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Receiver hitch pin distance survey

Blackjack

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A better visual of the problem. There is no way that I can envision where a decent side pull won't ruin this receiver and or the insert.

View attachment 362314

That is pure crap. It is bad enough when Warn made their bumper 1.5 inch when their own receiver shackle bracket was designed for 2.5 inch. And we know full well someone will use the Warn’s receiver shackle with that bumper.

EB0DF744-C866-4E29-BE65-ACD4D1A4FAA1.jpeg
 
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DrDmoney

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I'd pay a decent amount to see the look on the face of the owner of Brennan's Garage with his insert in that hitch all pinned up. There'd be some new warnings and what not posted up after that.
Apparently they consider the 2-5/8” to be the more common pin depth as that’s the only one currently available. That’s about a 4:1 lever in that hitch receiver, what could go wrong?
 
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mrblaine

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There’s probably a side loading disclaimer on that giant sash weight.

I've never seen it if there is. The typical warning is for damage to the appliance, not what it is being used in. I don't know that there are actually many discussions about what can happen to the receiver and until this one, it had never dawned on me that .75" depths existed.
 
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freedom_in_4low

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While annoying, it makes perfect sense in TJ context.

Everybody with a TJ wants a bumper that at least looks like it would maintain a good departure angle, so they won't buy one with a receiver tube hanging out 4". Manufacturer buries it, but there's no access inside or in front of the bumper for the pin so they put the hole on the outside, pin depth be damned.

I only have a 2.5" depth on mine because I have an LJ with a high clearance bumper and I could put the pin between the crossmembers. I'm not gonna be using mine for recovery though, even with 3/16" steel it's too bendy for my tastes with only 3 sides of a box...bike rack or hitch carriers only.
 

rasband

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While annoying, it makes perfect sense in TJ context.

Everybody with a TJ wants a bumper that at least looks like it would maintain a good departure angle, so they won't buy one with a receiver tube hanging out 4". Manufacturer buries it, but there's no access inside or in front of the bumper for the pin so they put the hole on the outside, pin depth be damned.

I only have a 2.5" depth on mine because I have an LJ with a high clearance bumper and I could put the pin between the crossmembers. I'm not gonna be using mine for recovery though, even with 3/16" steel it's too bendy for my tastes with only 3 sides of a box...bike rack or hitch carriers only.

The LJ certainly helps us a bit. Have you seen the couple guys that also bolt the end of the receiver to our extra crossmember? I didn't think about that while doing mine, but intend to fix that oversight eventually.
 

freedom_in_4low

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The LJ certainly helps us a bit. Have you seen the couple guys that also bolt the end of the receiver to our extra crossmember? I didn't think about that while doing mine, but intend to fix that oversight eventually.

I haven't seen any but I am poking around. I've got some ideas but I'd like to see what's out there before I start cutting.
 
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mrblaine

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The LJ certainly helps us a bit. Have you seen the couple guys that also bolt the end of the receiver to our extra crossmember? I didn't think about that while doing mine, but intend to fix that oversight eventually.

I've always bolted the end of the receiver tube to the other crossmember when I do a Swag style rear plate. I also set the rear edge at near flush with a 2" pin depth that you access between the two.

I didn't do the bolt up for pull out strength but more for rotation up or down of the rear face. Stick a hitch in to move a Jeep trailer around the storage yard and the leverage will try to rotate the inboard end up with a lot of force.
 

rasband

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I've always bolted the end of the receiver tube to the other crossmember when I do a Swag style rear plate. I also set the rear edge at near flush with a 2" pin depth that you access between the two.

I didn't do the bolt up for pull out strength but more for rotation up or down of the rear face. Stick a hitch in to move a Jeep trailer around the storage yard and the leverage will try to rotate the inboard end up with a lot of force.

I use mine mostly for a bike rack and found it pretty bouncy until I put angle iron on opposite corners on the gas tank crossmember around the receiver tube. I know better now though.

Would you yank on yours if you needed to, or is that not advisable?
 

freedom_in_4low

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I didn't do the bolt up for pull out strength but more for rotation up or down of the rear face. Stick a hitch in to move a Jeep trailer around the storage yard and the leverage will try to rotate the inboard end up with a lot of force.

Same. Once I had it mounted I stuck a pry bar in it and was alarmed at how much twist I could make just with my own weight and the mental picture of my hitch carrier or a bike rack was not pretty.

Still haven't gotten around to actually tying it in because I haven't had occasion to use it and am still not sure when I will. It'll probably be tacked on to a winter project when I pull the tank for a new sending unit and the overflow fix.
 
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mrblaine

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I use mine mostly for a bike rack and found it pretty bouncy until I put angle iron on opposite corners on the gas tank crossmember around the receiver tube. I know better now though.
I often wonder why folks don't attribute the full level of evil that a bike rack is appropriately. Maybe it is due to being confused about the height and how close that is to the hitch or what, I don't know but I do know if you take a long lever with 40-50 lbs. on it at the longest part of the lever, that is an astounding amount of force once the dynamic movement kicks in. That back and forth will destroy stuff in a hurry.
Would you yank on yours if you needed to, or is that not advisable?
I don't really know that answer. I would do moderate stuff, I would not do what I did to the Suburban with the stock rig and receiver hitch to get it unstuck.