Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Rear wheel bearing seals on a Dana 35

JoeSpit

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Dec 9, 2020
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island of maui
Hey gang i have changed out both sides of my rear bearings about 3 years ago. My driver side started making a noise so went to replace it. When i did it before the auto parts store gave me seals that looked like this:

dan46485_04.webp


This time however they gave me one that looked like this:

Screenshot 2024-12-23 101715.png



it seemed to fit the same but now i am getting a worse griding noise that before i fixed it.

This is the wrong part, right?

when i changed out the broken one there was a good amount of shavings in the axel shaft tube. i cleaned most of it out with a magnet, but maybe there is still some and thats what i am hearing?

also that axel shaft was a bitch to depress to remove the c clamp dealie? maybe too much debris in there?

i want to lean towards wrong part because i have done this before with no issue, but the orileys said they mustve changed the look to manufacture cheaper.

anyone use these smoother more cylindrical seals before or is the lipped coke can like one the only way to go?
 
Axle seals have nothing to do with a "grinding sound" You obviously pulled the diff cover and what did you get out of it in the way of lube? greyish metalicaly oil? The shavings in the tubes are from a demo'ed R&P, bearings or both. Far as the center pin and spiders if you pulled the retainer and pin you should be able to easily slide either axle inward to remove the C clip. Sounds like the 35 is done IMO. Far as the seals go, yeah, both types are sold. Just make sure they are put in similar to how far in the others are where the seal lip rides. Check the axles for groves where the seal lip rides as the axles may be suckage as well.
 
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here is my r&p and some spiders. looks okay to me but maybe a lil shinier than i remember before.
IMG_6868.jpeg

IMG_6869.jpeg


and then here is the driver side seal . new and suspect

IMG_6867.jpeg


and the old one passenger side (not messed up?)

IMG_6872.jpeg



tho i guess they both have a lil drip action,

yeah when i had to slide driver side axle in, i had to use a sledge.
 
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i wasnt getting the grinding noise constantly, but would defiantly notice it more decelerating.
how can i test if the noise is my r&p? if i throw it in neutral as i coast will that keep the pinon from spinning?
 
Axle seals have nothing to do with a "grinding sound" You obviously pulled the diff cover and what did you get out of it in the way of lube? greyish metalicaly oil? The shavings in the tubes are from a demo'ed R&P, bearings or both. Far as the center pin and spiders if you pulled the retainer and pin you should be able to easily slide either axle inward to remove the C clip. Sounds like the 35 is done IMO. Far as the seals go, yeah, both types are sold. Just make sure they are put in similar to how far in the others are where the seal lip rides. Check the axles for groves where the seal lip rides as the axles may be suckage as well.

also the oil was dark/almost black but to my surprise not glittery, maybe a few specs but very little considering. but when i sent the magnet through, it was only the driverside axle tube that had a few magnet scrapes worth of ore like shavings
 
ALSOO when i took out the original bearing and seal; the seal was torn, the bearing was mostly intact but the retainer spring on both sides was out of wack. there was more play between the roller bearings than a new one but not enough to seem as if it was missing a bearing
 
Upon closer inspection, i appear to be wearing loafers


So my spider gears have a few teeth that are chewed up real good. again the worst of the chewing seems to be on that driver side. I did notice i had to replace some lug bolts/nuts on the axel. perhaps wobble from a few bad bolts caused all that fuckery?

... nevermind the guy that must've bolted them badly, i already know i'm the main problem with my jeep

its gonna take like 2 weeks for them to ship out here, so a few new questions:

1) how bad is it to minimally drive to and fro work until new parts arrive?

2) could/should i pressure wash out the inside of the axle housing and then spraying down in brake clean so water doesnt do water things?

3) clandestinely procure neighbors dana 44 at night?
 
final update: I cleaned everything and put it back together as i await new spider gears, just for heck sake i went for a test drive (to get some beer) and no noise!

its a christmas miracle!

guess i still had some shavings and 3 gear oil changes later mustve flushed it out.

still will replace spider gears....eventually, when i hear something grinding chances are. But thats a problem for future me, n screw that guy, he thinks hes a real big shot because hes from the future
 
I wouldn't be afraid to drive with the nackered spiders. 2 weeks delivery? why? try Rockauto as spider kits are $100 or so and should be in hand in a few days after ordering. Only other comment is the depth of the axle seals in the picture. Also Ive heard of guys knocking the seal spring off or out of wack when installing them and beating on them excessively.
 
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i live on maui. shipping always takes longer than they says.

Hmm to install said bearings and seals i use a combo of a socket of similar circumference or the orileys rental puller/slide hammer but in reverse. so maybe i'm too rough on these cheap orileys parts but hey 3 year warranty!
 
I would avoid driving the Jeep if possible.
If the carrier bearings or pinion bearing overheat due to the metal particles in the gear lube; you will be looking at a really expensive repairs. R&P, Carrier and possibly even the Dana 35 housing.
 
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I would avoid driving the Jeep if possible.
If the carrier bearings or pinion bearing overheat due to the metal particles in the gear lube; you will be looking at a really expensive repairs. R&P, Carrier and possibly even the Dana 35 housing.

yeah i should probably replace all the bearings and do a rebuild, but i'd need a big ol press to do it, right?

i was thinking to do another flush and put a few magnets in the housing to try and collect whatever else. i'm sure i wont improperly adhere it to the cover and get the magnet all ground up in there.

i'm also just fine coming to terms with seeing how durable these tj's are.

ARE THEY REALLY IDIOT PROOF?

dont worry... this idiot is gonna get to the (hopefully not fiery inferno) bottom of it
 
yeah i should probably replace all the bearings and do a rebuild, but i'd need a big ol press to do it, right?

i was thinking to do another flush and put a few magnets in the housing to try and collect whatever else. i'm sure i wont improperly adhere it to the cover and get the magnet all ground up in there.

i'm also just fine coming to terms with seeing how durable these tj's are.

ARE THEY REALLY IDIOT PROOF?

dont worry... this idiot is gonna get to the (hopefully not fiery inferno) bottom of it

A press would be easiest, but I have seen guys use other tools to remove and install bearings.
IF you don’t have any experience with rebuilding; I would find someone that does.
 
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Bearing races can sometimes be scored or cut partially and then popped open with a cold steel chisel. I had a B of a time getting the axle bearings out of the housing on my 99. The puller/slide hammer trick didnt work. Idiot proof? Not a lot to them really and one can usually use the same shims that were in the carrier on the new set up. You will also get a new shim pack with the new bearing set. Give it a shot, its better than using a damn ferd explorer to "upgrade" your TJ. :p
 
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aight i might as well try and do carrier bearings with my trusty sledge and equal circumference socket when i get the spiders and magnets in. been driving on it for a weeks now, and may have felt more vibration in the floor boards, Granted though my weed guy also gave me some hashiish this week so maybe i'm just more sensitive
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator