Review: Auxbeam Bluetooth-Enabled 8-Circuit Switch Panel

jscherb

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Auxbeam recently released a new Bluetooth-enabled switch panel. It's similar to other Auxbeam switch panels I've reviewed in the past, but this one can be controlled from a smartphone app via Bluetooth and also has configurable color settings for the switch backlights and configurable switch actions. They sent me one to test and review, it arrived the other day:

BluetoothPanelBox.jpg


BluetoothPanelBoxOpen.jpg


The contents of the kit:

BlueToothKitContents.jpg


The control unit is in the center of the photo above, and clockwise from top left there's a selection of mounting brackets for various locations, a 60-amp circuit breaker, the switch panel, various wiring components and hardware, instructions, switch faces and a bunch of zip ties.

The instructions are thorough:

BluetoothInstructions.jpg


The QR Codes at the top right of the photo above are links to the app for both Android phones and iPhones. I downloaded, installed and tested both the Android and the iPhone versions.

Wiring is straightforward, this is the wiring diagram from the instructions:

BluetoothInstructionsWiring.jpg


The kit comes with 60 removable switch labels; I put a random selection of them on the panel for this test.

SwitchPanelLabels.jpg


A closer look at the control unit.

ControlUnit.jpg


The control unit is all solid state and all of the electronics are "potted" to protect them from the environment. There are six outputs, and the total load across all six must total 60 amps or less. The instructions say "the maximum output current of 1 & 2 is 30a and the maximum output current of 3-8 is 20a." They don't say why, but my assumption is that the semiconductors passing the power through outputs 1 and 2 are more highly rated than those on outputs 3-8. A table in the instructions shows the maximum amperage recommended for each output so that information should be followed when assigning devices to the outputs.

I connected everything on the workbench. Instead of an automotive battery for this test, I used a benchtop power supply. I connected a small LED pod to output 1 for this test. One feature I really like is an LED that will light when the fuse in that circuit is blown (see the diagram above). Another nice feature - there are spare fuses and a fuse puller inside the cover of the control unit, so if you're in the field and need a fuse, you've got them. In this next photo circuit 1 is switched on, powering the LED pod. The benchtop power supply is out of the picture to the right:

InitialTestF.jpg


Auxbeam has a video on their web site showing how everything gets connected, including a demonstration of the unit controlling multiple lights:


With the initial test done, I tried to use the app to configure and control the switch panel. Initially I had some trouble getting the switch panel app to talk to the switch control. Every Bluetooth device I've ever connected to with my Android phone required that the device be paired with the phone first in order to use it, so I paired the phone with the switch panel but I couldn't get the app to work. This works differently - if you first pair the device with the phone, the app will not be able to connect to the switch panel. The procedure is:

  1. Turn on Bluetooth on the phone.
  2. DON'T pair the switch panel with the phone.
  3. Open the app and tap the Bluetooth icon (left photo below).
  4. Turn on Bluetooth in the app (center photo)
  5. When the switch panel appears, tap the word "connect" (right photo).

ConnectingAndroid.jpg


After getting this to work, I tried the same on the iPhone. Based on what I learned with the Android, I didn't try to pair the iPhone with the switch panel, I just followed the procedure above and the app connected just fine. I've suggested to Auxbeam that they update the instructions to say that pairing is not required - many people, who are accustomed to pairing Bluetooth devices before they use them, will probably pair the device first like I did and will not succeed in getting the app to connect to the switch panel.

With the app working, a quick test controlling one of the circuits from the app:


Features of the app include:
  • Turn circuits on or off
  • Change the color and brightness of the switch backlighting
  • Change the labels and names on the switches on the switch panel image on the phone (but not on the switch panel itself). Photos can be used as switch labels.
  • Change the operation mode of each switch:
    • On/off
    • Momentary (useful perhaps for something like a horn)
    • Pulsed (can turn a light into a flasher, perhaps for first responder use)
  • Grouping switches. Multiple switches can be grouped to operate together. Useful if the amperage of the devices to be turned on exceeds the capacity of one circuit in the panel.

