Replacing oil pan gasket

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
First thanks to all who replied on my previous thread about detecting an oil leak. I am going to try and replace the gasket myself and it will be the biggest job I’ve undertaken on the jeep so far. I changed the radiator myself and that’s about the extent if any major repairs to far. Anyway, has anybody done the gasket job and can offer some advice or does anybody know of any good youtube videos to help walk me through it? I intend to start the project next saturday so if anybody can come up with something during the week that would be great.

I have a lot of mechanic tools such as sockets etc but are there any special tools I would need or any certain sizes??
 

mrblaine

Crew Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 20, 2015
Messages
25,119
Location
Quail Valley, CA
First thanks to all who replied on my previous thread about detecting an oil leak. I am going to try and replace the gasket myself and it will be the biggest job I’ve undertaken on the jeep so far. I changed the radiator myself and that’s about the extent if any major repairs to far. Anyway, has anybody done the gasket job and can offer some advice or does anybody know of any good youtube videos to help walk me through it? I intend to start the project next saturday so if anybody can come up with something during the week that would be great.

I have a lot of mechanic tools such as sockets etc but are there any special tools I would need or any certain sizes??

If you can weld, cut the exhaust right in front of the starter. Or, get a band style exhaust connector and use that to get you to a muffler shop.

I use the box the new pan comes in, lay out the holes in the pan on the box and then poke holes with a Phillips screwdriver. That gives you a template for where each bolt goes. Put them in the correct hole as you remove it. Get some oil specific RTV and pay attention to where it says to use it at the corners of the gasket.

I like to drain the oil and let it sit for a day so less oil isn't dripping on your while you're cleaning the block side gasket surfaces.

The exhaust at the manifold generally sucks. We pull the rubber mud guard off to give better access and viewing under the fender over the top of the frame.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Jamison C and NskLJ
OP
Joeinnewjersey

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
If you can weld, cut the exhaust right in front of the starter. Or, get a band style exhaust connector and use that to get you to a muffler shop.

I use the box the new pan comes in, lay out the holes in the pan on the box and then poke holes with a Phillips screwdriver. That gives you a template for where each bolt goes. Put them in the correct hole as you remove it. Get some oil specific RTV and pay attention to where it says to use it at the corners of the gasket.

I like to drain the oil and let it sit for a day so less oil isn't dripping on your while you're cleaning the block side gasket surfaces.

The exhaust at the manifold generally sucks. We pull the rubber mud guard off to give better access and viewing under the fender over the top of the frame.

Do I have to order a new pan in order to change the gasket?
 

macleanflood

I break sh!t
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2021
Messages
1,078
Location
Fall Creek, OR
You sure your rear main seal isn't leaking?

You're 90 percent of the way doing the oil pan seal.

Also check your timing chain slack...you can just reach it at the front of the pan.

-Mac
 

RVAH-13

New Member
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2022
Messages
17
Location
Minnesota
1669577656255.png

I have used this company for seals on my 1959 Chevy, 235 6cyl engine, it is like a dog, it marks its spots. They are more pricey but my side gasket, oil pan and valve cover no longer leak.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joeinnewjersey
OP
Joeinnewjersey

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
You sure your rear main seal isn't leaking?

You're 90 percent of the way doing the oil pan seal.

Also check your timing chain slack...you can just reach it at the front of the pan.

-Mac

From what I can see the seam of the oil pan on the left side is completely covered in oily crud. There is also a burning smell after driving. There doesn’t seem to be any oil leaking from valve cover. RMS area seems okay. The pattern of oil on the floor seems to indicate multiple leak points, whereas on my old firebird the RMS seal leak sort of left an “organized” oil puddle if that makes sense.

I’m confused by your 90% comment lol

6EE46371-BD44-442A-950C-45D62C10A5A2.jpeg
 

MountaineerTom

LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Sep 25, 2018
Messages
4,688
Location
Sumter, SC
…meaning you’re 90% done changing the RMS just by changing the oil pan gasket.

Once you get the oil pan off, you’ll likely see signs of an RMS leak if it is leaking. If it’s not, I wouldn‘t disturb it. A Fel-Pro RMS gasket and some sealant wouldn’t cost much, so you could go ahead and get one and have in hand in case you need it. If not, you got it in case you ever do.

When you get the pan off, post some pictures of the RMS. Someone will likely be able to help determine if it’s leaking.

As far as changing the oil pan gasket, you’ll need to apply some sealant in a few places prior to installing the gasket. I think I have a screenshot of the areas from the service manual I can post if someone doesn’t have the info before I get home from work.

In case you didn’t know, this site has the factory service manuals in the Resources Forum. Very handy and you can download them to you computer or phone as well.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Joeinnewjersey
OP
Joeinnewjersey

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
…meaning you’re 90% done changing the RMS just by changing the oil pan gasket.

Once you get the oil pan off, you’ll likely see signs of an RMS leak if it is leaking. If it’s not, I wouldn‘t disturb it. A Fel-Pro RMS gasket and some sealant wouldn’t cost much, so you could go ahead and get one and have in hand in case you need it. If not, you got it in case you ever do.

