Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Rust prevention (from those in the rust belt)

ChadH

TJ Enthusiast
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Feb 8, 2024
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330
Location
Montana
As some know my LJ is very clean - not hardly any rust anywhere, just a couple bits on the axles. I have already treated it with 3M cavity wax and Amsoil HD metal protect. Of course its not fully covered in protection.

I found out this morning the DOT decided to do their evil thing of spraying mag chloride and rock salt. I wish I could just send them the repair bill. Anyway, from those that deal with salt and rust frequently, how effective is a nice long water bath after driving in that crap? I figured on spraying the whole thing down when I get home, undercarriage, under body, exterior body, engine bay, axles, the whole thing to try and rinse off as much as possible.

I intend to have the LJ be in 'storage' during the winter, but there will be a few days in the winter I need to drive it. Be it for shop repairs/parts or just a weekend day drive so it's not just sitting all winter, which poses its own set of problems.

It really would be irritating to have rust develop because of this crap the state uses. But I cant realistically just put it in storage the entire winter.

Note - I really dont want to use fluid film or wool wax because I'm not intending to daily drive this in the winter like the TJ.
 
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You will never beat the salt/brine mix. It will always be penetrating where you don’t want. My vehicles that are affected by this shit are brought to the car wash at least once a week for a good long bath. I won’t win the war against rust but i will fight it best i can. That said fluid film or some other oil base product is the best defense.
 
Fluidfilm or wax is your best bet. Other then that.

Only drive it when the pavement is dry if possible. Definitely spray it down with water and soap if you can. Avoid any of the washracks that recycle their water.
 
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In general, the water flush goes a long way for prevention, especially when compared to not doing it. I use spray Cosmoline every autumn, as well as pulling bolts and checking them-particularly the trans skid plate and body mount bolts. The torque boxes are the most vulnerable as there's no good way to give them a flush. Don't forget to flush your fuel tank skid plate as well.
 
I don’t know if there’s any truth to this or not but there is a product that is starting to be advertised that could be a godsend for those that are affected by rust- It’s not a preventative but it will convert and keep it from rusting again for 50 years

Of course that probably assumes it’s not exposed to harsh chemicals

I’m interested to see if it lives up to what they claim and right now I really don’t know much about it I have just seen some videos-
 
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I don’t know if there’s any truth to this or not but there is a product that is starting to be advertised that could be a godsend for those that are affected by rust- It’s not a preventative but it will convert and keep it from rusting again for 50 years

Of course that probably assumes it’s not exposed to harsh chemicals

I’m interested to see if it lives up to what they claim and right now I really don’t know much about it I have just seen some videos-

What is this product?
 
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Reactions: wigsajumper
If your gonna put her away for a bit set up a rotary lawn sprinkler under for a bit, does a decent job getting everywhere.
 
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The salt will linger on the pavement for a long time after the last use until it is washed off by the rain. Then the cars driving will get rinsed and drip more on the pavement. It takes a long time to run the cycle clean.

I have seen undercarriage washers that attach to a pressure washer, pretty cheap too. Clean it up and put her away.
 
I have seen undercarriage washers that attach to a pressure washer, pretty cheap too. Clean it up and put her away.

I have 2 (a four nozzle and a single nozzle) and I use them every time I return from Mexico where we drive on the beach. Works good. I also used Fluid Film on my Superduty which is pretty easy to apply, haven't put it on the Jeep yet though. A lot of salt/sand gets trapped between the fender liners and the fender so a short detail wand with a curve to it helps a lot there.
 
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In real terms, biggest thing is to keep your paint job pristine. Treat any chips or scrapes immediately with primer, paint, and top coat. Once it starts, it's like a cancer.

Second is to coat any problem areas in an oil, grease, or wax. Fluid film works great for this, as do a number of other products.

3rd is to make sure you do not mix stainless steel or chrome anything with steel or aluminum parts. The stainless will be fine, but will also drive aggressive galvanic corrosion around wherever it contacts. Steel mixed with aluminum isn't ideal, but nowhere near as bad.
 
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In real terms, biggest thing is to keep your paint job pristine. Treat any chips or scrapes immediately with primer, paint, and top coat. Once it starts, it's like a cancer.

Second is to coat any problem areas in an oil, grease, or wax. Fluid film works great for this, as do a number of other products.

3rd is to make sure you do not mix stainless steel or chrome anything with steel or aluminum parts. The stainless will be fine, but will also drive aggressive galvanic corrosion around wherever it contacts. Steel mixed with aluminum isn't ideal, but nowhere near as bad.

Tefgel nearly eliminates all of this dissimilar metal corrosion.
 
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Reactions: ChadH
I intend to have the LJ be in 'storage' during the winter, but there will be a few days in the winter I need to drive it. Be it for shop repairs/parts or just a weekend day drive so it's not just sitting all winter, which poses its own set of problems.

Not good reasons for driving it in the salt even once or twice. I don't think any kind of spray or coating or washing would make it worth it.
 
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Reactions: joe98tj
I’m in a similar boat. Moved from Idaho which doesn’t use too much salt to New Hampshire which uses a ton. I’ve just done my absolute best every spring and fall to repaint any areas that have the rock chip surface rust. This is the only winter I plan on having to drive my jeep in the salt but need it to last this winter as I just started a new career and don’t have the ability to not drive the jeep. I don’t have any real rust as of now so I am hoping with the well covered paint and washings when I do drive it will at least be minimal rust to where I can clean it up come spring time. I don’t want to do any oil under coatings since it will be harder to remove that stuff to sand and repaint come spring time. Will be curious to see others ideas.
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts