Sab-a-dab-a-doo! The back-country LJ build has officially started

[sab]

As I suspected, this new job really put the binders on my build progress. I can really only work on the weekends now, but I had another homestead project to finish this weekend. Our aquifer in this area is drying up, and we have no public water supply available within about 10 miles of the homeplace. For the last five years, I've been preparing for the inevitable day when there's no more water by building an industrial-level rainwater collection and treatment system (35,000 gallons of tank capacity). It's a costly solution, both in time and in money. The gutter guy finally found the time to come put the gutters on all the buildings, so I had to seal all the gaps to keep insects out of the system (when we go three months without rain, the insects find every single water source around). That took all day.

Back to the build. Yesterday, I made and painted this bracket:

"What's it for?" you ask. It's for a microswitch on the planetary shift lever. After curing the paint in an oven overnight, I assembled it today:

My LJ came as a Rubicon, but I will be pretty much replacing all the Rubicon components. However, I wanted to keep the dash lights functional and the "start in gear" functionality when in low gear. The OEM switch on the NVG241OR transfer case tells the PCM when the transfer case is in 4WD and 4WD Low. Advance Adapters makes an electronic interface module to replace the Rubicon's transfer case position switch. It uses two ball switches - on the front and rear shift rods - to indicate 4WD and Low. However, the planetary box on the 4 speed has no such switch accommodation. I want the PCM to know I'm in Low when the planetary shifter is in the low position. To do that, I'll wire the microswitch in parallel with the ball switch for low gear on the rear shift rod. It's an SPDT, but I'm using only one throw (the blue and black wires.)

And that's all the progress for this week. Darn job.

Stay tuned!

 

[sab]

Fellers, I've got good news and bad news regarding the build this weekend. First, the bad news. I doubt I'll accomplish much on the build this weekend due to "other duties as assigned."

And now for the good news. With the long holiday weekend next week, I'm hoping to get all the painting done to install the rock sliders and start putting the Atlas in for good, so look for some good progress reports in about a week...

But the really good news is more personal and is only slightly related to the LJ. I'm going hunting for the first time in nearly five years at a friend's farm this afternoon! In the first post of this thread, I alluded to "facing my mortality" as a reason I'm building this LJ. Well, what caused me to face my mortality was having to deal with a life-changing medical situation. I decided to concentrate on dealing with that situation, so my passion for big game hunting, which is very strong, was put on the back-burner. For now, that situation is under control, so I'm going to go do something that soothes my soul perhaps more so than building the LJ does. I'm very excited and for putting some meat in the deep freeze!

 

[Wildman]

Fellers, I've got good news and bad news regarding the build this weekend. First, the bad news. I doubt I'll accomplish much on the build this weekend due to "other duties as assigned."

And now for the good news. With the long holiday weekend next week, I'm hoping to get all the painting done to install the rock sliders and start putting the Atlas in for good, so look for some good progress reports in about a week...

But the really good news is more personal and is only slightly related to the LJ. I'm going hunting for the first time in nearly five years at a friend's farm this afternoon! In the first post of this thread, I alluded to "facing my mortality" as a reason I'm building this LJ. Well, what caused me to face my mortality was having to deal with a life-changing medical situation. I decided to concentrate on dealing with that situation, so my passion for big game hunting, which is very strong, was put on the back-burner. For now, that situation is under control, so I'm going to go do something that soothes my soul perhaps more so than building the LJ does. I'm very excited and for putting some meat in the deep freeze!

Good luck with the hunt... I used to enjoy it but haven't been in years.

I can relate to having other duties that need attention instead of the Jeep. You've got to do what's needed done.

 

[sab]

Well, I just got home with some meat for the deep freeze. What a hoot! The rut was on. I watched a spike buck chase a doe to a six point buck. The spike knew he was no match, so he turned tail and walked away - right past me, 20' away, and never noticed me sitting in the brush! Then, after the doe rejected him, the six point did the same thing, but he saw me and took a wide path around me, but never spooked. The spike was too close to me to make any motion, but with the 6 point keeping a bit more distance, I was able to record him on my phone.

...and a little over an hour later, the doe was quartered and in my cooler!

Man, that's good for my soul. Incredible afternoon!

 

[Rickyd]

Breaded fried medallions? I have a backstrap thawing right now for that tomorrow

 

[sab]

Breaded fried medallions? I have a backstrap thawing right now for that tomorrow

Just put a tenderloin in my belly - yum!

