Rebuilding my 32RH transmission (fully successfully)
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OP
Jeep sat in the garage for a week while we were in the Smokies. Came back home and found either (a) it's still leaking OR (b) I parked right over a piece of cardboard that was previously soaked with transmission fluid. Unfortunately I don't know which just yet. I put a clean bucket under it and ran it (started right up, so my prior dead battery issues were almost certainly related to leaving the key ON). Checked the level, and it was more or less where I left it, which was about 1cm short of the full line, although it shifted through the gears w/o any delay. Gonna top it off, give that cable another adjustment, and then take it out in this ridiculous heat.
......and then put my bucket back underneath it and pray its dry in the morning.
......and then put my bucket back underneath it and pray its dry in the morning.
OP
In the meanwhile, the owner of the XJ came over and got that damn enormous internal snap ring out and I was able to immediately resolve the clearance issue with the output shaft. Unfortunately I accidentally broke the oil sealing ring on the output shaft and the replacement won't be here till later this week, so I'm basically still stopped down.
Do you think I can get that part from a local transmission shop? I realize they probably don't sell a lot of parts, but maybe they have some on hand... I read somewhere that trans shops are sometimes willing to sell you parts to do the job with the notion of there being a 95% chance you're going to screw it up and end up bringing it back to them anyway.
Do you think I can get that part from a local transmission shop? I realize they probably don't sell a lot of parts, but maybe they have some on hand... I read somewhere that trans shops are sometimes willing to sell you parts to do the job with the notion of there being a 95% chance you're going to screw it up and end up bringing it back to them anyway.
OP
Still shifting too soon, although it does kickdown/downshift after the new TV cable. It feels like its adjusted properly, but I guess I'll put it in another click.
I feel like it's running hotter than it used to as well. Granted I'm probably still a little low on fluid, and it's ballz hot out there, but it gets to 180 quicker than it used to. My errands didn't allow for much driving beyond that point, but it got over 200 just cruising during one of the initial test drives. It's been 100+ here which obviously could be a factor, but it normally never gets over 200 unless it's hot and I'm really working to crawl over something. I have my trans cooler in place, but I'm waiting to plumb it in until I get all my other issues sorted.
I feel like it's running hotter than it used to as well. Granted I'm probably still a little low on fluid, and it's ballz hot out there, but it gets to 180 quicker than it used to. My errands didn't allow for much driving beyond that point, but it got over 200 just cruising during one of the initial test drives. It's been 100+ here which obviously could be a factor, but it normally never gets over 200 unless it's hot and I'm really working to crawl over something. I have my trans cooler in place, but I'm waiting to plumb it in until I get all my other issues sorted.
OP
Ok - is there any way there is a correlation between the TV cable adjustment and the trans running hot? When I pulled into the garage after a 15 minute drive it got to 220. I’ve seen it that hot *one* time before, so it’s definitely got my attention.
OP
ok, I can rebuild a transmission but I'm too stupid to work the TV cable. If I need the transmission to shift later, I need it to think I'm giving it more throttle. So which direction do I need to move the cable*, and when we say "move the cable" do we mean the black sheath around the cable, or do we mean the actual steel braided cable?
* please use terms that an absolute idiot can understand. Something like "relative to that picture you quoted, the cable needs to be shifted right" or whatever.
Ok so here is a little diagram. If you look on the end of the cable housing there should be a little nose cone (red line points to this nose cone). As you move the cable in and out this nose cone moves closer to the throttle body when pushed in and away when pulled out. Use the distance the nose cone is sticking out as a reference point (space between green lines) when making adjustments so you can keep track easier. As you move the nose cone (cable housing) towards the throttle body (blue arrow) your shifts will be sooner and it will take more throttle to get a kickdown. If you move the nose cone away from the throttle body your transmission will hold gears longer and it will take less throttle input to initiate a kickdown.
OP
Thanks, that's the idiot proof sort of thing I was looking for.
I've basically got it in the orange direction about as far as it will go. It seems backwards to me, though. Seems like I need to pull it in the blue direction, which will pull on the lever at the transmission thereby making the trans think I'm giving it more throttle. Maybe I'm stupid though. It's highly likely.
I've basically got it in the orange direction about as far as it will go. It seems backwards to me, though. Seems like I need to pull it in the blue direction, which will pull on the lever at the transmission thereby making the trans think I'm giving it more throttle. Maybe I'm stupid though. It's highly likely.
Think about it from the transmissions point of view. The more you pull the cable the more you open the transmission valve. If there is more cable exposed the transmission is seeing that as more input. (Ie. As you press on the accelerator the tv cable pulls out from the transmission. ) Pulling the housing/nose-cone away from the throttle body is the same as pulling the cable towards the throttle body.
Did you start with the FSM way of setting the TV?
OP
Yeah, and that feels like it's the opposite of what you've got labeled in your picture.
yes, I think, but this step isn't super clear:
(6) Center cable end on attachment stud to within 1 m m (0.039 in .).
at various points along this adventure I have had a helper verify that the moment the lever at the throttle body moves, the lever at the transmission also moves. But that particular setup doesn't have things shifting right. If I really get into the pedal I can delay the shifts, but it still shifts sooner than it used to.
