Removing stripped torx hinge bolts

GoldenEagle

A cross thread is a tight thread
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So, in my quest to finish the half door build, I decided to check fitment while I wait on the seals and u nuts I need. They needed some tweaking.

The PO painted them and just went right over the hinges and bolts. I used an impact driver to crack the paint, and this worked on 4 of the 6 hinge bolts.

The other two? Yeah, they're f'd up with stripped heads now. What's the advice here? Start drilling at 5/32s up to 7/32s or 1/4" and pray I don't need to start asking about helicoils next week? Or does an easy out exist to where I can drill the head a hair to get past the paint and back it out that way?
 
They are also painted over at the factory and can be a bear to remove as you found out. Did you use a fancy battery impact driver or one like this; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The manual type is best for bolts, err, I mean screws, like on door strikes and hinges. Even with a bunged up interface the manual style can still be effective.
Having dealt with doors before, I used the old school hammer and spring loaded one manual one. Just easy outed the end off my damn drill too. Probably should have applied heat. Of the ones I got out with no less than high effort, there's loctite involved. The two I messed up, I'm not sure I can do much but carefully drill and hopefully tap cleanly.
 
As you mentioned, heat is another way to help loosen the thread locker used. I didn’t want to suggest it, being that it can cause harm if not done properly. You appear to know what you’re doing and have exhausted the most common ways.

Now it‘s down to... drill, man, drill!! Good luck. Many layers of tape around the offending part to keep damage minimal.
 
They are also painted over at the factory and can be a bear to remove as you found out. Did you use a fancy battery impact driver or one like this; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The manual type is best for bolts, err, I mean screws, like on door strikes and hinges. Even with a bunged up interface the manual style can still be effective.
I’m doing this same project currently, I ordered a manual driver off Amazon and it didn’t do 💩 for my bolts. I used a 3000 lb torque driver and that wouldn’t move them either.

I determined that I’m just going to sand them down and paint right over them. My luck is much like yours and I’ll strip them out. Some already started, from inside the door you can see where the factory painted inside too, that has to factor in as well.
 
I can definitely say drilling did not go well.
20210508_181019.jpg
 
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Probably too little too late at this point, but buy a bottle of EZ-Grip & keep it in your tool box. It's a suspension of razor sharp steel particles that give your wrench/socket/tool a shitload more grip. It's very popular in the aircraft industry & standard issue for any F-16/15/22 crew chief that has to deal with aircraft panels that have hundreds of recessed head fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFEJY5W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Probably too little too late at this point, but buy a bottle of EZ-Grip & keep it in your tool box. It's a suspension of razor sharp steel particles that give your wrench/socket/tool a shitload more grip. It's very popular in the aircraft industry & standard issue for any F-16/15/22 crew chief that has to deal with aircraft panels that have hundreds of recessed head fasteners.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFEJY5W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Lmao. I needed you this morning! But, better late than never. Definitely adding it to the tool box.
Sorry to see that, I’m sure there is a fix for it, seems to be one for everything!
Definitely is. It's called "let the body shop I'm gonna have them painted at deal with it." I'm sure they can get the rest of the POS out. 2 out of 3 is good enough. I'll cut the head off another and jb weld it over the hinge hole for esthetics if it comes down to it. At least with that one, there's enough room to get a nut back there. If I ever sell the Jeep, these half doors are wall hangers as an ode to my own ignorance thinking "it'll be cheaper to piece them together."
 
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Lmao. I needed you this morning! But, better late than never. Definitely adding it to the tool box.

