Rear trackbar question(s)

BobK

TJ Enthusiast
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I have completed 50% of my suspension lift on my 2003 TJ. The front is done and all hardware has been removed from the rear except the trackbar. Both the frame and axle side bolts have been loosened, but I just realized this evening while planning my installation day tomorrow, that the axle side Torx bolt is longer than the space between the bracket and the gas tank skid plate to be removed. So my first question is:

1) How do I go about getting that damn Torx headed bolt out. Since it seems that I have to reuse it on the new adjustable trackbar, would anything be damaged if (assuming I can get it removed) if I inserted it from the other side when mounting the new track bar? (might be a dumb question since I haven't actually looked at the other side of the bracket yet)

2) I will have completed a 2" suspension lift (Rock Krawler) and a 1" body lift, the suspension lift kit came with a trackbar relocation bracket. Is that really necessary for a 2" lift? Since I haven't yet read through the instructions, does that mount go on the frame side of the installation?

Thanks in advance.

Bob


PS. I just read that the bracket goes on the axel side
 
Thank you.

the "kit" came with the relocation bracket, but I read somewhere (can't find it now) that it may not be necessary with just a 2" lift. Then I read somewhere else that it was needed to correct the geometry given the lift. Thoughts?
 
Do you have access to a laser level? On my Jeep, I dropped plum bobs from the center of the front and rear bumpers, aligned the laser on the strings. I measured the distance from the laser light to the inner edges of my rims to see how far the axle was off. With a 3" lift, I installed an adjustable front track bar to center the axle, and on the rear, I used the supplied relocation bracket. My rear axle is less than 1/4" off center. The laser I use is a Craftsman brand that I bought years ago for, maybe, $40.
 
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A 2" suspension lift doesn't shift the axles more than 1/2-3/4" or so.

And some track bar relocation brackets are designed for specific lift heights so they tend to get the axle centered better.

Here's why suspension lifts pull the axles off to the side... take a look at the letter Z. The top horizontal line is the Jeep frame, the bottom line is the axle, the diagonal line is the track bar. Push the top line up via a suspension lift and the diagonal line (track bar) will pull the bottom line (axle) to the side. A track bar relocation bracket just relocates the bottom track bar's mounting point over a bit to center the axle.

The shorter the suspension lift the less the axle is pulled to the side and visa-versa.
 
A 2" suspension lift doesn't shift the axles more than 1/2-3/4" or so.

And some track bar relocation brackets are designed for specific lift heights so they tend to get the axle centered better.

Here's why suspension lifts pull the axles off to the side... take a look at the letter Z. The top horizontal line is the Jeep frame, the bottom line is the axle, the diagonal line is the track bar. Push the top line up via a suspension lift and the diagonal line (track bar) will pull the bottom line (axle) to the side. A track bar relocation bracket just relocates the bottom track bar's mounting point over a bit to center the axle.

The shorter the suspension lift the less the axle is pulled to the side and visa-versa.

Make perfect sense. I'll let you all know how the install and measurement of movement goes tomorrow.

i was able to finesse the Torx bolt out with a bit of effort earlier this evening after thinking about it. The working plan is to use the relocation bracket and see if the new adjustable track bar clears everything. Once the suspension is lifted.
 
Today, I mounted all the rear suspension components (upper and lower adjustable control arms, sway bar and end links, coils, and shocks) - just finger tight at this point. I attempted to add an adjustable rear track bar, but for some reason it does not fit, its bends are not in sync with the exhaust and/or fuel tank. As a result, I ended up installing the trackbar relocation bracket that was part of the Rock Krawler kit I purchased. The adjustable trackbar was still no bueno, so I ended up reinstalling the factory trackbar and it fit perfectly.

The question is this, with a 2" lift (coils and shocks) and a relocation bracket, is an adjustable track bar needed? I guess tomorrow after I tighten everything and get it torqued, I'll find out if the axle is centered or not. So my question is just a general one, do you think I'll need an adjustable trackbar?
 
A 2" relocation bracket with a 2" lift should put the track bar back into the stock position.
 
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Today, I mounted all the rear suspension components (upper and lower adjustable control arms, sway bar and end links, coils, and shocks) - just finger tight at this point. I attempted to add an adjustable rear track bar, but for some reason it does not fit, its bends are not in sync with the exhaust and/or fuel tank. As a result, I ended up installing the trackbar relocation bracket that was part of the Rock Krawler kit I purchased. The adjustable trackbar was still no bueno, so I ended up reinstalling the factory trackbar and it fit perfectly.

