Rubicon 241 transfer case housing split / cracked

John Middleton

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Dec 13, 2017
Messages
145
Location
Missouri, United States
The transfer case on my ‘03 Rubicon suffered a catastrophic failure! Front of tcase is split. (NVG2410R).
Rebuild or salvage or ??? Not sure where to go with this!

BB5497F0-75DB-4049-9457-1001671E5D42.jpeg


96ACA3EA-48CC-4A06-9888-208F85BEB292.jpeg
 
How did that happen!?

These transfer cases are very rare to find, and when they do come up people want an arm and a leg.

Would welding it up be a possibility? I’d also check http://car-part.com
 
How did that happen!?

These transfer cases are very rare to find, and when they do come up people want an arm and a leg.

Would welding it up be a possibility? I’d also check http://car-part.com
It happens quite frequently when folks ignore the chirping sound from the front double cardan. The centering ball freezes, locks up the joint at an angle and then it blows off the entire left side of the case when the front axle turns the shaft.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Drizit and Chris
It happens quite frequently when folks ignore the chirping sound from the front double cardan. The centering ball freezes, locks up the joint at an angle and then it blows off the entire left side of the case when the front axle turns the shaft.
Good to know!
 
The front half can't have that much of a crack in it without the back half being cracked as well unless by some miracle it is vastly different than the other 50 we've seen pop up like this.
My thoughts exactly but I couldn't find a replacement rear half of the case. That's why I said "hopefully" it's all he needs.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Middleton
T Case still in the Jeep but rear of case looks good! Didn’t find the source of the leak until I tried to refill the atf.
Thanks all for your help with this! Jeep was in a minor accident & I have repaired most of the issues (Rim, tire, lower control arm and axle bracket). Thought I was getting close to being back in the road till I found this!
 
There are several studs thatbgo into the transmission thrbhavebnuts on the end of them the can be undone easier with a gear wrench, take down 5e drive shafts a few electrical connection and the shift linksgevand your done maybe a bit over an hour if you take your time
 
There are several studs thatbgo into the transmission thrbhavebnuts on the end of them the can be undone easier with a gear wrench, take down 5e drive shafts a few electrical connection and the shift linksgevand your done maybe a bit over an hour if you take your time
Thanks! Wasn't looking forward to dropping that tranny & skid plate. I'll get back on it on Wednesday. Appreciate all the help!
 
Thanks! Wasn't looking forward to dropping that tranny & skid plate. I'll get back on it on Wednesday. Appreciate all the help!
You're still going to have to drop the skid. We have 4 drive on ramps. We pull it up on those before we do trans swaps or t-case pulls. Lets you lower the back of the drivetrain down so you can turn the top two nuts on the studs. Put a jack stand under the trans right in front of the skid plate so you can lower down some. Be careful of the fan shroud, go down too far and you'll break it. The nuts are 9/16". If you don't have a ratchet wrench in that size, get one. If you have the normal length, you may have to put another box end on the end of the ratchet wrench to break them loose.

That and I'll be amazed if the back half is sound enough to use, hopeful, but amazed.
 
  • Like
Reactions: John Middleton
You're still going to have to drop the skid. We have 4 drive on ramps. We pull it up on those before we do trans swaps or t-case pulls. Lets you lower the back of the drivetrain down so you can turn the top two nuts on the studs. Put a jack stand under the trans right in front of the skid plate so you can lower down some. Be careful of the fan shroud, go down too far and you'll break it. The nuts are 9/16". If you don't have a ratchet wrench in that size, get one. If you have the normal length, you may have to put another box end on the end of the ratchet wrench to break them loose.

That and I'll be amazed if the back half is sound enough to use, hopeful, but amazed.

Thanks, so I just need to free up the skid plate enough to let it drop down but not fully remove? Getting under it is no problem as I have a 2 post lift. Two oil changes & some work on an old M3 before my lift is free, however. I'll post as things develop.
 
Thanks, so I just need to free up the skid plate enough to let it drop down but not fully remove? Getting under it is no problem as I have a 2 post lift. Two oil changes & some work on an old M3 before my lift is free, however. I'll post as things develop.
Drop is slang for remove it out of your way so you can access the front of the t-case where it bolts to the back of the transmission. You may be able to lower it far enough to access them but you'll need forearms bigger than Hulk to pull it straight back with any part of the skid under it and get it on a transmission lift.
 
The nuts at abou 11 and 1 o’clock are a bit I of bear... lowering it 2-3 inches helps getting a wrench in therevfearvwrench are my favorite here
 
Is the TC case made of aluminum? If so you could try a product called Alumaloy to repair the case.
That'd be good to perhaps seal a leak but the tcase enclosure needs significant strength to hold together. Someone good with a TIG welder might be able to do a simple repair like a crack but his aluminum case pretty well blew up.