I’m currently leaning towards Cordura over Tweed for my Jeep living in similar conditions.
Which route did you decide to go?
Replacing my tired uncomfortable seats with PRP suspension seats
- Thread starter Jerry Bransford
- Start date
Which route did you decide to go?
Blue Maltese
Member
Me Too!! It's such a pain in the butt to unzip my back window to get into my storage area that I access the area by folding the seats up. I removed my back seat and store a shade canopy, folding camp chair, emergency supply kit, and various other stuff there. I'd like to see how those seats lay up against the dash and how much space is left for access. I'm about 98% ready to place an order.
Koolhotrod
New Member
Hi Jerry,
I just joined this forum! I know this is an old post but hoping you can answer a question for me. I was looking at this model of seat for my 97TJ and I'm wondering if these seats sat higher than stock? If so how much?
Post #3 it was asked about the seat height but I don't think it was answered. I just watched a YouTube video and the guy was saying the model PRP seat he installed sat maybe 2" higher which I can't have, I'm 6"4" and I don't want to raise my seat. He mentioned possibly trying a Corbeau seat mount to lower the seat, he used the PRP brackets on the stock seat brackets. His was also a different model PRP suspension seat.
Thank's
I just joined this forum! I know this is an old post but hoping you can answer a question for me. I was looking at this model of seat for my 97TJ and I'm wondering if these seats sat higher than stock? If so how much?
Post #3 it was asked about the seat height but I don't think it was answered. I just watched a YouTube video and the guy was saying the model PRP seat he installed sat maybe 2" higher which I can't have, I'm 6"4" and I don't want to raise my seat. He mentioned possibly trying a Corbeau seat mount to lower the seat, he used the PRP brackets on the stock seat brackets. His was also a different model PRP suspension seat.
Thank's
OP
Welcome! I just checked and remembered/noticed I placed 1.5" spacers under my PRP seat frames which makes them about right for me at 5-11. I like to sit a little taller so I can lean out more easily to see what my tires are doing offroad.
So to answer your question I'd have to say the PRP Daily Driver model seats I installed are certainly no taller than stock. You'll need their adapter brackets too.
Koolhotrod
New Member
OK Thank you!
I was also reading what you wrote about the 97 you had that the stock seat belt receiver did not bolt to the seat frame, but the one you have now does. I thought mine did and was going to have to make a bracket to mount it, maybe I don't then since mine is a 97.
OP
The OE seat belt receive/inner belt half was too short to bolt to the frame. What I ended up getting that fit the outer seatbelt male part was an inner seat belt out of a classic Mustang parts store I found online. I used a piece of angle iron as a mount and used Grade 8 bolts to hold it in place.
Sorry I don't recall where I bought it and after looking through all my old emails and doing a Google search I came up empty handed. I can only say it was for a vintage Mustang and it fits the other half of the seat belt perfectly. It was certainly under $40-50, unlike what many Mustang shops try to get for their seat belts.
Tray Burge
TJ Addict
I have the PRP's and when you put the sliders in they will certainly rise a bit, mine did.
My seatbelt bracket was eating my center console even after chamfering the edges of the bracket, so I purchased universal buckles.
The extensions between the mount and the buckle are seatbelt material (like the old school seatbelts were) so I was able to slip them through the inboard of the seat (sleeve area of the upolstry).
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FWIW, I have the PRP enduro recliners (non-elites) and I didn't notice any noticeable height increase other than from the seat adaptor brackets that iirc added .75" of height.
I believe I read in the past that the 03-06 seats sit an inch lower than the 97-02 seats but someone like @Jerry Bransford would be a good person to ask on that.
Even if that's the case, you would want to find out if it's the seat itself or the base that's taller in your year. If it's the seat then that's great news since the seat would be replaced. If it's the seat base that's taller, maybe you can find seat bases from an 03-06...and that would help cancel out the added height from the PRP adaptor brackets.
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Tray Burge
TJ Addict
Yes Sir and while it did raise them a little, for me it put the seat in a better position, but I'm only about 5'9 not 6.4.
I read a thread somewhere on how to install aftermarket seats, but to lower them too because the adapters seem to raise them all.
Koolhotrod
New Member
Thanks for the replies!
The video I watched where he said his seats sat higher had the Enduro seats not the daily driver PRP, which is why I was asking if the daily driver sat higher. I was thinking maybe all the PRP seats might sit higher?
I know the Corbeau seat mount for their seats that eliminates the stock mount and sliders completely says it stays the same height, which in my case may lower the seat if my 97 sits higher since they are just saying it's for a TJ. They don't talk about the different years having different seat heights. They also sell adapter brackets that mount to the original seat sliders and say this will raise the seat. The replacement mount they sell eliminating the stock mounts also has a seat belt provision, you don't have to come up with your own fabricated brackets.