Maybe I have something hooked up wrong at the trans? Hopefully I didn't screw up that part of the valve body assembly. The section that controls the throttle pressure was the trickiest to put back together.
Here's another way to put it. The more of the metal braded cable you can see the LATER the transmission will shift and sonner it will downshift. I will make a quick video for you on how I adjustment mine. Give me a couple hrs.
There is an adjustment that needs to be made on the assembly that holds the actual throttle valve in place.
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Also did you remove or turn either one of these when you worked on the valve body?
(Throttle pressure adjusting screw and line pressure adjusting screw)
(Throttle pressure adjusting screw and line pressure adjusting screw)
OP
I didn't turn either of those screws. The line pressure adjusting screw is threaded into a rectangular piece, and it comes out as a unit. The throttle pressure adjusting screw is part of that adjusting screw bracket with does need to come off to get at those valves. I took off the bracket but I was intentional about not turning those screws. I did have to re-assumble that section a couple of times as it takes a little coordination to get everything where it needs to be. I specifically remember putting it all back together once and discovering that the tab thing that your red arrow is over needs to be inside the the flange on the throttle pressure screw.
Per your video, I have the cable pulled as far as it will go "to the passenger side," that is to say I have maximum steel cable showing. I have a small window where I can give it a test run, will report back. Thanks for the continued help.
OP
It shifts better now. Still goes into 2nd a shade early and 3rd sooner than it used to under my normal driving style. If I really get into the gas 1st will hold to like 3500 rpm or there about, and it'll go into 3rd around 40ish mph. That part feels ok. Kickdown seems to work ok, but going around corners it doesn't seem to want to move down into 2nd unless I give it a little extra gas. This part is hard because you're trying to remember how it used to work, but the only time you really started paying attention was after it broke. So who knows. I feel like if I could adjust it just a little further it might be close to right.
I did add a quart to get it into the "ok" range on the dipstick, although that spot is relative to how deep you shove the dipstick tube into the trans housing and that particular item has been problematic for me, so I don't guess I really know where the level is actually at. Shifts had been a little hard, maybe slightly better now, but hard to say for sure. It shifts right away though, even starting in Park and going directly to R w/o idling in Neutral first.
I didn't drive it long enough to learn anything about the temperature, but I'm definitely still concerned about that. My XJ buddy, in true XJ fashion says "you're only worried about that because you have that gauge right? If you didn't have the gauge you'd think everything was fine." I can think of three factors that could be affecting things (other than the fact that a total hack overhauled the thing: (1) it's frigging hot outside, 102F. Last summer we barely had 100's and I didn't have the gauge yet [XJ friend proven right again] (2) I have a trans cooler installed in front of the radiator but not plumbed in yet. It's possible(?) that it's blocking some airflow, although the engine seems to be right at 210 as always. (3) Was a little low on fluid when it hit 220 yesterday, and less fluid means less cooling capacity, so higher temps.
I did add a quart to get it into the "ok" range on the dipstick, although that spot is relative to how deep you shove the dipstick tube into the trans housing and that particular item has been problematic for me, so I don't guess I really know where the level is actually at. Shifts had been a little hard, maybe slightly better now, but hard to say for sure. It shifts right away though, even starting in Park and going directly to R w/o idling in Neutral first.
I didn't drive it long enough to learn anything about the temperature, but I'm definitely still concerned about that. My XJ buddy, in true XJ fashion says "you're only worried about that because you have that gauge right? If you didn't have the gauge you'd think everything was fine." I can think of three factors that could be affecting things (other than the fact that a total hack overhauled the thing: (1) it's frigging hot outside, 102F. Last summer we barely had 100's and I didn't have the gauge yet [XJ friend proven right again] (2) I have a trans cooler installed in front of the radiator but not plumbed in yet. It's possible(?) that it's blocking some airflow, although the engine seems to be right at 210 as always. (3) Was a little low on fluid when it hit 220 yesterday, and less fluid means less cooling capacity, so higher temps.
Sorry, I can't help you with your transmission issues, but all your anecdotes about your XJ buddy ring SO FRICKEN TRUE! I have an XJ buddy too and he's exactly the same. I told him I was going to quit wheeling with him if he didn't start doing proper underhood wire splices instead of using fuckin wire nuts.
OP
They’re good dudes to have around because they’re never afraid to touch a hot exhaust and there’s no amount of contortioning they won’t do to get at some hidden bolt. And every time I’ve dropped this dumb transmission he’s been the guy under the jeep doing 85% of the labor.
But geez don’t let them touch wiring or any sort of preventative maintenance.
The worst part is that his XJ tendencies have spread to his WK and his CJ too. He caught his WK (with the 3.8 V6) on fire towing his 28 foot camper. I’ll pause to let that sink in
The CJ isn’t really his fault. It was kinda messed up when he got it. He also hasn’t done much too unfuck it either. He did finally take it to a shop for a dyno tune, but the wiring is still garbage, every bushing, bearing, and TRE is loose, etc, etc, etc