The question is this, with a 2" lift (coils and shocks) and a relocation bracket, is an adjustable track bar needed? I guess tomorrow after I tighten everything and get it torqued, I'll find out if the axle is centered or not. So my question is just a general one, do you think I'll need an adjustable trackbar?
There are angled and non-angled track bar relocation brackets. You need the non-angled type. When you don't have an aftermarket SYE kit and CV driveshaft installed, which puts the track bar mount at an angle, you want a straight non-angled track bar relocation bracket. Angled relocation brackets have an angled added to them to counteract the track bar mounting bracket angle created after installing a CV driveshaft which requires the pinion angle to be raised which also steepens the axle's track bar mount angle.

So if you tried to install an angled track bar relocation bracket with the factory rear driveshaft, its angle won't match the angle of the factory track bar. You need a straight non-angled track bar relocation bracket for your setup.
 
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Jerry, thanks for the info. My relocation bracket is straight and the factory track bar seems fit in it perfectly on the axle side and the trackbar fits perfectly on the frame side too.

The part I'm confused about won't be apparent until I tighten everything up and measure if my axle is centered. I was assuming that I needed both the relo bracket and an adjustable trackbar.
 
Jerry, thanks for the info. My relocation bracket is straight and the factory track bar seems fit in it perfectly on the axle side and the trackbar fits perfectly on the frame side too.

I ran the straight bracket with the OEM track bar just fine (on a 2.5" OME lift), that shift up a few inches typically compensates for the suspension change. Just be sure to check your bump stops so the bracket + TB don't interfere with your fuel lines.

The part I'm confused about won't be apparent until I tighten everything up and measure if my axle is centered. I was assuming that I needed both the relo bracket and an adjustable trackbar.

I ended up buying an adjustable track bar and dropping the bracket entirely. A few trips later and that has proven to work just fine with no binding (also - be sure to cycle the suspension in a more static environment). I had the straight OME bracket that was on there a weekend with the OEM track bar, then dropped to an adjustable with no bracket (and have the angled bracket in my cabinet for a rotated pinion with a CV drive shaft post tummy tuck).
 
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I think most with the $$ and inclination would prefer an adjustable track bar, simply for its adjustability. The bracket with the oem track bar will accomplish the same end result, more or less, with a 2" lift. When I did my lift, I preferred an adjustable track bar over the contortions required to mount that bracket, but that's just me.
 
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Resurrecting this thread. Question for the OP, how did you get a socket on the torx bolt? I'm running into the same issue. I have the Jeep jacked up and on stands on the frame. The rear axle is hanging as far down as it will go and I still can't clear the tank. Did you go ahead and remove the shocks first? The instructions with my lift say to remove the track bar first then everything else. Thanks!
 
That bolt had me swearing more than almost every bolt I've fought with. In the end, the only way I was able to remove it was to loosen, but not remove, the gas tank skid plate and the gas tank itself. Once it was able to be maneuvered a bit, I was able to get a torx socket on it and remove it.

I hope that helps. Don't give up, but it is doable even though it appears impossible. In truth, it is only right next to impossible, but not impossible.
 
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Resurrecting this thread. Question for the OP, how did you get a socket on the torx bolt? I'm running into the same issue. I have the Jeep jacked up and on stands on the frame. The rear axle is hanging as far down as it will go and I still can't clear the tank. Did you go ahead and remove the shocks first? The instructions with my lift say to remove the track bar first then everything else. Thanks!
Go ahead and remove the shocks. On a properly set up suspension, shocks are what limit downtravel. If that still doesn't help, try unbolting the trackbar at the frame side.

If you have to drop it really far you may also want to disconnect the driveshaft (easy - four 8mm bolts)
 
Stubby T55
T55 Sockets.JPG
 
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Is the rear relocation bracket necessary on a 2-2.5” lift or can I get by with putting my stock trac bar back in the stock location
 
Is the rear relocation bracket necessary on a 2-2.5” lift or can I get by with putting my stock trac bar back in the stock location

I ran that way for a few weeks. It shifts the axle over towards the passenger side about 3/4 inch. Which can, and did in my case, cause some vibes since it puts a bit more angle on your driveshaft. I got an adjustable track bar to fix it, but the bracket is the cheapest option.