Request: Your tips tricks and hard learned lessons for a frame up rebuild

DaEbLe

DaEbLe

Member
Joined
May 7, 2019
Messages
35
Location
Michigan
Hey everyone. I am attempting my first ever jeep rebuild. I am diving right in ambitiously, having never wrenched on a jeep; and now, doing a frame up rebuild.

I would love any links, tips, tricks or hard learned lessons you had found either pre or post build.

I have read lots in this forum and the things I always find different are regarding people changing things on existing builds and using that as their metric for it's worthiness. An example is trying to figure out what cam I should go with. The threads I found spoke to it not being worth the change.. but my current block doesn't have a cam, so one is needed regardless. Therefore finding one with maybe a bit better power, even marginal, is worth it. I need a new manifold/header, but in reality it will be a full system. Threads here speak to ease or fitting into existing setup or problems with rigidity of header to pipe and 4L torque. I have not welded any of the exhaust hangers to frame yet so all is negotiable.

The dirty for reference:
98' sport. Plan to use for rock crawling, then give to daughter later in life once she gaines permission to terrorize other drivers. Want to add enough power to engine to compensate for added rotating weight and hanging weight. Attempt to keep geometry good, but also keep powertrain tucked up as high as possible to give ground clearance for mentioned boulders.

Frame: Being shortened from non rusted yj? Motor mounts custom built into frame. Beefed up all suspension and arm linkage areas. Welded in front and rear steel bumpers. Welded into frame nuts for full length 1/4" plate steel skid plate with obvious needed cutouts. I welcome other found convenient holes and cutouts.

Motor: 4.0L went to machine shop to be checked and freshened from the 100k original miles. Cyinders bored .030.

Block and head decked .010. New pistons, wrist pins fit to care for known issues. Rods trued and weighed to balance. MLS gasket to account for decking.

Crank conditioned and balanced. New bearings. New arp main bolts.

Head (0630) assembled and springs tested at 55lbs. Plan to at very least gasket match the ports. Optional- comp cams had an off road cam that requires different springs and seals to accommodate a .450 lift.

Front axle: ultimate dana 44 including e-locker, trussed, chrome moly axles, and I believe a 5.12 gear (can't remember if it is a 5.12 or 5.11)

Rear axle: dana 44 with matching gear ratio and disc brakes. Needs e-locker, trussing, and chrome moly axles.

Future plans (at least until forum guidance shows me better/proper) in order of planned completion. Please feel free to fill holes/gaps noticed, give any advice, tips, links, or even change order to ease my build!

  • Build motor (Waiting on cam research) upcoming week.
  • Weld rest of frame pieces and rear axle trusses. Send frame and axle housing out for zinc infused epoxy coating.
  • Rebuild 32RH, new torque converter. Find proper sye.
  • Buy and install suspension package, wheels and tires.
  • Assemble rolling chassis.
  • Debating fuel cell or using on hand factory fuel tank.
  • Radiator, oil cooler, trans cooler (not sure on ac system or not.
  • Plum system. (Notice how generic)
  • Cut out and replace rusted and unfixable body pieces.
  • Install body to chassis linkages and electronics
  • Buy flat fenders w/inner fenders to attach front clip.
  • Bedline (lizard coating) underbody and interior floor.
  • Mate body and chassis.
  • Build custom roll cage and find acceptable rocker rock guards and install.
  • Install interior pieces. Buy and install new front seats with 5 point harness.
  • Pull out of driveway, hope for best.
I am hoping this thread might become an aggregate of information to those that might tackle similar aggressive builds.

Thanks for taking the time to read!
 
This is just the kid in me that has way to much of a budget, but if you have the engine apart, why not stroke it? I think it’s a 4.2l crank. (There’s a great episode on YouTube I’ll find and link) Then do ported heads and intake and a better exhaust, tune and you could easily get more power, or if you want all the power, do the above and a boost cam with a turbo, you’ll have more than enough then.
 
@jodomcfrodo basically did an entire frame-up rebuild. He paid someone to do the labor (I would too), but I'm sure he has some insight on things he learned throughout the course of all that. That being said, I'm going to tag him just incase he wants to chime in.
 
KingCarGuyZ said:
This is just the kid in me that has way to much of a budget, but if you have the engine apart, why not stroke it? I think it’s a 4.2l crank. (There’s a great episode on YouTube I’ll find and link) Then do ported heads and intake and a better exhaust, tune and you could easily get more power, or if you want all the power, do the above and a boost cam with a turbo, you’ll have more than enough then.
Click to expand...

Here is that link, these guys are really good at building engines, 250hp sounds like More than enough to me, but guess it depends on what your doing, keep in mind that you have more in common with a Kabota tractor engine than a BMW I6 and build accordingly.
 
Seems like a complicated build so I can’t add much, but did I read correctly that you are doing a YJ frame? Seems like a lot of extra effort for a worse frame.
 
Tag, bag, and label EVERYTHING! Even if the bag has 1 screw in it. Keep track of each step so you are sure to not forget that 1 screw until you realize you have to un-do 4 hours of assembly work to put that screw in. Every step write down what and where. And any tricky bits in that step. It can seem like a waste of time, but can save your bacon later on. Now with cell phones all over take pictures of everything. And tag the photo with what step in the log book it shows. Be clean and precise. If you find a part that is sorta ok replace it now.
 
jodomcfrodo said:
Seems like a complicated build so I can’t add much, but did I read correctly that you are doing a YJ frame? Seems like a lot of extra effort for a worse frame.
Click to expand...
You did read it correctly. I am in michigan, land of rust. I found this one from down south with no rust. I am hoping to piece it together properly.

I appreciate the advice thus far. I have bagged most stuff as well as pictures of it all together.
 
meet your new best friend:

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DaEbLe said:
You did read it correctly. I am in michigan, land of rust. I found this one from down south with no rust. I am hoping to piece it together properly.

I appreciate the advice thus far. I have bagged most stuff as well as pictures of it all together.
Click to expand...

Took me a while to find my TJ frame from down south. Can’t imagine that swapping in a YJ frame is going to be all that simple, but it can probably be done. I’d still try to find a TJ frame just to simplify any mods that you would want to buy from a company (like a raised transfer case skid or engine skid).
 
The YJ frame (tub too) saw a lot of zinc during it's time in the factory. CJs saw little to (I think) none. And obviously TJs didn't continue the zinc treatments. Don't know why. They already had the system in place. Just cheap penny pinching I guess.
 
Just to give a small update. Found a cool trick to get the rods to set nicely on the crank. 2 8" pieces of rubber fuel line guided the rods down nicely.
Also for anyone looking lunati has a custom grind camshaft that will fit with stock lifters and springs. Stated also no issues with the computer. Only minor hiccup is valve springs need to be at least 80lbs. Stock lift is .408, new cam is .459.
 
Springs should be replaced anyway on an engine with high enough mileage to need a rebuild. Lunati has an excellent reputation.
 
Frame is back in one piece. Next I have to figure out dimensions on where to locate the rear shock mounts.

Might go find the nearest TJ and climb under it with a tape measure.

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Sorry for the slow update. Work pulled me away from the garage for too long. Here is the updated frame. Only thing left on the frame is suspension geometry to weld up brackets before sending the frame to be coated.

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