I went through all the features of the app and was going to do a video showing them all, but the features are shown very well in this video from Auxbeam so I'll link to that instead of doing my own video:


Installation in a Jeep first involves deciding where to mount the switch panel and the control unit. Brackets are provided for both, and they may or may not be needed depending on where you decide to mount things.

One place the switch panel can mount nicely is to the windshield frame trim panel above the mirror. In the left photo below I'm holding it up there in my JKU. Mounting it in the same place in the TJ looks pretty much the same, so I didn't include a TJ photo.

The right photo shows my phone in the holder it lives in when it's in the Jeep. Since the unit can be controlled directly from the app on the phone, one option would be to not mount the physical switch panel anywhere. It probably should be plugged in for all the circuitry to operate properly, but it could be stowed somewhere (under the seat?) and everything controlled from the app on the phone.

SwitchPanelMounting.jpg


Using the phone as the switch control might also be useful for turning things on or off from outside the Jeep - for example, at a camp site. From your chair next to the campfire you could turn on or off the campsite area lighting you've got attached to your roof rack.

The control unit is probably best mounted under the hood to keep the high power leads short. On the left below, I've set the unit on top of the JK's TIPM. It fits nicely there and clears the hood when closed. On the right, I've set it on top of the air cleaner box. Both of these locations would make for a simple installation, but there may be other places in the Jeep's engine compartment that suit your needs better.

ControlPanelMounting.jpg


Once the mounting is decided, the wiring is straightforward. A fuse tap is installed in the Jeep's fuse panel to provide switched power, the high power leads are connected from the battery to the control unit through the supplied 60-amp circuit breaker, and the switch panel wires are routed though the dash and connected to the switch panel. Once that's done, devices can be connected to the outputs of the control unit.

I experimented with the different switch modes (on/off, momentary, pulsed) and grouping switches and found the various options to work as advertised. For my use, I probably won't need those options, but I'm sure people will find uses for all of the options.

At about half the price of an SPOD (less than half if you factor in the $135 SPOD Bluetooth option) this switch panel is well worth consideration. And if you don't need the Bluetooth capability, Auxbeam has 6 and 8 switch panels available without Bluetooth that are less expensive (the six switch non-Bluetooth unit is on their web site for about $140 as I write this).

The switch panel can be found at: https://auxbeam.com/products/ar-800-multifunction-rgb-switch-panel-system-qp008526

On last tip: Customizing the switch panel - if the 60 supplied switch labels don't provide what you need to label your switches, you can make your own labels. Earlier this year I reviewed a six-switch panel from Auxbeam, it doesn't have Bluetooth control and is different in a number of other features, but the switch labels are the same and in that review I described how to make custom switch labels in case you need a label that isn't provided in the kit. The same technique can be used to make labels for this panel: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/auxbeam-6-gang-on-off-control-switch-panel-kit-review.53068/
 
Thanks for the great review. I am about 70% through installing a similar unit made by NiRider. It's a six gang panel, without the BT connection and a third of the price of this unit. The control unit is quite a bit larger due to the six integral four and five pin relays versus the solid state relays in this unit). I added the breaker. That said, I am stuck getting the unit to control the accessories.. so that last 25% of install is on hold.

I like being able to control the accessories via BT, since I always have my iphone mounted. Adjusting the switch color is nice too. My stereo head unit has adjustable color accents that are set to match the NiRider unit and my dash so I have that covered.
 
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I have the non-BT version of this in my Jeep and love it.

I wired mine up to a switch instead of the ignition so I can turn it off/on when I want. I'm actually buying a second one to control devices inside the jeep. Makes wiring 100% easier.
 
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I'm guessing that none of these 'controllers' allow the switching of a ground (0v) signal?
Then you could send that output to the PCM to activate oem stuff.
 
I'm guessing that none of these 'controllers' allow the switching of a ground (0v) signal?
Then you could send that output to the PCM to activate oem stuff.