 

[sab]

Finally a bit of progress on the build! Thanksgiving took up most of the day, but since our meal was at 3pm, I did manage to use the new blast cabinet on some of the parts needed for the Savvy Mid-arm installation in the early evening:

Then, yesterday and today, I used a two-step masking process to prime (with both weld-through zinc on the edges and regular primer everywhere else) and paint the parts:

I needed to get primer/paint over 100% of the parts because this time of year here, it's fairly humid, and rust forms quickly. I also sanded the previously-powder-coated step slider armor and added a coat of primer and paint to freshen it up because they got scratched up during the aluminum backer project:

The big thing holding me back on finishing the Atlas installation and tummy tuck is paint. I need to color-match paint the inside of the tub after all the modifications needed in order to get clearance for the Atlas. However, the aluminum backers and screw heads for the sliders need color-matching, too. And since I'm going with a two-part 2K clear coat on the color-match paint, I need to get all of it ready for clear at the same time because those cans have a 2-day shelf life once you tap the mixing valve (and they're $25 a can!) Complicating matters is the fact that the aluminum sliders need to be sanded and then primed immediately to avoid peeling due to the oxide layer that forms very quickly on bare aluminum. Sheesh - it's complicated! That said, today I blasted about 150 screw heads for paint:

I've found that cardboard boxes with holes drilled in them work very well for painting screw heads. Turns out it works well for blasting, too (with a bit of damage, though!) Here are some of them painted (one box is OD green and the other is color-matched Light Khaki Metallic):

Tomorrow is going to be a busy day, if I accomplish everything I plan to accomplish. I have to sand the aluminum slider backers and prime them. Then, I have to paint them with color-match paint. I'll also shoot the inside of the tub with color-match paint. And finally, I'll 2K clear the screw heads, the backers, and the tub. I'll be surprised if I get it all done in a day.

Stay tuned!

To see the painting of the aluminum backers, see Post #411.

 

[Mike_H]

Finally a bit of progress on the build! Thanksgiving took up most of the day, but since our meal was at 3pm, I did manage to use the new blast cabinet on some of the parts needed for the Savvy Mid-arm installation in the early evening:
View attachment 576161

Then, yesterday and today, I used a two-step masking process to prime (with both weld-through zinc on the edges and regular primer everywhere else) and paint the parts:
View attachment 576163

I needed to get primer/paint over 100% of the parts because this time of year here, it's fairly humid, and rust forms quickly. I also sanded the previously-powder-coated step slider armor and added a coat of primer and paint to freshen it up because they got scratched up during the aluminum backer project:
View attachment 576171

The big thing holding me back on finishing the Atlas installation and tummy tuck is paint. I need to color-match paint the inside of the tub after all the modifications needed in order to get clearance for the Atlas. However, the aluminum backers and screw heads for the sliders need color-matching, too. And since I'm going with a two-part 2K clear coat on the color-match paint, I need to get all of it ready for clear at the same time because those cans have a 2-day shelf life once you tap the mixing valve (and they're $25 a can!) Complicating matters is the fact that the aluminum sliders need to be sanded and then primed immediately to avoid peeling due to the oxide layer that forms very quickly on bare aluminum. Sheesh - it's complicated! That said, today I blasted about 150 screw heads for paint:
View attachment 576174

I've found that cardboard boxes with holes drilled in them work very well for painting screw heads. Turns out it works well for blasting, too (with a bit of damage, though!) Here are some of them painted (one box is OD green and the other is color-matched Light Khaki Metallic):
View attachment 576177

Tomorrow is going to be a busy day, if I accomplish everything I plan to accomplish. I have to sand the aluminum slider backers and prime them. Then, I have to paint them with color-match paint. I'll also shoot the inside of the tub with color-match paint. And finally, I'll 2K clear the screw heads, the backers, and the tub. I'll be surprised if I get it all done in a day.

Stay tuned!

Are you using security head bolts?

 

[sab]

Are you using security head bolts?

Yes, but not by choice. Mr. Blaine and I discovered that the trailer decking screws he's been using have changed over time. There are two levels of strength, and the stronger ones don't seem to be available anymore. After talking with one of the eBay suppliers (River City), I believe the stronger are 410 stainless (martinsitic - heat-treatable) and the weaker are 18-8 (austenitic - not heat-treatable.) The 18-8 stainless alloy also happens to be the alloy that the #4 Phillips screws used in the Savvy kits are made of.

