently have the OME track bar relocation bracket installed which raises the track bar by at least an inch. Will an adjustable track bar allow me to regain the extra inch of travel?
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Do you have a body lift? What are you doing to the rear shocks to let you use that up travel?
 
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The relocation bracket helps roll center and geometry but isn’t necessarily critical. In theory you could run just an adjustable track bar instead. But most run both and bump for it. Do you not need that bump to keep the tires or shocks happy?
 
jjvw said:
Do you have a body lift? What are you doing to the rear shocks to let you use that up travel?
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I removed the body lift that I had been running. I may install a 1" body lift in the future. My shocks are Rancho and have a compressed length of 13.75. With .75" of bump stop I have about a 1/4" of travel before they bottom out. This was measured on the passengers side.
 
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OME recommends 1" bumps for the rear so the track bar relocation bracket will not hit the tub at stuff and damage the wiring harness going to the fuel pump. Are you running Rancho RS55241's in the rear?
 
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Years ago when I had the old OME shocks (and a rear track bar) I had exactly 1" of rear bump stop to protect the shocks. With a 1" body lift, there was plenty of room for the relocation bracket.
 
jjvw said:
Years ago when I had the old OME shocks (and a rear track bar) I had exactly 1" of rear bump stop to protect the shocks. With a 1" body lift, there was plenty of room for the relocation bracket.
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It does appear that a 1" body lift will be the best option and solve the problems. I figure I might as well also add an adjustable track bar.
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06lj said:
It does appear that a 1" body lift will be the best option and solve the problems. I figure I might as well also add an adjustable track bar.
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1.25” BL from savvy is a great choice and I run it as well as many others. Stick to the strong advice to use an aluminum spacer (non compressible) instead of poly. Savvy designs theirs to have a lip that captures the oem body mount and keeps everything in check - plus they actually know how long the bolts should be so it doesn’t punch through the tub like @jjvw saw with a different brand before switching to savvy. If the rear crack bothers you there are bumpers that can hide it, I run a Hanson full width and it adjusts up to cover it entirely.
 
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