Rescue6's 1999 Jeep Wrangler Sport

Built a custom driver side seat base to lower my seating position. I’m 6’5” tall so when I added the PRP seats and adapter brackets it raised my head up to close to the main hoop of the roll bar. So I ditched the fold and tumble bracket for a non folding bracket. Then cut 1.5” of the top. Cut a piece of 2.25”x2.25” - 3/16” thick angle iron up to shape and welded it to the lower part of the brackets. I then remounted the sliders and seat. It is a much more comfortable seating position. I’m no longer in contact with the roll bar. And I’m now able to see the stoplights without leaning down or looking over the top of the windshield frame. Hahaha

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Couple picks I got a Rogue Fab bender, made a roll bar. Pic of my wife’s stirrup step, the Atlas rear support I still have not installed yet. And a rear bumper I’m playing around with making.

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Well the Jeep will be going under the knife this winter for a bunch of upgrades to suspension and to the body. Since I’ve decided to build a tube buggy the ORI’s and big axles will be going in that. And I’ll keep the RJ 60 and the CORE44 in the Jeep. Work will include valved 12” Fox race series shocks, front and rear will get longer shock towers, new Currie 4” Springs front and rear, 3” front stretch with 3 link, new hood, new cowl, Genright highline 4” flare aluminum fenders with inners, Genright flak jacket tub armor, Genright mini boat side stretch rock sliders, Genright rear blank aluminum corner guards since the rear is stretched already and I have the Rockmen tailgate, aluminum Genright rear flares, Genright aluminum under tailgate armor, Genright windshield frame armor, New Rocklights to install, building a freestanding transmission and transfer case mount, New UCF ultra clearance belly skid and engine skid, Genright raised body mounts to get rid of the body lift pucks on the sides. I’ll eventually do the rear frame mod also. And a paint job for the tub and possibly painting the armor. I’m undecided on that at the moment. I’m sure I’m forgetting a few things also.

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This is an awesome purpose built rig!
 
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I’ll just say I was going through two sets of spicers a year and these are still solid after a little over a year of abuse.

Good to hear and might help others who are running a larger tire.

I've been bugging Josh about getting the old school Dana 30/Dana 44 ball joint eliminators done as I'd like to run them on my axle.
 
Good to hear and might help others who are running a larger tire.

I've been bugging Josh about getting the old school Dana 30/Dana 44 ball joint eliminators done as I'd like to run them on my axle.
Yeah I had been bugging him for about two years prior to volunteering to be a test pig.
 
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Since I’ve made the decision to not bastardize my Jeep any further and build a full tube chassis buggy for the big axles I’ve been slowly piecing together. I’ve got some decisions to make. I’ll continue to put the aluminum armor and fenders on, along with the new suspension and paint job. But it’s time to decide on new tires or tires and wheels. Since 35” tires seems to be the biggest size you can get a “decent” tire choice for a 15” rim. Like a Baja boss, km3, MTR, etc. Yes Interco makes some and I’ve not been happy with this last set of IROK’s, my first set was great though, Maxxis makes a 37 or 38 for nearly $500 each or there is a 37x14.5R15 Toyo I believe that’s way too wide. I’ve either gotta go back down to the 35” tires and keep my Spyder lock beadlocks or I’m gonna have to buy new wheels and tires to go 17” and 37” tires. Overall tires themselves are obviously at least $150 more expensive each for the 37” tires and it’s expected since they are larger. But wheels is what’s making me question wether to go back to 35” tires. Ive been on the larger 36” and 37” tires for quite a few years now and with the Jeep getting the Genright Highlines I already purchased this winter I’m afraid it’s going to look silly on 35” tires but if Im honest I can do all the trails I enjoy on 35” tires and it may even make them more fun and challenging again. The biggest advantage the 17” wheels would give me is that I could go up the the 16” rotors on my big brake kit. Any thoughts? I sure like the thought of $250-$300 each tire prices of the 35x12.50R15 tires vs. the $415-$475 a piece for the 37x12.50R17 plus the cost of wheels $650 for cheap steel or $2500 beadlocks what do you thing. With the 35” tires look silly with the Highlines and the 5” rear stretch and 2” front stretch? I know I’ll have the suspension set up to need them over my current standard height tube fenders.