When you get the pan off, post some pictures of the RMS. Someone will likely be able to help determine if it’s leaking.

As far as changing the oil pan gasket, you’ll need to apply some sealant in a few places prior to installing the gasket. I think I have a screenshot of the areas from the service manual I can post if someone doesn’t have the info before I get home from work.

In case you didn’t know, this site has the factory service manuals in the Resources Forum. Very handy and you can download them to you computer or phone as well.

Thank you so much for the information. I plan on doing this on Saturday so I have all week to research.

In order to remove the pan do I have to move anything else? There was a comment above about the exhaust system
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom

MountaineerTom

LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Joined
Sep 25, 2018
Messages
4,688
Location
Sumter, SC
Thank you so much for the information. I plan on doing this on Saturday so I have all week to research.

In order to remove the pan do I have to move anything else? There was a comment above about the exhaust system

From my memory, there were 4 bolts holding the 2 pre-cats to the exhaust manifold. Those were the ones I had to soak with 50/50 trans fluid/acetone overnight to get them loose. I also pulled the bolts on the main cat back towards the muffler. Those were hard to reach but I think I used a combination of extensions to get to them. That allowed me to lower that part of the exhaust so the oil pan would come out once the bolts were removed. Blaine’s recommendation of using some cardboard to stick the bolts and studs through is the way to go.

Here’s the screenshots of the oil pan removal/installation in the service manual. I honestly don’t remember doing some things it say to do like remove the starter and jacking the engine up. And the Fel-Pro gasket/temporary studs that Rcroane mentioned are used instead of the gasket mentioned in the manual or modifying bolts to use as studs. It also tells you where to add the sealant in the corners before installing the gasket. I think I used Permatex Ultra Black.

8D06AB55-B86B-43AB-9E9E-988A514AB8B3.jpeg


194BCD2C-9C79-48CB-BE9C-CEAC8C9E012C.jpeg


FC5B8D7F-DC3A-4A1A-8650-C9F1BA665655.jpeg
 

NskLJ

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2021
Messages
1,292
Location
Long Beach
From what I can see the seam of the oil pan on the left side is completely covered in oily crud. There is also a burning smell after driving. There doesn’t seem to be any oil leaking from valve cover. RMS area seems okay. The pattern of oil on the floor seems to indicate multiple leak points, whereas on my old firebird the RMS seal leak sort of left an “organized” oil puddle if that makes sense.

I’m confused by your 90% comment lol

View attachment 379942
There is an inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing, three bolts to remove it. Once removed you can look up at the flywheel and crank where it comes out of the back of the block. If you see a spray pattern of oil on the flywheel radiating out from the crank the rear main is leaking.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
OP
Joeinnewjersey

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
There is an inspection cover on the bottom of the transmission bell housing, three bolts to remove it. Once removed you can look up at the flywheel and crank where it comes out of the back of the block. If you see a spray pattern of oil on the flywheel radiating out from the crank the rear main is leaking.

Okay.
 
OP
Joeinnewjersey

Joeinnewjersey

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 3, 2020
Messages
271
Location
New Jersey
Thanks again everybody for the advice and comments. I think I’m going to bring it in to my mechanic. This all looks like it is a little bit above my pay grade when it comes to repairs.
 
  • Dislike
Reactions: hear

TJ Jim

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2021
Messages
1,055
Location
Tennessee
Pull the drivers side fender off. Thirteen bolts and some wires and cables if you’ve got cruise. That makes it much easier to access the bolts on the exhaust manifold. It’ll save you a bunch of time and crying.
Get the felpro gasket as suggested above, the guide pins to reinstall are awesome.
Not too bad a job just relax and enjoy the wrench turning.
 

macleanflood

I break sh!t
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2021
Messages
1,078
Location
Fall Creek, OR
Don't let us scare you...you can do this...none of it's hard or too consequential. No special tools needed...just a handful of sockets and some patience.

Pm me if you want my number...happy to be on standby for pep talks, tech info or questionable advice.

I did my RMS for times before getting it right...four times I sealed up the oil pan. Get a Mopar RMS and red loctite not a Felpro RMS...but their oil pan gasket is awesome.

-Mac
 

NskLJ

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2021
Messages
1,292
Location
Long Beach
Don't let us scare you...you can do this
I did my RMS for times before getting it right

Mac I don’t know if you are instilling the most confidence! The oil pan looks like it will just fall out once the exhaust is removed. Exhaust isn’t too bad with a flex socket and long extension but mine in a California/ Arizona vehicle so no rust.
 

NskLJ

TJ Addict
Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 19, 2021
Messages
1,292
Location
Long Beach
I did manage to seal the oil pan successfully four times!

I just screwed up on the rear main. And you're not going that far!

You can do it!

-Mac

I’m not the OP, I just read your response and thought it a little funny. I do need to do my oil pan gasket though. When I get some time after the first of the year.
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood