Replacing Rear Stock Control Arms: Tips for a Newbie?

[CMD Z]

Looking for tips to replace these components myself on a stock 2005 LJ (53,000 miles). Did some research and it seems pretty straightforward (4 arms, 2 bolts each, mind the e-brake cables). Also looks like you can just do this on the ground. But it appears there's one tricky bit: the axle is likely to shift enough to make it difficult to get the second bolt in for each control arm. The two suggestions to address this were:

- Use a ratchet strap to pull it back into place
- Use a "porta-power" ... no idea what this ... to pull/push it back into place

Questions:
- Couldn't you just put a couple of straps on the axle to begin with to keep it from shifting in the first place?
- Any other tips to make sure this goes smoothly? (is thread lock or anti-seize recommended, easier done on jacks with the wheels off, etc.)

Background:
Bad clunk when going from forward<->reverse. The right rear upper control arm bushing is shot, all the rest are cracking, but otherwise fine. Local shop quoted $450 to replace the upper and lower passenger side rear control arms. I'd prefer to do both sides ($900). Found a new set of 4 for less than $100. Though new to vehicle DIY, I've already replaced the shocks, drag link, tie rod and all sway bar end links. Some swearing was involved. I found enough YouTube videos to understand these other repairs pretty well before tackling them. When it comes to stock rear control arms, the resources are sparse and are mostly composed of "how to install adjustable control arms" and only focus on setting the length.

 

[boostedv6]

Sometimes all you need to do is get a jack on the bumper to lift up a little bit to get the holes to line up.

 

[CMD Z]

Sometimes all you need to do is get a jack on the bumper to lift up a little bit to get the holes to line up.

 

[jesseshoots]

You should have limited problems if you install while on the ground and only do one arm at a time. A ratchet strap and jack will be your friend if it does shift. If you did the steering components you can do this.

Just remember to properly torque all the bolts when the arms are all in. Those torque values are linked below.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-torque-specs-1997-2006.16906/

 

[Irun]

This ^^^ Also, since it's your 1st time, it doesn't hurt to have a friend help line up the bolts while you operate the jack or ratchet strap.

 

[Mikeythemikster]

Get yourself a reciprocating saw the bolts usually endup seized into the steel inserts in the rubber bushings.

 

[bobthetj03]

Roll the jeep on flat ground in 1st gear, 4LO. Set the park brake, then do one at a time. Shouldn't move much if any. If it does shift a little and won't line up, put a small block of wood on a floor jack and jack at either the lower shock mount or just behind the pinion yoke on the housing to move in the direction needed.

 

[Mikeythemikster]

Get yourself a reciprocating saw the bolts usually endup seized into the steel inserts in the rubber bushings.

I switched out all my uppers and lowers front and back and had to cut all 4 lowers out

 

[Irun]

I switched out all my uppers and lowers front and back and had to cut all 4 lowers out

This one is so true. I just pulled a rear for a friend and had to cut the two lower control arm bolts and heat the axle side track bar bolt cherry red to remove it. Not fun!

 

[Midtenn]

You can also he-man the axle instead of using a ratchet strap. Manually shifting the axle while lining up the bolt hole is not easy and do not suggest. When I replace my front lowers, I'm using a ratchet strap.

 

[pagrey]

On an LJ close to stock it is very easy. If you do one at a time the axle can't shift much. I've even done it on an inclined driveway. Just put wheel chocks on the front wheels. Put it in drive or reverse and you can shift the axle forward and back if you need to.

 

[LukesfirstJeep]

I replaced the upper rear control arms on my LJ, one at a time with no axle shift. Maybe I got lucky.

 

[glowell222]

I Liquid Wrenched my control arm bolts every night for about a week and this was the key to a relatively easy removal. I replaced all of the bolts-there were none that I felt could be re-used.

 

[Goatman]

Every Jeep has a different history. Your bolts may come right out, or may be seized in place. Be prepared for either. Replace arms 1 at a time. Take the old arm out, set new arm to same length (or use stock replacement arms) and then install the new one. You should have minimal alignment problems if you do 1 at a time.
If you get stock replacements be sure to get the entire arm with bushings installed (front uppers will need separate bushings for axle side). Don't waste your time trying to get new bushings to press into your old arms.
Having a buddy around to help with a third hand, especially if he/she has some mechanical experience is a real good idea. Have cold refreshments ready before you start. You may need them sooner than later.

 

[CMD Z]

UPDATE

Thanks to all that provided suggestions. This went very smoothly. This LJ spent its entire life in sunny SoCal, so removing bolts was a breeze.

There was zero axle shift for the upper control arms (CA). The first lower CA shifted quite a bit and lifting the bumper didn't help in my case. A ratchet strap got it close enough to screw the bolt in. On the second lower CA, I added the ratchet strap first and the axle held in place... so well, in fact, that the bolt went straight in.

The only thing I wasn't entirely sure about was the bolts on the axle side of the upper control arms. When I tried to take them out, the springs blocked them. I was able to use a mallet and screwdriver to coax the bolt head over and past the spring, but it didn't seem like I'd be able to put them back in while trying to line up the CA. After inspecting the CA mount, it doesn't appear that it matters if the bolt is on the inside (stock) or outside (easier to install without lifting the Jeep and removing the wheel). I went with the easy route.

They haven't fallen off yet, but I'll post a warning if they do.

Another note: I replaced these while trying to chase down a "clunk" in the rear passenger side. It only happens once after changing from forward<->reverse and then applying the brakes with some gusto. The CAs looked a little cracked, but didn't really feel too loose. A local shop claimed that the upper CA was "torn up". Pulled them all out and they look just fine. BUT, the clunk is STILL THERE! Still happy I did the replacement, but a little bummed that I can't trust the shop anymore. Very happy I did the job myself for $100, instead of paying them $900-1,000...

 

[jesseshoots]

I would double check that all the bolts are torqued properly and also check the track bar bolts. I had some clunking in the rear that was caused by my axle side track bar bolt not being fully tightened.

 

[Abrao865d]

Did you notice any benefits of replacing the control arms?

 

[WallyWest]

Check lower shock bolts, one of mine was a bit loose and caused a clunk.

 

[CMD Z]

I would double check that all the bolts are torqued properly and also check the track bar bolts. I had some clunking in the rear that was caused by my axle side track bar bolt not being fully tightened.

Thanks, I'll check the track bar bolts, too. Already checked the track bar for any slop, tugged and pushed pretty hard on it... it didn't move or make a sound, but the Jeep was a swaying'.

 

[CMD Z]

Did you notice any benefits of replacing the control arms?

Any benefit or ride improvement wasn't really noticeable [probably too focused on that damn clunk mocking me]. There's a little peace of mind that they're new and that warm fuzzy feeling you get from a successful DIY.