Rope bulging out of thimble

LONGJP2

LONGJP2

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This came this way out of the box from Warn. No pulls have been made on it (by me).
Should I try to push it back in or cut it off and resplice?

20211001_132512.jpg


The other side looks OK.

20211001_132555.jpg
 
That thimble is not really for a rope. I would get a rope thimble that the rope threads through. TRE has a really nice thimble but any would be better than that, you risk cutting it when loaded.

I love my TRE!

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Here is a example of a thimble too:

crush_proof_thimble_2-copy-1000x1000w.jpg
 
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Looks like it's doing the same thing as mine.
Although, the edges don't look as sharp. :)

61iGFnAlC2L._SL1000_.jpg



Also, one of the reviews say it's not big enough for 3/8 rope.
 
In person, it is very different, the rope thimble has tubes the rope fits through, the warn version you show does not, it only protects half the rope. The edges on the rope thimble are pretty smooth compared to the wire rope thimble warn used.

This is what yours looks like out of the rope, this is a wire rope thimble:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H688CSS/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
I understand all that. Both thimbles are advertised for synthetic and wire rope.
IMO, the problem with syn. for a given size (like 3/8) it expands when not tensioned. So it bulges out of a 3/8 thimble, and doesn't 'fit' as well as the wire rope of the same size.
 
It looking like crap is one thing, working like crap is another. Are breaks near the thimble common with this style? Either way learning how to make the loop is worthwhile regardless of the thimble. If it breaks on the trail you don't need a thimble at all in my opinion. You'll get a few pulls on plain rope and you can research other options when you get home.
 
LONGJP2 said:
Looks like it's doing the same thing as mine.
Although, the edges don't look as sharp. :)

View attachment 286903


Also, one of the reviews say it's not big enough for 3/8 rope.
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Ok, google is your friend, find one that has reviews you are good with. I was just showing what the difference is. The one you have is NOT for synthetic rope. Be careful.
 
pagrey said:
It looking like crap is one thing, working like crap is another. Are breaks near the thimble common with this style? Either way learning how to make the loop is worthwhile regardless of the thimble. If it breaks on the trail you don't need a thimble at all in my opinion. You'll get a few pulls on plain rope and you can research other options when you get home.
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Threading the thimble is sooooo easy once you know how. I think the tool is called a fid. A gutted sharpie is what it looks like.
 
WSS said:
That is some huge rope!
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Same size TRE sells. It's been a challenge to get that knot down but a good learning experience. I bought some ATV synthetic winch line and have been tying knots in that for my kayak. Someday I'll make the switch on my Jeep.
 
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Blackjack said:
Yep I would rather they go back to a soft eye than use the crap they are right now.
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I had occasion to splice on 2 thimbles recently. One was on some of the early line they included, one was a recent purchase. If you have handled line you can pretty much tell where it was made. The early almost certainly has to be Samson, has the same soft hand, fibers are easily snagged with the fid, doesn't open up very far when you shove the fid through. If you aren't using a pusher, it is very hard to milk the outer braid over the fid and down onto the tail. It is also very slippery which makes it harder.

Contrary to the latest stuff which is either coming out of China or they copied it exactly. Stiffer, heavier hand, opens up easier, very easy to splice, fid goes right through.

Someone really needs to sit down and have a chat with their technical department. You can NOT spec out a line length that used to work, increase the actual line diameter and shove that in this ginormous "heat" guard without adding bulk. It is ridiculous that they miss the basics now. Owner get a bit grumpy when they see me hack off 15' of their expensive line just to almost not overfill the drum.
 
mrblaine said:
I had occasion to splice on 2 thimbles recently. One was on some of the early line they included, one was a recent purchase. If you have handled line you can pretty much tell where it was made. The early almost certainly has to be Samson, has the same soft hand, fibers are easily snagged with the fid, doesn't open up very far when you shove the fid through. If you aren't using a pusher, it is very hard to milk the outer braid over the fid and down onto the tail. It is also very slippery which makes it harder.

Contrary to the latest stuff which is either coming out of China or they copied it exactly. Stiffer, heavier hand, opens up easier, very easy to splice, fid goes right through.

Someone really needs to sit down and have a chat with their technical department. You can NOT spec out a line length that used to work, increase the actual line diameter and shove that in this ginormous "heat" guard without adding bulk. It is ridiculous that they miss the basics now. Owner get a bit grumpy when they see me hack off 15' of their expensive line just to almost not overfill the drum.
Click to expand...
Sooo, what do you do with those 15’ drops? 🤷‍♂️
 
mrblaine said:
I had occasion to splice on 2 thimbles recently. One was on some of the early line they included, one was a recent purchase. If you have handled line you can pretty much tell where it was made. The early almost certainly has to be Samson, has the same soft hand, fibers are easily snagged with the fid, doesn't open up very far when you shove the fid through. If you aren't using a pusher, it is very hard to milk the outer braid over the fid and down onto the tail. It is also very slippery which makes it harder.

Contrary to the latest stuff which is either coming out of China or they copied it exactly. Stiffer, heavier hand, opens up easier, very easy to splice, fid goes right through.

Someone really needs to sit down and have a chat with their technical department. You can NOT spec out a line length that used to work, increase the actual line diameter and shove that in this ginormous "heat" guard without adding bulk. It is ridiculous that they miss the basics now. Owner get a bit grumpy when they see me hack off 15' of their expensive line just to almost not overfill the drum.
Click to expand...
Warns history with synthetic line I would call at best comical. They started with flat out saying it should not be used on their winches when it first became popular because the brake could melt the rope. So to solve the heat problem they offered the most complicated and expensive line when they spliced a "crystal polymer" line to Amsteel. I can remember the ridicule on pirate they got over that. The funny thing is the answer to the heat problem was to not winch out under load for extended periods of time.

Unfortunately now that they are owned by Keystone there are a lot of choices being made that IMO are more about profits than reputation. They still build a solid winch it is just the accessories that are being outsourced and just not as good as they used to be.
 
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