Reverse to Drive sputter / stall

EJD

TJ Overlander
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Ok, so this has happened to me a few times now where "only" when my Jeep is parked for a good amount of time, I start the Jeep, throw it in reverse, begin backing up, put it in drive, and (right at that transition from reverse to drive) I get a little sputter like it wants to stall out and one time it did stall out.

I guess i'm wondering what is happening? Does anyone know what i'm trying to describe or has this sort of thing ever happened to anyone else here?

It does not happen then going from drive back into reverse, or even if I was to simulate the exact situation again after the Jeep has been running for a little bit, it would not do it again. It's like it only does this after its been sitting a while, and upon a first reverse to drive situation.
 
Also this has only happened within the past couple weeks, not for the past 9 months i've owned it. Not sure if that helps narrow it down to something failing or because i've recently put 93 octane in it cause the gas station was out of everything else...
 
Jumping on here: Mine does this as well, I have noticed that if I let my engine idle for a bit before I head out that I do not stall going from reverse to drive. I personally do not know what an IAC is, and I have no idea when it and/or my throttle body was last cleaned...
 
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When is the last time you cleaned your IAC or throttle body?
Ok so you know I just cleaned my IAC and throttle body the other day, and it stalled out in the same fashion on me tonight leaving work.

This seems very weird because it only happens when shifting from (reverse to drive) and only after its been parked for a while.

For example: If I were to pull into my driveway and back out to the street then shift to drive right now if would be fine. If I did that same motion 50 times in a row, it would be fine. But tomorrow when I go to work (after its been sitting over night), and I back out and shift to drive...it will definitely sputter like it wants to stall or it will actually stall out.
 
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Jumping on here: Mine does this as well, I have noticed that if I let my engine idle for a bit before I head out that I do not stall going from reverse to drive.
I'm glad i'm not alone here, but feel bad that its happening to you too. Is whats happening to your Jeep the same as i'm describing?

As weird as it sounds I think its more likely to stall if its cold outside verses a warm day. I think these particular symptoms may actually help pinpoint the issue. I know it seems less likely do stall if it idles for a bit too, but even then its not a guarantee.
 
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Ok so you know I just cleaned my IAC and throttle body the other day, and it stalled out in the same fashion on me tonight leaving work.

This seems very weird because it only happens when shifting from (reverse to drive) and only after its been parked for a while.

For example: If I were to pull into my driveway and back out to the street then shift to drive right now if would be fine. If I did that same motion 50 times in a row, it would be fine. But tomorrow when I go to work (after its been sitting over night), and I back out and shift to drive...it will definitely sputter like it wants to stall or it will actually stall out.

When was the last time your transmission fluid was changed? I would change it if you don't know the answer.

If that doesn't help, there's a chance that your torque converter in the transmission could be binding up on you. That's not good, that means you'd need a transmission rebuild.
 
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When was the last time your transmission fluid was changed? I would change it if you don't know the answer.

If that doesn't help, there's a chance that your torque converter in the transmission could be binding up on you. That's not good, that means you'd need a transmission rebuild.
Ok, I have no maintenance log from the previous owner so I have no clue if/when the transmission fluid has ever been changed...I'm doing as much maintenance as possible and constantly finding things that need it so I have to just take everything as it comes and hope for the best.

From time to time I have noticed a little jump in the transmission going from 1st to 2nd but only recently as well, (I have an auto by the way), but that is only if it didn't have time to warm up a little. If I let the Jeep idle in park for a few before driving, things seem to be ok or closer towards ok.

I don't suppose there is a tutorial here on changing transmission fluid is there? I'de definitely like to start there asap then.
 
That little jump between first and second while the engine is cold seems to be normal on almost all automatic transmissions. Hell, we have a Honda Odyssey minivan as our daily driver, and when I take it out in the morning it does the same thing with the jump from first to second gear. One it's at operating temperature though it never does it again.

So, I have to assume that's normal since my Jeep does it, my Odyssey does it, and our old Honda CR-V did it as well (all automatic transmissions).

As for the transmission, you'll want to take it to a shop. They have a special machine that can flush the fluid (all of it) out, and out new fluid in it's place.

I say this because most people would assume that you can just drop the transmission pan and get all the fluid out that way. Sure, you'll get fluid out, but only about half of it. The rest of it will be stuck in the lines, torque convertor, etc.

Professional shops have machines that will hook up to the lines and pump new fluid in while it's pumping the old stuff out. Hell, even Jiffy Lube and Oil Can Henry's have these machines and charge around $100 for it. It's worth it though.

Back when I was 16, my first job was at Oil Can Henry's changing oil. I would regularly use those transmission flush machines and it wasn't hard. I would see the fluid they would push out of the transmissions (into a clear catch can), and it was almost always dirty.
 
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That little jump between first and second while the engine is cold seems to be normal on almost all automatic transmissions. Hell, we have a Honda Odyssey minivan as our daily driver, and when I take it out in the morning it does the same thing with the jump from first to second gear. One it's at operating temperature though it never does it again.

So, I have to assume that's normal since my Jeep does it, my Odyssey does it, and our old Honda CR-V did it as well (all automatic transmissions).

