more or less. The Ranchos trade some downtravel to get a little more uptravel. Not a bad thing as long as the downtravel wasn't short to begin with.
Rough Country 4" lift
- Thread starter Turboloft
- Start date
more or less. The Ranchos trade some downtravel to get a little more uptravel. Not a bad thing as long as the downtravel wasn't short to begin with.
Quick question.
I would have to raise my front shocks and add bump stop to center their travel.
Is it worth giving up 1" of up travel to add 1" of down travel?
I have not read the whole thread so forgive me if this is redundant-
First of all if you’re on a budget- You need to determine everything the jeep really needs before you do anything that it doesn’t have to have -
I don’t know the mileage or the condition but I have yet to get one of these that did not need somewhere between $1000 and $3500 of fluids, service work cooling system work and basic rejuvenation.
I’ve had six.
Secondly is if you’re going to do a lift you need to understand the ramifications- If you do a 4 inch lift you’re going to possibly
be forced to do adjustable track bars, cv shaft, slip yoke eliminator, etc.
2” not so likely. Then a body lift- way less cost.
Remember you end up laying in the bed you made- That means you’ll be driving it later.
You are on the best forum you could be on if you own a TJ. We will be glad to help you in anyway we can. But up front we’re going to tell you the truth.
That's a tough one for me. Mine is slightly biased in front with 5 up and 6 down. I don't have a good scientific basis for it but I tend to lean toward keeping as much uptravel as the body will allow. So if all that uptravel you have is usable, I wouldn't trade it for more downtravel unless you feel like what you have isn't enough...like if you're at 7 up/4 down I might think about it, assuming your springs free length is long enough to use the downtravel.
Don't get wife #4, I would think you would have learned after 3 (maybe 2)...just rent them from now on and save the $$$ for the Jeep!
I agree with this. Set up travel to match body limits and push bias to downtravel within reason.
deadbeat son
TJ Addict
I appreciate that. It's got about 190,000 miles on it. A/C works great, it's got new oil pan seals the week I bought it, and newer differential oil (new gaskets and "fresh" oil. The rust is not bad on it whatsoever, the only bad spot being on the driver's front fender. I've put a new top on it and at this point in time I'm really looking at tires and a lift. From what was mentioned earlier, I want 4"of lift and I believe I will buy from Zone and Shocks I've not figured out what to do on those. I've heard that 3-inch suspension is the most you can get away with without having driveline and other issues. I've messed around with trucks (1964 Chevy C10 restoration) and engines so I'm not necessarily clueless, but some things I have no idea about.
50/50 bias. The problem is that it typically requires custom shock mounts to achieve this. Especially with larger travels.
That’s exactly what got me-I had no idea of the consequences- Everything I fixed revealed something else that needed attention it seemed. I’m not saying it’s a losing game but when you don’t know what you’re looking for it’s better to play it conservative.
Also you are doing what I should have done in the beginning and that is got on here and got good info. Good job.
I do have one issue im slightly worried about. When starting out from a stop, if the jeep gets down real low rpms it sounds like a rattle from the drivetrain. Ujoints and shafts seem fine, but it only does it then. No other time.
With that mileage pull the front shaft and see if it goes away. Front shaft failures take out the transfer case.
Only takes 10
Minutes to drop it , watch the caps- likely dry and the needles go everywhere- that said if it does that it needs rebuilt already- including the cardan joint.
It’s a pretty serious deal- It doesn’t happen every day but when it happens you’re going to know it.
I’m convinced that any of these at this age need to have the front driveshaft serviced/rebuilt if they never have been.
Don't take me as gospel whatever you do.
Ultimately I think being 50/50 makes the most sense, but for situations where you have to choose between biasing one way or another I can come up with a counterargument for every reason I think of in support of doing it either way.
A while back there was somebody, maybe 2 that came through here saying pro level rock crawlers would bias toward more down travel and indeed some of those series tons and coilovers or strut builds seem to have 3-4" of up, but it always descended into turd throwing before anything got discussed in detail. There is one specific scenario I can picture that working ok in, specifically on the front, but seems like a liability the rest of the time.
The PO was anal about maintenance and keeping all records.
Sorry to hijack this thread.
I have 5.5 up and only 4 down.
The shock and tire are both at their limit at full bump stop.
Ideally, I would like a longer shock.
However, a longer shock body means I would have to add bump stop.
I have 5.5 up and only 4 down.
The shock and tire are both at their limit at full bump stop.
Ideally, I would like a longer shock.
However, a longer shock body means I would have to add bump stop.
Correct. The alternative is to modify the shock mounts if you want the travel bias to be different.
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