I found a company that sells the security bits in 18-8 at a reasonable price compared to the 18-8 trailer decking screws. However, I sent some of them to Mr. Blaine to look at, and these security head bolts don't have the same engagement length with the driver bits, so they are not ideal, either. The sockets are shallower, and there is a countersink at the top that reduces the engagement length even more. In my experience with them, they are likely not re-usable. I believe that removing them after a bit of corrosion occurs will result in deformed heads (but, hopefully, they'll still be removable.)

So, right now, our choices in stainless fasteners for body armor seem to be:

1. 18-8 #4 Phillips at about $.55 each.
2. 18-8 Security Torx at about $.55 each.
3. 18-8 Torx (trailer decking screws), at about $1.25 each.

Since they are all 18-8 screws, I just decided to use the security head screws I already have $200 invested in. Unfortunately, the best fasteners would be A286 flat-head Torx-drive screws, but they are prohibitively expensive, if you can even find them...

Edited: 18-8 is austenitic, but I originally typed "martensitic," so I corrected it (bold above)

 

[Mike_H]

Yes, but not by choice. Mr. Blaine and I discovered that the trailer decking screws he's been using have changed over time. There are two levels of strength, and the stronger ones don't seem to be available anymore. After talking with one of the eBay suppliers (River City), I believe the stronger are 410 stainless (martinsitic - heat-treatable) and the weaker are 18-8 (martinsitic - not heat-treatable.) The 18-8 stainless alloy also happens to be the alloy that the #4 Phillips screws used in the Savvy kits are made of.

I found a company that sells the security bits in 18-8 at a reasonable price compared to the 18-8 trailer decking screws. However, I sent some of them to Mr. Blaine to look at, and these security head bolts don't have the same engagement length with the driver bits, so they are not ideal, either. The sockets are shallower, and there is a countersink at the top that reduces the engagement length even more. In my experience with them, they are likely not re-usable. I believe that removing them after a bit of corrosion occurs will result in deformed heads (but, hopefully, they'll still be removable.)

So, right now, our choices in stainless fasteners for body armor seem to be:

1. 18-8 #4 Phillips at about $.55 each.
2. 18-8 Security Torx at about $.55 each.
3. 18-8 Torx (trailer decking screws), at about $1.25 each.

Since they are all 18-8 screws, I just decided to use the security head screws I already have $200 invested in. Unfortunately, the best fasteners would be A286 flat-head Torx-drive screws, but they are prohibitively expensive, if you can even find them...

Fastener science...A guy could make a career of it.

 

[sab]

Well, I got everything done! It took all day, and I'm worn out because I ain't no spring chicken no more! I used my trusty 28-year-old DeWalt random orbital sander with 40 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, and 320 grit discs for the aluminum backers:

And here they are with Light Metallic Khaki rattle can paint:

And here's the inside of the tub painted:

Yes, I have some visible lines there. It's already ugly, so I didn't bother sanding the primer line left from when I masked the area off. I was hoping that the top coat over that would cover it, but it didn't. Like I've said - I don't have the patience for bodywork...

Once the paint cures, I can now install the step sliders and the Atlas! Stay tuned.

To see the aluminum slider backers with the two-tone OD green on the underside, see Post #430.

 

[FarFire70]

Well, I got everything done! It took all day, and I'm worn out because I ain't no spring chicken no more! I used my trusty 28-year-old DeWalt random orbital sander with 40 grit, 120 grit, 220 grit, and 320 grit discs for the aluminum backers:
View attachment 576469

And here they are with Light Metallic Khaki rattle can paint:
View attachment 576471

And here's the inside of the tub painted:
View attachment 576474

Yes, I have some visible lines there. It's already ugly, so I didn't bother sanding the primer line left from when I masked the area off. I was hoping that the top coat over that would cover it, but it didn't. Like I've said - I don't have the patience for bodywork...

Once the paint cures, I can now install the step sliders and the Atlas! Stay tuned.

Once it dries, are you thinking to hit it with detailing pads to blend?

 

[sab]

Once it dries, are you thinking to hit it with detailing pads to blend?

No, for two reasons. One, it'll be covered in carpet. Two, there's no way to detail those lines away. They are there because I masked the area before spraying the primer. The primer built up next to the tape line. I removed the tape after spraying the primer and sprayed the color over the line. The color match is actually pretty good, and it's the physical primer thickness creating the line. If I were to sand it, I'd have to go back down to primer and repaint. It's not worth the time to me since it'll be covered. I just wanted to get it painted for rust protection.

