Had a rear wheel stud that was all buggered up on my 99TJ and I want to share what I did to replace it as it was incredibly easy.
I read about others pounding out the old stud with a hammer and using washers and a nut to pull the wheel stud in. Everything I remember being told was that you should never hammer a wheel stud out as it can mess up the bearings or deform the hole for the wheel stud. Additionally, I was told never use a nut with washers to pull it back in because you can mess up the threads on the new wheel stud.
So I opted to press out the stud and press in a new one.
I purchased a ball joint press from Amazon. OEM Tools p/n 27308 for $22 (inc. tax). The reason I bought this one is that the fork opening is 7/8" and the wheel stud head is .810". So this one will fit on the hub without interfering with the stud being pressed out the back. A large ball joint press will not work as there is not enough room for the cup on the backside of the hub.
The OEM press has 2 settings. To press out the stud, use the larger opening setting. After a few days of spraying with PB Blaster, I put the OEM Tools ball joint press on and I turned the ratchet about 4-5 full revolutions. The stud literally flew out of the hole. This was surprising to me as I expected it to slowly move back out of the hole. SO WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
To press the new stud in, I first used washers and a 1/2-20 nut just the seat the new wheel stud. As soon as started to get tight., I removed the nut and washers, set the ball joint press to the smaller opening size and flipped it over and pressed the new stud the rest of the way.
Note my pictures have the brake shoes and components removed but you can easily do this with all of the brake parts in place. Took about 20 minutes from the time I put the press on to the time I was finished.
I read about others pounding out the old stud with a hammer and using washers and a nut to pull the wheel stud in. Everything I remember being told was that you should never hammer a wheel stud out as it can mess up the bearings or deform the hole for the wheel stud. Additionally, I was told never use a nut with washers to pull it back in because you can mess up the threads on the new wheel stud.
So I opted to press out the stud and press in a new one.
I purchased a ball joint press from Amazon. OEM Tools p/n 27308 for $22 (inc. tax). The reason I bought this one is that the fork opening is 7/8" and the wheel stud head is .810". So this one will fit on the hub without interfering with the stud being pressed out the back. A large ball joint press will not work as there is not enough room for the cup on the backside of the hub.
The OEM press has 2 settings. To press out the stud, use the larger opening setting. After a few days of spraying with PB Blaster, I put the OEM Tools ball joint press on and I turned the ratchet about 4-5 full revolutions. The stud literally flew out of the hole. This was surprising to me as I expected it to slowly move back out of the hole. SO WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
To press the new stud in, I first used washers and a 1/2-20 nut just the seat the new wheel stud. As soon as started to get tight., I removed the nut and washers, set the ball joint press to the smaller opening size and flipped it over and pressed the new stud the rest of the way.
Note my pictures have the brake shoes and components removed but you can easily do this with all of the brake parts in place. Took about 20 minutes from the time I put the press on to the time I was finished.
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