Rust removal (products) recommendations requested

Frankenjeep II

Frankenjeep II

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Charlotte, NC
I tried a search for this topic but did not come across any previous threads. I was a bit surprised by this (I am sure I am not the only one with rust issues!), so if I overlooked any previous threads, please pardon my error and direct me to the proper place. Thanks!

I have a few rust spots I am getting ready to fix, but I have been out of the game for too long and no longer know which products I can trust. The rust issues are on 3 out of 4 mounting locations for the roll bar (I guess the kids these days are calling it a sport bar...) on the tub. I am planning to cut out the cancer on two of the spots and weld in new metal. The third spot has exposed the fuel lines and I really don't feel like burning my TJ or my house down, so I am planning to use panel adhesive on this spot, after I cut out (carefully!) the bad metal.

So, here are my questions I am hoping to have answered...

1. What products and brands do you recommend for: A. Stopping the rust, B. Prepping the area for paint, C. Keeping the rust away in the future
2. What would you use to treat the new metal for A, B, and C above?
3. Any thoughts, comments, help, suggestions, tricks, hacks, or whatever are always appreciated!
4. What products work well for lining the tub (Rhino liner stuff), if any?
5. Have you used panel adhesive? Does it work? Any recommendations on which product/brand to get?

One thing to keep in mind is, I will be doing the work myself and although I do have a decent set of tools, I don't have an air compressor or paint guns. I do have a pancake air compressor for nail guns, but I doubt it will run a good constant flow for a paint sprayer.

Also, I am looking for quality of material over cost...but I don't want to spend thousands of dollars for the "best" product out there, either. Think of it this way...I don't want to go to Golden Corral for a steak, nor do I want to go to Ruth's Chris Steakhouse EVERY night (maybe once, if it is really really worth the money!).

Thanks, in advance, for your help and opinions!
 
I would say that the two most recommended products on here—and the ones I use—are POR15 and fluid film. The former takes a lot of prep work and should stop rust permanently. Fluid film you apply a few times per year and prevents rust from forming and existing rust from continuing to spread.
 
Here's what I am working with... 2020-03-02 22.55.22.jpg2020-03-02 22.55.29.jpg2020-03-02 22.56.09.jpg



bromel - Good to know POR 15 is still one of the 1st to be mentioned. I do remember that one.
Not sure I want to apply stuff (Fluid Film) multiple times a year. I have a hard enough time remembering to change my oil! :D:confused:
 
I’ve had a lot of success using the rust converter products from Gemplers or TheRustStore.com. It’s a water based product that once it cures you must cover with a topcoat of your choosing. It goes on a milky gray and hardens into a black gloss surface.

I’ve used fluid film before, but switched to cosmoline products that won’t require reapplications as often.
 
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Doctor Bone Smash said:
I’ve had a lot of success using the rust converter products from Gemplers or TheRustStore.com. It’s a water based product that once it cures you must cover with a topcoat of your choosing. It goes on a milky gray and hardens into a black gloss surface.

I’ve used fluid film before, but switched to cosmoline products that won’t require reapplications as often.
Click to expand...


Thanks Doc, I just pulled up The Rust Store and Gemplers... When you say it has to be covered with a topcoat, does it need to be done immediately after it cures, or could it wait a month or two? The reason I am wondering is I do not plan to paint the tub right away, but eventually will get to that. Would a shaker can of Rustoleum paint work?
 
Frankenjeep II said:
Thanks Doc, I just pulled up The Rust Store and Gemplers... When you say it has to be covered with a topcoat, does it need to be done immediately after it cures, or could it wait a month or two? The reason I am wondering is I do not plan to paint the tub right away, but eventually will get to that. Would a shaker can of Rustoleum paint work?
Click to expand...
I’ve used rattle can paint for the topcoat each time. You have to wait 48 hours for it to cure before it can be painted and you don’t want it to get wet before a topcoat protects it or it will remove some of the polymer. If there’s a risk of it getting rained on before it is painted, I’d maybe go with a different product. I’ve done rustoleum rust remover on my door handles followed by an enamel finish and that has held up well-ish in the extreme salt environment during our winters.
 
