RedrumRH's 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport

RedrumRH

WNC Asheville Area
Supporting Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2018
Messages
233
Location
Mars Hill, NC, USA
Figure I will start to document some of my tinkering. Took an old ThermaRest sleeping pad that was slightly ripped. Cut the good end off the thermarest as a backing board for the tool section. Predrilled guide holes, hanging anchor points, then screws washers (look close they match) and like magic a Free Mod! Just gathered up some of the tools I regularly use, and got a little creative. Ax, compact shovel, bolt cutters, machete, orange stuff bag, bungees are just stored there they don't actually hold any of the tools, just keep the rattling down. The tool anchor hanging points are worm gear hose clamps of various sizes, and the handles slide out to remove tools. Put a red reflector in there for more visibility if I am fiddling around back there on a dark road, plus it looks cool to me, and my genius rear tailgate light, flip switch like a household light switch, battery operated and double taped (lower right corner). Very convenient to have a flip switch led light back there.
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March 2018 - Upgraded the turn indicators, rear tail lights, interior lights, side markers, engine compartment light, to LED bulbs and wow what a difference.

I use 2 of these red led bulbs and just put them in the existing sockets under the dash up front, really good for the night vision in the foot wells.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...d-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/922/

Interior soundbar light, activated by rotating headlight knob. Got cool white, neat look to have cool white for the rear and the red in the foot wells.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...d-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/919/

Rear taillights- function as rear running tail lights and dual function for brake light. Much brighter than stock.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...n-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit/2625/5698/

Third brake light stock
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...n-27-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofit/2625/5698/

Under hood bulb - big improvement but really need two lights to really see. Might do an additional light and harness to operate off the same circuit when you open and close the hood to activate/deactivate.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/festoon/561-led-bulb-9-smd-led-festoon-44mm-car/244/1165/

Amber side marker - led makes a difference.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...d-tower-miniature-wedge-retrofit-car/206/923/

Amber Blinker - same.
https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...on-27-smd-led-tower-wedge-retrofit/3557/7522/

Total cost about $100 to replace every single light bulb in and out with LED, (EXCEPT FOR THE HEADLIGHTS) I got some duplicates in that total cost number, some cool white color I might try out behind the red tail light lenses (but everyone says use a red colored led bulb behind red colored lenses, same with amber colored lenses) cool white duplicates for foot wells if I want interior colors to match. I really do dig the red footwell led bulbs! I think that's everything!
 
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$200 total cost:
Hi-Lift jack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000688VNE/?tag=wranglerorg-20) mounted on driver side (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AXDWOW0/?tag=wranglerorg-20) , looks cool, many uses, big stick if needed and breaker bar, plus can actually lift a stuck wheel. Got the wheel lift accessory. I debated the Hi-Lift, will I really use it that often?...... knowing the inherent (Lack of) safety issues, the reason I ultimately strapped on the bright red Hi-Lift,..... I do property management and it will be easy for the neighborhood security to identify me when I am wheeling around the 8 square mile community, of mostly gravel roads that total 60 miles, its a large hood. The neighborhood security patrol won't worry about seeing my Jeep in various places because they know who it is with the Hi-Lift peaking above the roof line, and we have a shi*ton of Jeeps in this area/neighborhood. If security does not recognize a vehicle they might approach etc and although I know all of the employees, I just assume they do there job and not wast their time checking on me in my travels. Did I mention the bright red accessory looks cool:)
 
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Headlight upgrade, total cost $94.

More Lighting upgrades. I upgraded the bulbs all to LED...BUT I wanted to retain the old school Halogen look for the headlights and fogs. That might sound strange, but I did not want to put LED headlights in a TJ. Maybe a budget minded point of view, that's convenient for the bank account, but seriously I really don't want a cool white headlight color on a 2000 TJ. It just does not look right to me. To have any 7" round light and the LED's, and that "look" in any Wrangler seems out of place. If it were a brand new Ruby, then bring on the led headlights.

This is what I installed.

Factory Fog bulb replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00544ZCSW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Prior to bulb switch, I took the entire fog light lens housing apart, and cleaned the inside of the fog lenses by using alcohol and salt mixture. Swish it around for a while, rinse and repeat, to get rid of the oxidized cloudiness, brought back the original fogs to almost brand new, let all the water evaporate overnight and reassemble, and the new bulbs rock.

New Headlight Lens housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DQV88Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20

New Headlight Bulbs for housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7NGI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The new bulbs and some elbow grease and part upgrades give a much better visibility at night!
 
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Headlight upgrade, total cost $94.

More Lighting upgrades. I upgraded the bulbs all to LED...BUT I wanted to retain the old school Halogen look for the headlights and fogs. That might sound strange, but I did not want to put LED headlights in a TJ. Maybe a budget minded point of view, that's convenient for the bank account, but seriously I really don't want a cool white headlight color on a 2000 TJ. It just does not look right to me. To have any 7" round light and the LED's, and that "look" in any Wrangler seems out of place. If it were a brand new Ruby, then bring on the led headlights.

This is what I installed.

Factory Fog bulb replacement: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00544ZCSW/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Prior to bulb switch, I took the entire fog light lens housing apart, and cleaned the inside of the fog lenses by using alcohol and salt mixture. Swish it around for a while, rinse and repeat, to get rid of the oxidized cloudiness, brought back the original fogs to almost brand new, let all the water evaporate overnight and reassemble, and the new bulbs rock.

New Headlight Lens housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008DQV88Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20

New Headlight Bulbs for housing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CO7NGI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The new bulbs and some elbow grease and part upgrades give a much better visibility at night!
I haven’t upgraded to LEDs yet, bc I prefer the stock housing as well. I think a lot of the aftermarket ones look silly. I should do what you’ve done here. Thanks for this idea!
 
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Could you post up a couple pics of what the LED lights look like when turned on? I went to superbrightLED and filled my cart, but I want to see how they look before pulling the trigger. Thanks!
 
I took these pictures today mid day, the sun was out. Even in the daytime they are bright. Seems the led bulbs are the way to go. From what I understand, the switch to LED bulbs helps the electrical charging system (alt/battery)...??.. Hope these help. I cleaned the amber lens covers when I had them off to insert new bulbs, just soapy water and rinse and let dry really good.
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. I also put a LED under the hood in the factory light housing, and it goes on and off with the hood position, so I think the light housing is factory and may have been an option. That seems funny to me in a way, but hey I guess the Jeep TJ added for every little option.
 
Total stereo upgrade, took a couple weeks, did a little at a time, and kept going till everything was new (oooppppps it just happened) ....replaced front speakers first, that helped but still had crappy factor head unit. Then a new head unit, and two more of the same speakers for the sound bar, then the sub a week later, then the front speaker enclosures to fine tune sound, and the poly fill for the same, ............. The madness!!!!

Head Unit - Sony https://www.crutchfield.com/p_158GS820BT/Sony-MEX-GS820BT.html?tp=5684

Speakers X4 - Infinity 5.25 https://www.crutchfield.com/p_1085211I/Infinity-Kappa-52-11i.html?cc=02&tp=97 These took finest to install in the front dash, left side was a tighter fit and had to cut a piece of metal strap for fit.

Sub box with Amp - Rockford Fosgate - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3WKUX8/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Sat Radio - https://www.crutchfield.com/p_220SXV300/SiriusXM-SXV300V1-Tuner.html?tp=87

Speaker enclosures for front dash, helps project the sound out. I ran them for a week and realized these were very necessary. It took patience to set them properly, and I had to be REALLY careful not to tear the speaker as I finessed them into place. On left front I had to cut out a piece of metal strap back there for the speaker to fit. TIP — Put a piece of paper folder a couple times thick to insert against and flat over the speaker cone as some protection while you manipulate it into place, get the four screws in and tight, it takes a little time cause you don't want to punch a speaker with the screw driver (I almost did just that a couple times), the few layers of regular printer paper protects the speaker which will be touching other dash surfaces before the speaker is fully tightened down with all four screws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039YWT62/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Poly fill for the dead space in the middle of the sound bar, helps project more sound, no doubt. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TH2E3PA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wired to battery directly, both the Sony head and the power to sub box. I grabbed the remote power for sub box wire by grabbing power off the radio fuse in the fuse box behind the glove box and running the wire back to the sub box, so the sub knows to turn on and off with the key just like the radio. I got one of these, add a fuse kit. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LFXA5XM/?tag=wranglerorg-20 The power wire to the sub box is direct from battery as I said, so you get max thump capability.

The Rockford Fosgate sub box will fit under the front driver seat no problem IF you raise the front seats with a 1.25 inch seat riser. It is great to lift the seat just a little for me, now the driver door with window down is the perfect arm rest height now for my left arm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007TWOOGI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Of course inline fuses, firewall plug was easy to punch a hole in for a couple 10 gauge wires, perfect install I must say! I had Crutchfield pre-wire Sony head for 19 bucks so factory plug and play with factory harness and used the existing speaker wire from the factory. I did splice out the yellow power wire that powers Sony unit, from pre-wired harness from Crutchfield, so I could power Sony from the battery and not have power draw for Sony from the regular wiring harness. More power directly to Sony from battery, means the 4X45 RMS sounds great at 60 mph and all the windows out. The amp in this head unit wth power from battery, with the four 2 Ohm speakers, and the sub sounds very good together. It was like $700 all in, and like we do.....I debated, and researched, wanting a good system, simply wanted to keep the speakers in factory locations, without any tweeter clutter on the dash, no big sub box taking up too much room, and this was the result. Made sure the wires I installed for sub box were running along the same factory wire location cluster pathway, took off trim and put back on etc, for a clean clean install. I did run the RCA cables from head unit to sub box along the passenger side, I know all the wires are insulated, but why not just keep the signal path RCA cables aways from the power wires.

I must say I can wire a stereo well but it had been a while since replacing everything. Pretty easy and I was patient which helped. It rocks now!

I'll grab some picts in the am.
 
Today was productive. Installed the four new Rancho shocks today. Oil change (59,250 miles), new fluid in front and rear axels. New Power steering pump and pulley, hopefully tomorrow. Tranny and transfer case fluid change planned for the near future.
 
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From what I understand, the switch to LED bulbs helps the electrical charging system (alt/battery)...??..

Yes. LEDs don't draw nearly as much power as halogens, so it won't put as much stress on your electrical system. I'm not sure it will make a difference, but it's still nice to know!
 
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Craigslist score, 4 Canyon wheels for $100! Going to mount some dedicated snow tires in a month or so, still deciding studs or no studs......decisions decisions.....