I actually want the Corbeau seats but I don't want high bolsters since getting in and out would be a pain, but I’m still undecided if I’m going to keep the Jeep and buy a different one. The daily driver PRP suspension seat has the lower bottom bolster which I like but I do not want to go any higher at all.
So the reason it would be a pain with the high bolster is the height with my 6" lift, and the lift may be the reason I don't keep it. So here comes the long-winded explanation.
This is my first Jeep.......and now after reading up on this forum maybe I made a mistake buying it since a lot of people on here seem to hate long arm kits and especially Rough Country.
Mine has a Rough Country long arm kit 6" lift with their N3 shocks and I feel like a bobble head driving, it seems so loose/bouncy, and hard to go on any type of curvy road the speed limit. I still haven’t taken it off road yet. When I bought the Jeep the sleeve and tie rod on the drag link were loose and making a popping sound so I just ordered new parts hoping it will make it steer better. Steering was terrible so I am now replacing some steering components with the Crown automotive HD stock kit most places sell, it has the drag link and tie rod, & 4 joints. I should have ordered all Moog parts but they are made in China also like the Crown kit, but are probably better quality. The new Crown tie rod to the pitman arm won't take grease, so I just ordered a Moog replacement since I'm not sending this kit back now. We will see if the quality is better with Moog. I have not drove it yet, waiting for the part. The tie rod is 1" on this kit vs. 3/4" stock.
After reading a thread on here about springs and the thread saying springs don’t make a difference since the spring rating is all about the same sort of, that on these Jeeps the shocks are what is important. (This is not what I expected to hear since on my cars I’m used to changing springs but the rates change drastically) I figured new springs maybe go 4” instead of 6" and shocks would firm things up. But after reading the thread I’ll leave the springs and try shocks.
I was looking at the Rancho 5000x which is highly recommended on here but they don’t make them for the 6” lift, then I was going to get the 9000’s, but I got a smokin deal on Fox 2.0 shocks which will work with 4" or 6" lift according to the info on the box I received last night. So I will see if this helps it... fingers crossed. I would like to keep this Jeep since it has a lot of things I was looking for, ARB front locker, body armor, new tires, 4.0L, etc.
The link below is why I was not going to change the springs,
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-dual-rate-versus-metalcloak-dual-rate.14955/
Oh yeah tire pressure I set at 24psi after reading about it on this forum and it helped a lot. The tires are 35” BFG and were at 48psi!
Is this RC long arm kit I have never going to drive good on the road? I guess I’ll find out. I didn't want a trailer only rig, I want to be able to drive to the trails.
Thanks again!
The video I watched where he said his seats sat higher had the Enduro seats not the daily driver PRP, which is why I was asking if the daily driver sat higher. I was thinking maybe all the PRP seats might sit higher?
I know the Corbeau seat mount for their seats that eliminates the stock mount and sliders completely says it stays the same height, which in my case may lower the seat if my 97 sits higher since they are just saying it's for a TJ. They don't talk about the different years having different seat heights. They also sell adapter brackets that mount to the original seat sliders and say this will raise the seat. The replacement mount they sell eliminating the stock mounts also has a seat belt provision, you don't have to come up with your own fabricated brackets.
I actually want the Corbeau seats but I don't want high bolsters since getting in and out would be a pain, but I’m still undecided if I’m going to keep the Jeep and buy a different one. The daily driver PRP suspension seat has the lower bottom bolster which I like but I do not want to go any higher at all.
So the reason it would be a pain with the high bolster is the height with my 6" lift, and the lift may be the reason I don't keep it. So here comes the long-winded explanation.
This is my first Jeep.......and now after reading up on this forum maybe I made a mistake buying it since a lot of people on here seem to hate long arm kits and especially Rough Country.
Mine has a Rough Country long arm kit 6" lift with their N3 shocks and I feel like a bobble head driving, it seems so loose/bouncy, and hard to go on any type of curvy road the speed limit. I still haven’t taken it off road yet. When I bought the Jeep the sleeve and tie rod on the drag link were loose and making a popping sound so I just ordered new parts hoping it will make it steer better. Steering was terrible so I am now replacing some steering components with the Crown automotive HD stock kit most places sell, it has the drag link and tie rod, & 4 joints. I should have ordered all Moog parts but they are made in China also like the Crown kit, but are probably better quality. The new Crown tie rod to the pitman arm won't take grease, so I just ordered a Moog replacement since I'm not sending this kit back now. We will see if the quality is better with Moog. I have not drove it yet, waiting for the part. The tie rod is 1" on this kit vs. 3/4" stock.