Go to Home Depot and get a jug of Kleen Strip prep & etch. It's the same stuff sold for much more as rust converter.

Wire wheel and/or sand the existing rust off. Apply the prep & etch with a paint brush. Let it dry. Clean surface and paint.

Cheap and effective.

I did this years ago on a badly rusted spare tire wheel on my 4Runner. It's the type that's suspended behind the rear bumper. Rusted bad enough to have pits in the metal. After wire wheel + prep & etch + Rust-Oleum paint it looked almost good as new, and still does.
 
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Cut out as much rust as you can. The best way to be sure it doesn't come back is to remove it entirely. Then sandblasting, wire wheels and sand paper as much as possible. After that is done the converters can be used. I've relied on Rustolium products for decades and have been satisfied with the results. Dont put bedliner other thick coatings that could hide any new rust from you. Attack rust as soon as possible. The 'I'll get to that next year' is the reason people need new frames and body panels.
 
I use OSPHO but for the love of God, do NOT put it in a spray bottle to apply it unless you're going to wear a respirator. It's phosphoric acid and aerosolizing it you will get it in your lungs and that is NOT good.

Put it in some old open top container and brush it on.

It works though.
 
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Great info! Thank you all very much! I had not heard of OSPHO, but will definitely look into it a bit more.

The videos were awesome! Seeing the results like that speaks volumes.

I am bummed about the bedliner comments, but totally understand why that is a bad idea. At least that will save some $$ in the long run! What do you all use for inside the cab? Anything?

Thanks again! And if anyone else has suggestions, I'd love to hear them!
 
Inside I use Rustolium products. But any quality brand will do. Again, it's all about the prep. And to be sure the paint keeps doing its job. If any wear spots remove the paint be sure to redo that area. Vigilance is the key to rust control.
Those folks out in Arizona and California have no idea how lucky they are.
 
+1 for Ospho
+1 for POR 15, this is a great product. If your final coat is going to be in the sun you need to put a top coat on to protect it from UV. POR 15 sells their TOP COAT in rattle cans. They work great.
 
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KBS is another product like POR15. Spray can and brush applications. POR15 has a Spray on/Brush on rust converter that works great. No need to etch metal, just clean and remove flakes as much as you can.

Fluid film as a preventive measure s a great idea.

Should go without saying that any of these products when atomized /sprayed should be applied while using a respirator or mask. No children around.
 
I use a variety of products like POR15 and naval jelly … plus media blasting … but one I've relied on for at least 25 yrs. is B&G Rustremover which is basically phosphoric acid. I've made a few dip tanks for it. Just dip it, leave it for what ever length of time, which depends - an hr. to all day, then rinse it with clear water. It leaves a nice etched ready for paint surface on ferrous metals.

Dip Tank 1.jpg
Dip Tank 2.jpg
Dip Tank 3.JPG
Dip Tank 4.jpg
 
Frankenjeep II said:
1. What products and brands do you recommend for: A. Stopping the rust, B. Prepping the area for paint, C. Keeping the rust away in the future
2. What would you use to treat the new metal for A, B, and C above?
3. Any thoughts, comments, help, suggestions, tricks, hacks, or whatever are always appreciated!
4. What products work well for lining the tub (Rhino liner stuff), if any?
5. Have you used panel adhesive? Does it work? Any recommendations on which product/brand to get?
a pancake air compressor for nail guns, but I doubt it will run a good constant flow for a paint sprayer.

I don't want to go to Golden Corral for a steak, nor do I want to go to Ruth's Chris Steakhouse
Click to expand...

Fact: Owning a good TJ you will never have money left for food.
Tip: Need a coin jar for dimes & quarters so you can buy beer on weekends.

Answers:
1. Wire brush-grind then Naval Jelly-wash then POR-15 then Fluid Film
2. see #1
3. Take you time, do it on weekends
4. Rustoleum products (no bedliner)
5. No
 
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