Rear track bar issues

Joined
Aug 30, 2022
Messages
76
Location
Texas
99 tj ax15 4.0.
So far ive done a zone 4" lift. 1.25" body lift. Mml and have raised the tcase nearly to a flat belly. Did a jb super extreme short sye. Have a double cv shaft and had drive line shudders so i ordered and installed core tier 2 adjustable rear upper control arms to get the rear drive line adjusted. Current the drive shaft angle is 24⁰ the pinion angle is 19⁰. As i lift the pinion i end up lifting the jeep. The rear tracbar is hitting the gastake skid it appears. What is a acceptable angle discrepancy between the pinion and driveshaft? Do i now need adjustable lower arms? The zone kit came with a tracbar relocation bracket which is installed as well as slotting the rear upper arm mounts with the cam plates (guessing thats what you would call them. Its almost as if my lower arms are too long. Any insight to resolve this or what habe others done?

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This is the tracbar relocation bracket from the kit. It appears to be like all the other ones ive seen

View attachment 377737

That is a straight bracket you are going to need an angled one to work with the double cardan. Also if your lift came with longer than stock lower control arms you may want to put the stock ones back on rear for the time being.
 
Yeah, they gave the short answer. You need an Angled track bar bracket so that when the axle rotates up to point at the back of the transfer case, you keep the track bar in the same relationship.

It’s not ideal to just get upper or lower adjustable, budget May dictate that, but it’s only really correct if you get both to angle the axle.

Unless of course you find a fixed set that is exactly the right length, highly unlikely to do On any kind of budget.
 
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Yeah, they gave the short answer. You need an Angled track bar bracket so that when the axle rotates up to point at the back of the transfer case, you keep the track bar in the same relationship.

It’s not ideal to just get upper or lower adjustable, budget May dictate that, but it’s only really correct if you get both to angle the axle.

Unless of course you find a fixed set that is exactly the right length, highly unlikely to do On any kind of

Yeah, they gave the short answer. You need an Angled track bar bracket so that when the axle rotates up to point at the back of the transfer case, you keep the track bar in the same relationship.

It’s not ideal to just get upper or lower adjustable, budget May dictate that, but it’s only really correct if you get both to angle the axle.

Unless of course you find a fixed set that is exactly the right length, highly unlikely to do On any kind of budget.

Appreciate the input. My original goal was to go to 4" and have some seat time as i gathered and built better axles. Nothing goes as planned with a jeep build....i should have known better
 
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Appreciate the input. My original goal was to go to 4" and have some seat time as i gathered and built better axles. Nothing goes as planned with a jeep build....i should have known better

HAAAAA!

Laughing WITH you!

No, every project I’ve started, initiated a chain reaction.

4” is about max lift for a TJ suspension.

I’m surprised you’re not seeing bad steering from the lack of caster in the front
 
HAAAAA!

Laughing WITH you!

No, every project I’ve started, initiated a chain reaction.

4” is about max lift for a TJ suspension.

I’m surprised you’re not seeing bad steering from the lack of caster in the front
Well i picked up the jeep end of august probably drove it less that 70 miles. Did a 4" zone lift. Didnt want to do the tcase drop and kinda figured the driveline would be a issue. It was. Kinda figured that. Researched a bit seemed as if the uppers were the way to go well.... i dont plan to leave it with stock axles and anythong control arm wise is essentially temporary till i build the superduty axles in a truck im parting out so ive been trying to keep a somewhat slim budget with decent parts.... the list of mandatory things keeps growing to make it drivable in the interim. Biggest issue is the buy once cry once crowd... most of these parts wont be on this jeep next year and id wager ill have less that 10k worth of miles before its torn apart again
 
I have no idea how its will drive as of yet ive made it around the block about 4 times amd returned because of driveline binding and not having to drive it yet
 
I have no idea how its will drive as of yet ive made it around the block about 4 times amd returned because of driveline binding and not having to drive it yet
At 4” lift you need to dial the pinion angle in for it to drive right. It’s hard to save much in this department.
 
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I get you. In That case, I hear you on the cheaper arms and maybe looked Facebook marketplace to find some since they are short lived

There are some rubicon express ones about 300 miles away but considering diesel costs it kinda kills the deal. Not much to be found unless you have a jk currently
 
At 4” lift you need to dial the pinion angle in for it to drive right. It’s hard to save much in this department.

I understand that. With what i currently have im out of room from what i can tell. With the upper control arms removed and a jack under the pinion the jeep is getting lifted off the ground and the axle is no longer rotating to line up the pinion angle. The rear trackbar is up against the gastank skid stopping movement. It has been suggested this is due to the extended length of the lower arms in the kit as well as possibly a incorrect tracbar relocation bracket. Ive read some have had varying success with brackets and some have had to fabricate new mounts or relocate brackets. Im not quite to that point unless i have to. I have a set of stock axles i need to go thru with 4.56 gears supposedly which i had planned to put in next so if i need to weld and mod brackets those will get put into the que
 
So finally got a new rear jks tracbar relocation bracket, stock tracbar would not work without some serious twisting the bar so that got replaced by a jks rear trabar which literally fell into place. Got everything tightend up drove around a bit then all of a sudden deathwobble entered the chat......
You know i forgot just how exciting that is at about 30 mph. Next is to replace the upper and lower links with adjustables. I have a Dana 30 with 4.56 gears, new balljoints, and axle side bushings. That with the new tracbar, and new moog zj parts should both replace work 200k components. Possibly cure the death wobble but given my success rate im not holding my breath.
 
Don’t forget to get your tires balanced as well. That should help alleviate some if not all of your death wobble problems.