As for the transmission, you'll want to take it to a shop. They have a special machine that can flush the fluid (all of it) out, and out new fluid in it's place.

I say this because most people would assume that you can just drop the transmission pan and get all the fluid out that way. Sure, you'll get fluid out, but only about half of it. The rest of it will be stuck in the lines, torque convertor, etc.

Professional shops have machines that will hook up to the lines and pump new fluid in while it's pumping the old stuff out. Hell, even Jiffy Lube and Oil Can Henry's have these machines and charge around $100 for it. It's worth it though.

Back when I was 16, my first job was at Oil Can Henry's changing oil. I would regularly use those transmission flush machines and it wasn't hard. I would see the fluid they would push out of the transmissions (into a clear catch can), and it was almost always dirty.
Thanks for the insight!, i'll have to do some homework and shop around then.
 
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i am thinking about doing a transmission flush as well. the person i bought it from said all the fluids were good, but if i were to do a transmission flush again, it wouldnt be overkill would it? i have 94k miles on mine, i cant recall when the fluid is supposed to be changed anyhow.
 
i am thinking about doing a transmission flush as well. the person i bought it from said all the fluids were good, but if i were to do a transmission flush again, it wouldnt be overkill would it? i have 94k miles on mine, i cant recall when the fluid is supposed to be changed anyhow.

Check the fluid on the transmission dipstick first and see what color it is. If it's dark and murky, I would change it just to be safe.
 
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Check the fluid on the transmission dipstick first and see what color it is. If it's dark and murky, I would change it just to be safe.
I actually just checked my fluid and it seems correct. Pinkish-Clear.
What I did discover was that my fluid was about 1/2"-3/4" above the MAX line.
I read what happens if tranny fluid is overfilled, and it says things can act very erratic and result in oil deprivation.
I assume the max line means, not higher that that line. So maybe I siphon a little out...see what happens.

I'de be curious to see what level @darkangel07760 level is.
 
Yes, pinkish-clear is good.

However, get some of that transmission fluid out of there. You don't want it to be overfilled, that can lead to issues.
 
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Yes, pinkish-clear is good.

However, get some of that transmission fluid out of there. You don't want it to be overfilled, that can lead to issues.
I hear that been doing some homework on the topic, and I may try that first before I do anything else and just see if any changes happen after.

I need a small siphon though...
 
Ok so you know I just cleaned my IAC and throttle body the other day, and it stalled out in the same fashion on me tonight leaving work.

This seems very weird because it only happens when shifting from (reverse to drive) and only after its been parked for a while.

For example: If I were to pull into my driveway and back out to the street then shift to drive right now if would be fine. If I did that same motion 50 times in a row, it would be fine. But tomorrow when I go to work (after its been sitting over night), and I back out and shift to drive...it will definitely sputter like it wants to stall or it will actually stall out.
I completely understand what you’re writing bc mine is doing the exact same thing now. I have an auto 4.0 I6 and when I come back from work & it’s in the garage there is no issues. Once I start up in the morning then roll it down the drive-way then move it into drive from reverse it will sputter hard like it’s about to die out or sometimes it dies out completely. Did you ever find the cause....please help!
 
I completely understand what you’re writing bc mine is doing the exact same thing now. I have an auto 4.0 I6 and when I come back from work & it’s in the garage there is no issues. Once I start up in the morning then roll it down the drive-way then move it into drive from reverse it will sputter hard like it’s about to die out or sometimes it dies out completely. Did you ever find the cause....please help!
Oh I have the cure thats for sure!
You need to replace your power brake booster.

There is a diaphragm inside the brake booster that warps after time and in colder weather (like mornings) when you hit the brake pedal it flexes the diaphragm and creates a vacuum leak causing the stall.

You can test this by bypassing the brake booster in the morning by disconnecting the big hose coming off of it and plugging it with something (I used a sharpie, it fit perfectly), then doing a reverse to drive thing in your driveway and seeing that it will not stall out. Just be careful when testing that in that fashion as you do not have brakes really. Do it in a controlled place, where no one can get hurt.

I replaced mine and the issue went away instantly. That took me a ton of troubleshooting to figure that out, but yes, that is whats wrong. Its a vacuum leak from within the power brake booster. Any questions along the way, just ask! I had a ton of people help me out and i'll be glad to pay it forward. ;)
 
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Oh I have the cure thats for sure!
You need to replace your power brake booster.

There is a diaphragm inside the brake booster that warps after time and in colder weather (like mornings) when you hit the brake pedal it flexes the diaphragm and creates a vacuum leak causing the stall.

You can test this by bypassing the brake booster in the morning by disconnecting the big hose coming off of it and plugging it with something (I used a sharpie, it fit perfectly), then doing a reverse to drive thing in your driveway and seeing that it will not stall out. Just be careful when testing that in that fashion as you do not have brakes really. Do it in a controlled place, where no one can get hurt.

I replaced mine and the issue went away instantly. That took me a ton of troubleshooting to figure that out, but yes, that is whats wrong. Its a vacuum leak from within the power brake booster. Any questions along the way, just ask! I had a ton of people help me out and i'll be glad to pay it forward. ;)
Awesome! I will definitely do that Thanks a Million