After reading a thread on here about springs and the thread saying springs don’t make a difference since the spring rating is all about the same sort of, that on these Jeeps the shocks are what is important. (This is not what I expected to hear since on my cars I’m used to changing springs but the rates change drastically) I figured new springs maybe go 4” instead of 6" and shocks would firm things up. But after reading the thread I’ll leave the springs and try shocks.
I was looking at the Rancho 5000x which is highly recommended on here but they don’t make them for the 6” lift, then I was going to get the 9000’s, but I got a smokin deal on Fox 2.0 shocks which will work with 4" or 6" lift according to the info on the box I received last night. So I will see if this helps it... fingers crossed. I would like to keep this Jeep since it has a lot of things I was looking for, ARB front locker, body armor, new tires, 4.0L, etc.
The link below is why I was not going to change the springs,
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...-dual-rate-versus-metalcloak-dual-rate.14955/
Oh yeah tire pressure I set at 24psi after reading about it on this forum and it helped a lot. The tires are 35” BFG and were at 48psi!
Is this RC long arm kit I have never going to drive good on the road? I guess I’ll find out. I didn't want a trailer only rig, I want to be able to drive to the trails.
Thanks again!
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OP
I double-checked that Rancho didn't have a taller RS5000x for that tall of a lift but was bummed to confirm just that. Yeah it's very likely your Rough Country shocks are the complete cause of your stiff ride. They're not named Rough Country for no reason lol. Good luck with the Fox shocks!!
Thanks for the replies!
The video I watched where he said his seats sat higher had the Enduro seats not the daily driver PRP, which is why I was asking if the daily driver sat higher. I was thinking maybe all the PRP seats might sit higher?
Enduro Recliners or Enduro Elites?
I am also 6'4" tall, I extend the track on my seats back 3" to get more leg room and to further from the steer wheel. What I found with the PRP and most after market seat is that they hit the roll bar beside the seat so the seats can not be fully moved to rear. Additionally getting in and out of these seat can be a wearing after a day on the trail. That said PRP makes a great seat and we run have then in our race car.
I didn’t like the 5000x at all which was pretty disappointing and the non-tunable foxes were far too stiff. I’ve been putting up with the 9000x adjustables, which were the best of the three for me but weren’t that great either.
Outboarding with tunable foxes is 100% the answer but it’s also costly. If your setup doesn't pan out, maybe try a tunable pair of foxes without worrying about outboarding assuming a set works with your lift. Best of luck.
FYI, I doubt the longarm is the problem. The shocks are the problem and there’s only one way I know of that makes a Jeep ride flat out amazing.
Edit: keep in mind that our rigs all very a little bit too…I have a soft top where a hard top’s weight might reduce the harshness that I’ve noticed (note: my Jeep rode smoother when it was loaded up with heavy parts for the re-gear).
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OP
After several years of great experience with my RS5000x shocks what was it you didn't like about them @Mikee024? The only problem I had was with the first set which were a little too long for my lift height and bottomed out too easily. Rancho's shock selection tool on their website seems to recommend shocks that are a little too tall. They are actually tied for first place of my all-time favorite/best riding shocks after having installed 10-12 different shocks on my TJs since 1996. The other shock that was tied for first place for me was the now discontinued OME Nitrocharger. I replaced the OME Nitrochargers that were failing from old-age with the RS5000x shocks and couldn't tell any ride difference, both gave a great controlled ride for my TJ.
I was surprised at how rough the 5000x shocks rode in the local Tucson streets (the roads are pretty beat up north of the university). The potholes were legitimately jarring even at 24 psi (35" C-load rated STT Pros with 15" tires).
I recall going through the part numbers of my shocks with you to ensure they weren't the old discontinued RS5000 shocks. 4WP confirmed the part numbers on the bodies to be 5000x shocks and stated that the older shocks are no longer produced or sold.
I didn't have any issues with the 5000x or the 9000x shocks bottoming out. The 5000x shocks were simply jarring on the rougher parts of the road. The 9000x were better but still not fantastic or even good.
To be clear, I definitely had no intentions of not liking the 5000x shocks (I painted them black before installation after reading such raving reviews).
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it's my understanding that you've also ridden in an outboarded rig with tunable Fox 2.0s that left you very impressed.
I felt the same way when @Chris took me for a ride in his @mrblaine outboarded rig with tunable Fox 2.0s. He purposefully drove off the damn road going about 40 mph and was seeking potholes just to show me how awesome the suspension performed.
I realized later that Chris's tires were 35" E-load rated tires with 17" wheels. Unbelievable.