Recommend Grease for Currie Johnny Joints?

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I am getting ready to start the overdue process of inspecting/cleaning/rebuilding all 8 of my control arms, 7 Currie, 1 Rokmen, with Johnny joints.

I installed them about 7-8 years ago and are most likely well overdue to be re-built. They squeak like crazy and no matter how much I grease them it won't stop so the time has come this to happen. Call it a reckoning!

In the past I have used Mobil 1 Synthetic and Green Grease. Maybe mixing the two wasn't the best idea but it's what I did. Now since I have the opportunity to start fresh and clean I have narrowed the Grease selection down to two choices.

Currie Johnny Joint Grease - The official grease, that I just found searching recently but can't find much info on it. https://www.currieenterprises.com/ce-9013g-johnny-joint-grease

Redline CV-2 Syntehtic Grease with Red Moly - I saw some mentions of it and they sounded good.
https://www.redlineoil.com/cv-2-grease

Anyone have any real-world experience on either of these two?
 
You want a high moly grease. If you're like some of us who are already running several grease guns, you probably don't want another grease gun. I have used RCV's high moly grease in mine.
 
toximus said:
You want a high moly grease. If you're like some of us who are already running several grease guns, you probably don't want another grease gun. I have used RCV's high moly grease in mine.
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We'll have to test that. The Redline is the best so far and we don't mind finding something better.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Did I dream that you said you liked or used Lucas Red & Tacky several years ago?
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Possibly or I mixed the two up since I have and use both. I did verify that it is the CV-2 stuff with Red Moly though so I know that is correct.

I know what I likely won't be using since I just bought a tube of it to replace one I borrowed and that's the RCV stuff. 50 bucks a tube is a bit much.
 
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mrblaine said:
We'll have to test that. The Redline is the best so far and we don't mind finding something better.
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I'm curious what you end up thinking of it. I'm not partial to the RCV grease, but since I already have it for my shafts it's an easy choice.

Have you tried the grease directly from Currie? It's hard to tell from that picture who's making it for them.
 
mrblaine said:
Possibly or I mixed the two up since I have and use both. I did verify that it is the CV-2 stuff with Red Moly though so I know that is correct.

I know what I likely won't be using since I just bought a tube of it to replace one I borrowed and that's the RCV stuff. 50 bucks a tube is a bit much.
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Stumbled across this thread because it's grease time at the control arm corral. I am currently using
Valvoline SynPower Synthetic

and have had good results but I find it odd that after only 2 months I need to regrease already. This is my first go with johnny joint control arms so I have two questions:
How often should I be greasing them? It's a DD with (sadly) once every maybe 2 months off road usage.
Can I use the CV-2 stuff and just push out the Valvoline or do I need to take the joint apart and clean it all out first?
 
mgroeger said:
Stumbled across this thread because it's grease time at the control arm corral. I am currently using
Valvoline SynPower Synthetic

and have had good results but I find it odd that after only 2 months I need to regrease already. This is my first go with johnny joint control arms so I have two questions:
How often should I be greasing them? It's a DD with (sadly) once every maybe 2 months off road usage.
Can I use the CV-2 stuff and just push out the Valvoline or do I need to take the joint apart and clean it all out first?
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Take the joint apart & clean it out, then use your hands to grease the race & ball. The clearances inside a true Johnnyjoint (made by Currie) are too close/tight to be greasable with the joint's zerk fitting.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Take the joint apart & clean it out, then use your hands to grease the race & ball. The clearances inside a true Johnnyjoint (made by Currie) are too close/tight to be greasable with the joint's zerk fitting.
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Thanks Jerry. I assume the Lucas Red-n-Tacky2 is not as good as the Redline CV-2 correct?
 
Red and tacky is a great grease, but after my own research I've learned that Lithium Complex greases are most backwards compatible. Also comparing the 2 here the only differences are that redline CV2 is a red moly based grease which helps these tighter tolerances by leaving a very thin layer of this moly additive for the ball and race to move on. The red and tacky is a grease without moly additive.

Also to mention is currie does recommend a moly type grease in all of their JJ joints. They also mentioned it doesnt hurt to use it in their steering systems although it's not 100% needed because the balljoints are metal on metal. The JJ joints are metal on poly type. Any grease is better than no grease but from my research here and other forums, moly additive goes a long way with the JJ joints.
 
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nathanotis said:
Old thread, but checking on current wisdom.


Do we still stand by this recommendation?
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mrblaine said:
For our area, absolutely.
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You should be fine in Colorado. From what I gather, it's east of I-25 where people have trouble due to clay content in the soil sucking the oil out of the grease.

I have materials for an experiment I just haven't got around to doing yet, but I'm going to put some clay dirt next to some CV2 in one dish and some silicone based Formula 5 Prelube from Energy Suspension in another, and see if the silicone stuff responds better than the CV2. I'm currently running CV2 in my LCA's and F5 in my rear UCA's.
 
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So what's with the instructions from Currie stating they use a non-synthetic Chevron product?

Most, if not all of the suggestions I see are for a synthetic product. Is the poly sensitive to some synthetics?

(I'm inspecting 20 new JJ's today and lubing at the same time, don't want to screw this up!)
 
nathanotis said:
So what's with the instructions from Currie stating they use a non-synthetic Chevron product?

Most, if not all of the suggestions I see are for a synthetic product. Is the poly sensitive to some synthetics?

(I'm inspecting 20 new JJ's today and lubing at the same time, don't want to screw this up!)
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I read exactly the same in the instructions for a front track bar:
12. Lastly, grease the zerk fittings on both Johnny Joints with a non-synthetic, high moly lube. 🤔
 
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