RED02TJ 2.0

6mo oil change, cargo carrier “build”, and date night. Not a bad weekend.

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Raised the third taillight, worth the $25 for the warrior kit.

LUK master/slave cylinder kit on the way. I’m slowly working my way through the remaining original (or crap) replacement parts. The Redline MTL fixed my gear sticking issue and the master cylinder kit is the last thing I can DIY to rule that out some less than ideal shifting and stickyness on the clutch pedal before I consider dropping the trans.

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How hard was that to replace?
It’s pretty easy, about 30min and all you need is 13mm for the slave and 15mm for the master, the most annoying part is being able to see up under the dash against the firewall, but there a a few important steps (sorry if you already know this)
  1. Don’t undo the retaining straps on the slave cylinder, they will pop off after the first clutch press post install.
  2. You only get one shot at inserting the push rod so make sure you’ve got the clutch safety switch foam ring and grommet lined up first and you do this before connecting the push rod to the pedal
  3. Buy an extra one of these. Dorman 74014 Clutch Pedal Linkage Bushing Compatible with Select Models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009XA8IP2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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@red02tj Looks like the TJ is coming along nicely! Just out of curiosity, where'd you find the PC rear springs? I thought those had been discontinued / OOS for around a year?
 
@red02tj Looks like the TJ is coming along nicely! Just out of curiosity, where'd you find the PC rear springs? I thought those had been discontinued / OOS for around a year?
Thanks! local Jeep shop had them.
Fortec (770) 642-7260. They do the Rancho/Procomp combo all the time. They might still have a few.
 
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Odds and ends Update:
  • Without Jinxing it, AC still blowing cold after the recharge
  • Some days the RMS is dry, some weeks it will ooze just enough for a drop to collect at the bottom of the bell housing, still can’t justify the shop cost to replace
  • New clutch master/slave cylinder didn’t fix the clutch crunchiness. It’s only after it’s fully warmed up and not affecting drivability. At 35k miles I can’t imagine anything is worn but putting on the list to ignore until it’s a problem and do RMS and clutch at the same time
  • Tcase fluid change and new speedo Oring
 
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It’s the raingear half cover. Covers everything with the top down and half door windows out. It’s been worth the money.
 
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It’s the raingear half cover. Covers everything with the top down and half door windows out. It’s been worth the money.

Raingear! That’s it I was trying to remember the brand name. They seem to be one of the few that will work with a light bar.
 
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notes for me.

New open items.
  • Steering feels like a pontoon boat. Tires were balanced and alignment done after the lift in Feb but something feels off.
  • Still running the P/S leak stop, can I keep running or replace.
  • Clutch still creaking after everything is warm, still no change after clutch M/S replacemy. not impacting shifting but need to keep an eye on it.

Old items, looking good.
  • HF cargo carrier has paid for its self. Gives me just enough extra space for weekend camping since my kids still ride in back.
  • Redline MTL fixed the intermittent issue where 2nd and 3rd were hard to get out of gear.
  • Speedo gear leak is fixed. 100+ highway miles and no seepage.
  • Pleasantly surprised at how well the A/C is holding up in the heat and humidity.
  • RMS still weeping enough to keep the bottom of the bell housing shiny but no blow by or drips on the ground.
 
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7/14/2022
Redhead steering gear box replacement was successful, took all damm day but really nice to be driving without the slop.
7/29/22
Still need to figure out the clutch issue. When cold, driving or parked clutch pedal goes smoothly in/out with engine on/off. Once things come up to temp, the clutch feels like a squeaky spring.
 
Flexseal for the win, coated the A/C drian pipe foam inside and out and think this is my last water-related leak & solved.