 

[Mike_H]

Next time you have an area to blend, use a piece of paper with a "soft fold," like this video shows. I've done this method a few times and it works pretty well. It prevents that hard line that a tape edge leaves.

 

[sab]

Next time you have an area to blend, use a piece of paper with a "soft fold," like this video shows. I've done this method a few times and it works pretty well. It prevents that hard line that a tape edge leaves.

Great tip, Mike! Thanks.

 

[mrblaine]

Yes, but not by choice. Mr. Blaine and I discovered that the trailer decking screws he's been using have changed over time. There are two levels of strength, and the stronger ones don't seem to be available anymore. After talking with one of the eBay suppliers (River City), I believe the stronger are 410 stainless (martinsitic - heat-treatable) and the weaker are 18-8 (austenitic - not heat-treatable.) The 18-8 stainless alloy also happens to be the alloy that the #4 Phillips screws used in the Savvy kits are made of.

I found a company that sells the security bits in 18-8 at a reasonable price compared to the 18-8 trailer decking screws. However, I sent some of them to Mr. Blaine to look at, and these security head bolts don't have the same engagement length with the driver bits, so they are not ideal, either. The sockets are shallower, and there is a countersink at the top that reduces the engagement length even more. In my experience with them, they are likely not re-usable. I believe that removing them after a bit of corrosion occurs will result in deformed heads (but, hopefully, they'll still be removable.)

So, right now, our choices in stainless fasteners for body armor seem to be:

1. 18-8 #4 Phillips at about $.55 each.
2. 18-8 Security Torx at about $.55 each.
3. 18-8 Torx (trailer decking screws), at about $1.25 each.

Since they are all 18-8 screws, I just decided to use the security head screws I already have $200 invested in. Unfortunately, the best fasteners would be A286 flat-head Torx-drive screws, but they are prohibitively expensive, if you can even find them...

Edited: 18-8 is austenitic, but I originally typed "martensitic," so I corrected it (bold above)

I'm still pissy about that shit.

 

[Blake Stamper]

Yes, but not by choice. Mr. Blaine and I discovered that the trailer decking screws he's been using have changed over time. There are two levels of strength, and the stronger ones don't seem to be available anymore. After talking with one of the eBay suppliers (River City), I believe the stronger are 410 stainless (martinsitic - heat-treatable) and the weaker are 18-8 (austenitic - not heat-treatable.) The 18-8 stainless alloy also happens to be the alloy that the #4 Phillips screws used in the Savvy kits are made of.

I found a company that sells the security bits in 18-8 at a reasonable price compared to the 18-8 trailer decking screws. However, I sent some of them to Mr. Blaine to look at, and these security head bolts don't have the same engagement length with the driver bits, so they are not ideal, either. The sockets are shallower, and there is a countersink at the top that reduces the engagement length even more. In my experience with them, they are likely not re-usable. I believe that removing them after a bit of corrosion occurs will result in deformed heads (but, hopefully, they'll still be removable.)

So, right now, our choices in stainless fasteners for body armor seem to be:

1. 18-8 #4 Phillips at about $.55 each.
2. 18-8 Security Torx at about $.55 each.
3. 18-8 Torx (trailer decking screws), at about $1.25 each.

Since they are all 18-8 screws, I just decided to use the security head screws I already have $200 invested in. Unfortunately, the best fasteners would be A286 flat-head Torx-drive screws, but they are prohibitively expensive, if you can even find them...

Edited: 18-8 is austenitic, but I originally typed "martensitic," so I corrected it (bold above)

So just to verify, these are not worth the $145 buy in cost anymore?

https://www.fastenersinc.net/produc...-floorboard-screw-torx?variant=41844472742079

 

[mrblaine]

So just to verify, these are not worth the $145 buy in cost anymore?

https://www.fastenersinc.net/produc...-floorboard-screw-torx?variant=41844472742079

Not really. The early ones were heat treated and had no issue threading into the prescribed hole size in the flange on steel trailer deck cross beams. The last batches gall the threads.

 

[Blake Stamper]

Not really. The early ones were heat treated and had no issue threading into the prescribed hole size in the flange on steel trailer deck cross beams. The last batches gall the threads.

Have you found an acceptable substitute for them yet?

 

[sab]

I'm still pissy about that shit.

As am I.