Definitely is. It's called "let the body shop I'm gonna have them painted at deal with it." I'm sure they can get the rest of the POS out. 2 out of 3 is good enough. I'll cut the head off another and jb weld it over the hinge hole for esthetics if it comes down to it. At least with that one, there's enough room to get a nut back there. If I ever sell the Jeep, these half doors are wall hangers as an ode to my own ignorance thinking "it'll be cheaper to piece them together."
I get it 100% already and all I have done is my interior panels and rip the doors apart. My paint should come Monday, hoping to sand them down this week and paint them. I’m going to do the insides of the doors as well so the color looks the same when they are open. I’m sure I’ll regret it 🤪
 
I get it 100% already and all I have done is my interior panels and rip the doors apart. My paint should come Monday, hoping to sand them down this week and paint them. I’m going to do the insides of the doors as well so the color looks the same when they are open. I’m sure I’ll regret it 🤪
Should be pretty light work on the inside. Not much you can see with the panels on there. You check your fit with them? That's how I ended up in the debacle today. ItS JuSt A mInOr AdJuStMeNt... there was no minor adjustment in the end. Just a pile of metal shavings, receipts for drill bits, and a man's broken spirits. Haha.

Also, 0/2 on the day because I also polished the mirror right off the side mirror removing adhesive. Didn't know that mirror finish is on the front, unlike your bathroom vanity. 😳
 
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Heat cycle them and remove with an easy out. I had to get mine surprisingly hot yet the paint held up. Torch on, torch off, over and over to let the heat really sink in.
 
Should be pretty light work on the inside. Not much you can see with the panels on there. You check your fit with them? That's how I ended up in the debacle today. ItS JuSt A mInOr AdJuStMeNt... there was no minor adjustment in the end. Just a pile of metal shavings, receipts for drill bits, and a man's broken spirits. Haha.

Also, 0/2 on the day because I also polished the mirror right off the side mirror removing adhesive. Didn't know that mirror finish is on the front, unlike your bathroom vanity. 😳
Driver side no issues, passenger side didn’t close, but the old gasket was shot. Door fits without the gasket, I figure worst case scenario is if it’s tough with the gasket on it can come off. These doors are just for fun and trails.

I agree that inside won’t be too much work. Just want it silver vs blue, don’t care if it looks great in there.
Heat cycle them and remove with an easy out. I had to get mine surprisingly hot yet the paint held up. Torch on, torch off, over and over to let the heat really sink in.
I would still screw this up 🤪
 
Heat cycle them and remove with an easy out. I had to get mine surprisingly hot yet the paint held up. Torch on, torch off, over and over to let the heat really sink in.
I have an old chuckless Black and Decker drill. The only easy out about it was the head coming off the drill. I can either go get the Dewalt combo I've been wanting when my drill gives up the ghost, or just let the body shop deal with it. If I hadn't botched everything today, I'd probably try again. But I think I'm just going throw in the towel. At the very least, there's good tips in this thread that will help the next person out, and me when I inevitably have to pull something else recessed torx off.
 
I have an old corded Black and Decker drill I bought for work way back when they made a line of industrial tools. The keyed chuck (and the cord of course) is a pain in the ass but it has enough torque to twist lot of stuff in half that I really preferred had stayed in one piece :)
 
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Driver side no issues, passenger side didn’t close, but the old gasket was shot. Door fits without the gasket, I figure worst case scenario is if it’s tough with the gasket on it can come off. These doors are just for fun and trails.

I agree that inside won’t be too much work. Just want it silver vs blue, don’t care if it looks great in there.

I would still screw this up 🤪
I think you're gonna have some nasty rattling without them. That was my one take away today before I chose the path of carnage. Some glue and a few pieces of old seal or even just the pinned in spots might solve both problems for you.
I have an old corded Black and Decker drill I bought for work way back when they made a line of industrial tools. The keyed chuck (and the cord of course) is a pain in the ass but it has enough torque to twist lot of stuff in half that I really preferred had stayed in one piece :)
I recall my old man's chucked B&D drill being the same way. I wouldn't trust that brand for even a coffee pot anymore. Just keep hoping this drill will die so I can justify a new one. The head threads back on, it's really just not going to cut it for an easy out for obvious reasons... unless I red loctite it........ be right back.
 
I think you're gonna have some nasty rattling without them. That was my one take away today before I chose the path of carnage. Some glue and a few pieces of old seal or even just the pinned in spots might solve both problems for you.
I drilled the holes for the new gasket, it should fit fine once it’s all done.