No, right out of the box since most of them enable a hot 12v circuit. But you could link that with a replay to produce a grounded signal.
 
A simple way to switch a ground signal is with a Bosch-style relay. Connect the coil (pin 86) to the output of the switch controller and pin 85 to ground to complete the coil circuit. Then connect pin 30 to ground and pin 87 (the normally open circuit of the relay) to the device that needs to be grounded. When the circuit in the switch controller is activated, that will power the relay, which will ground the output of the relay.

SwitchedGround.jpg


Another use for a relay with the switch controller - the maximum output of circuits 1 and 2 in this switch controller is 30 amps. If more power is needed for some accessory, use a 40-amp or higher Bosch relay wired as below and you can power an accessory that needs more amperage. I'd recommend also protecting that circuit with a fuse or circuit breaker between the relay and the 12v power source.

SwitchedHighPower.jpg


Here's an example of a higher-powered circuit - I run a second battery to power my fridge and kitchen so the kitchen never drains the main battery of the Jeep. I've wired it so that it's charged by the alternator by connecting it to the main battery, but it's a switched circuit - the kitchen battery is only connected to the main battery when the Jeep is running. Since the kitchen battery can draw up to 35 amps when charging when it's low, I use a 40 amp Bosch relay to disconnect it from the main battery when the Jeep is not running. When the Jeep is started, the Bosch relay connects the kitchen battery to the Jeep's charging system.

The fridge battery lives in a tray over the rear inner fender:

LJBatteryTray_zpsp8zkmagv.jpg


Next to the kitchen:

TrailKitchen4_zps4xvbn964.jpg
 
I have the non-BT version of this in my Jeep and love it.

I wired mine up to a switch instead of the ignition so I can turn it off/on when I want. I'm actually buying a second one to control devices inside the jeep. Makes wiring 100% easier.
Why would you want a switch to turn off a group of switches? What are you controlling with this bank of switches?
I'm guessing that none of these 'controllers' allow the switching of a ground (0v) signal?
Then you could send that output to the PCM to activate oem stuff.
Pretty sure the one I have switches the ground circuit.

Nirider Universal Circuit Control Box




What are the dimensions of the switch panel? I see the size in the image of it being held against the windshield header, but would like the exact size. I don't see listed on the Auxbeam website or any of the Amazon listings. Thanks!!
 
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I don't get this product or why it would be needed or even a good idea. To me it looks like someone said let's see how complex and expensive we can make a simple switch.
I love the size of the switch panels and I'm not familiar enough with the Auxbeam stuff, but if you switch on stuff a lot, or want to vary output of your lights or flash them or strobe the lights, then there is some benefit to not having relays. I'm not sure if this has relays or not though. From school I'm more used to different programing than the older relay logic, so for me the solid state stuff is great, except that it puts all of your eggs in 1 basket, though a basket that should essentially have an incredibly long life span and reliability. Do you really need the additional programming? Not really, but I certainly like the simple flashing of my amber lights that are much more noticeable than my OEM flashers, that seem to fail a-lot.

Personally I still use switches/relays too, because the lockers don't need to be strobed or anything.
 
I love the compact easy to install prewired nature of the whole thing. Plus it makes adding accessories easy in the future because your fuse relay and switch is already good to go. I don't see the need for Bluetooth unless its for switching on your RGB lights at the local car show.
Its way more compact and clean than the relay fuse set up I made 😅

45.jpg
 
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I don't get this product or why it would be needed or even a good idea. To me it looks like someone said let's see how complex and expensive we can make a simple switch.
What makes it attractive is having 4 wires go through the firewall to run 8 seperate switches.
 
I love the compact easy to install prewired nature of the whole thing. Plus it makes adding accessories easy in the future because your fuse relay and switch is already good to go. I don't see the need for Bluetooth unless its for switching on your RGB lights at the local car show.
Its way more compact and clean than the relay fuse set up I made 😅

View attachment 300390
I'd take that any day over the above Bluetooth Startrek Kludge Rube Goldberg device which adds way too much unnecessary complexity to a simple task. The more complexity added to an electronic circuit the less reliable it is.
 
I don't get this product or why it would be needed or even a good idea. To me it looks like someone said let's see how complex and expensive we can make a simple switch.
Don't forget - if it has to do with a smartphone, it just HAS TO BE a "good thing" (tm). I don't get it either, but then again, I don't get smartphones either. The damn thing has to be 1) ON, 2) paired, 3) the "App" has to be loaded and "focused", and 4) The battery has to have sufficient charge to run the BT radio.

Or I can simply press a standard switch and not worry about any of it - but smartphone people are gonna smartphone. I guess they need some kind of justification for their $1K+ every two years purchase.
 
Smartphone integration is not necessary though if does allow you to match the switch panel color to your dash if that's your thing. You can also hide the switch bank behind the dash and control everything from your smartphone which (many, not all) folks have out on the dash most of the time anyway.

Much easier to setup than eight Bosch relays and all the wiring. At least that's how I see it. The unit reviewed has solid state relays and the whole control unit is waterproof. The six gang unit sold by Auxbeam uses regular relays so the control unit is a little larger, but even so, it is so much easier to setup than all the individual relays, fuses, breakers and switch wiring.
 
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Yes - wiring individual switches/relays is a pain in the ass. But you only have to do it once. Having to deal with a smartphone every time I want to turn my "whatevers" on would grate on me by about the 3rd time I had to dig the fucking thing out - If I remembered to bring the stupid thing in the 1st place. Like I said, smartphone people are gonna smartphone. Whatever.
 
Yes - wiring individual switches/relays is a pain in the ass. But you only have to do it once. Having to deal with a smartphone every time I want to turn my "whatevers" on would grate on me by about the 3rd time I had to dig the fucking thing out - If I remembered to bring the stupid thing in the 1st place. Like I said, smartphone people are gonna smartphone. Whatever.
You do not have to EVER use your smart phone to use this product.
 
I could see Bluetooth being useful if you could install the app on a double din head unit and instead of mounting the switch panel in the jeep control everything with touch screen buttons.

Completely complicated but someone might like it.

I'd love to see a double din head unit with 6 to 8 camera inputs, recording capabilities, integrated switch relay system like this Auxbeam.

-Mac
 
Yes - wiring individual switches/relays is a pain in the ass. But you only have to do it once. Having to deal with a smartphone every time I want to turn my "whatevers" on would grate on me by about the 3rd time I had to dig the fucking thing out - If I remembered to bring the stupid thing in the 1st place. Like I said, smartphone people are gonna smartphone. Whatever.
Most of these don't require a smartphone, but you can use one if you'd like. The smartphone is typically just a way to easily program a controller in a way that is more straightforward than toggling through settings without a display.

Personally I prefer a MOSFET/solid state based switching, which is all programing and heat management and not based on multiple mechanical switches and more wiring for each "push of a button". I wouldn't even really have relays if there were more options since relays hate everything Jeeps are known for ie vibrations, dirt, debris, water, etc. There are obviously major disadvantages since they aren't common, but it's incredibly simple tech compared to the physical makeup of switches and relays, though seemingly simple.

I certainly like the idea of a bunch of relays wired together and properly sealed with a compact switch face compared to the price of the solid state switch devices. However IMO it's to each their own if they'd prefer to buy pre-wired or wire their own. Sometimes you can get a better bang for your buck and form factor from a company that is going to make hundreds/thousands vs 1. I haven't really looked. Sometimes when you piece together your own stuff you can also get better components if you know what you're doing.

Personally it's easier for me to program than it is to do relay logic or some of the older logic circuits that I've seen in so many books, but never once wired myself.

Take apart a few switches and relays and they're seldom a simple device you might see in an old Frankenstein movie, instead they truly are little Rube Goldberg machines.
 
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