Savvy body lift didn't come with instructions

2006TJ1

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my savvy body lift just came in, but has no instructions and I couldn't find any online. I understand the basic idea, but I just don't want to miss any minor details... haven't done a bl before... any tips?

it's going on top of my 2" lift, and I opted not to do the mml just bc I don't have any vibrations & my current motor mounts are fine.... so I know that means I need to drop the fan shroud 1.25" and drill new holes, is that all?
 
It shouldn't be anymore than installing the pucks and lowering the shroud. Just make sure you do one side at a time so the body is never fully disconnected from the frame.

When I did my last one, I took the bolts out of the front and rear mounts, then fully installed the pucks on one side, then the other side, then the front and rear.
 
The instructions are embedded in his tech article by Savvy Offroad:

http://www.savvyoffroad.com/tech/SavvyUnderArmorInstruction.pdf

my savvy body lift just came in, but has no instructions and I couldn't find any online. I understand the basic idea, but I just don't want to miss any minor details... haven't done a bl before... any tips?

it's going on top of my 2" lift, and I opted not to do the mml just bc I don't have any vibrations & my current motor mounts are fine.... so I know that means I need to drop the fan shroud 1.25" and drill new holes, is that all?
Most people don't put on a MML to sort out vibes (Although it sure does help), they get it to raise the oil pan up another inch & pursue an ultra high clearance skid plate. Certainly not something everyone needs :).
 
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I ended up having to put a Novak cable shifter on my jeep after the 1.25" body lift, I did the MML as well, JKS makes a 1" spacer, you can use with your existing motor mounts
 
This video by Rokmen is very helpful in installing the Body Lift. Don't just start taking things apart and hoping it will all work out. There's a definite sequence to follow.
Tip: If you can't get the hidden rear bolt to line up after sliding the aluminum puck in, go ahead and shift to the other side and slip it in then. I have seen the first side get unaligned making it impossible to get that bolt in. But it will line back up when you raise the other side.
Tip: To get the front rubber grille supports onto the bolt, use Vaseline (not pressure in a vice)
Tip: To tighten the front grille supports, you will need to remove your headlights. From there it is easy.
 
This video by Rokmen is very helpful in installing the Body Lift. Don't just start taking things apart and hoping it will all work out. There's a definite sequence to follow.
Tip: If you can't get the hidden rear bolt to line up after sliding the aluminum puck in, go ahead and shift to the other side and slip it in then. I have seen the first side get unaligned making it impossible to get that bolt in. But it will line back up when you raise the other side.
Tip: To get the front rubber grille supports onto the bolt, use Vaseline (not pressure in a vice)
Tip: To tighten the front grille supports, you will need to remove your headlights. From there it is easy.
Yeah I definitely don't think I did the front grille supports right. Have any pictures? I didn't have a bolt, I just pulled my old rubber grille supports off, and glued them to the Savvy puck. LOL. They were similar to the hood windshield supports in removal & re-installation design.
 
Yeah I definitely don't think I did the front grille supports right. Have any pictures? I didn't have a bolt, I just pulled my old rubber grille supports off, and glued them to the Savvy puck. LOL. They were similar to the hood windshield supports in removal & re-installation design.
I'll see if I took some when I get home. If not, I'll see if I can explain better what to do and get some picks of it installed.
 
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If I recall, there are four parts. 1) the original rubber snubber, 2) a bolt with a notched area, 3) a normal bolt, 4) the aluminum Savvy spacer.

Screw the bolt with the notched area into one side of the aluminum spacer. Then use Vaseline on the snuber and press onto the bolt with the notched area. It should slip on very easily. Place the two in the original position of the snubber with the aluminum spacer at the top. With the headlight out, put the other bolt in through the grill and into the aluminum spacer. Tighten down. The only pics I have are of the headlight removed with the bolt head underneath and the finished product. They're all attached.
IMG_7767.JPG

61C6D72A-FE9B-49B1-9FBB-1DF18A7A74AA.jpeg


IMG_7768.JPG
 
thanks everyone, will do it this weekend or next (most likely)..... if I'm raising the body 1.25" do I need to drop the shroud 1" or 1.25"? I feel like that's a stupid question but
 
thanks everyone, will do it this weekend or next (most likely)..... if I'm raising the body 1.25" do I need to drop the shroud 1" or 1.25"? I feel like that's a stupid question but

Probably 1.25", but honestly, that extra .25" shouldn't make a difference either or.
 
thanks everyone, will do it this weekend or next (most likely)..... if I'm raising the body 1.25" do I need to drop the shroud 1" or 1.25"? I feel like that's a stupid question but
It’s negligible. Better to ask than to be sorry. The important thing is to have the fan centered in the shroud so it doesn’t hit the shroud. Most do this by cutting slots in the shroud and sliding it down
 
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It’s negligible. Better to ask than to be sorry. The important thing is to have the fan centered in the shroud so it doesn’t hit the shroud. Most do this by cutting slots in the shroud and sliding it down
I figured, I just dont want to be all done and start it up to back out of the garage and have the fan chopping into the shroud lol
 
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do I need to apply anti seize or threadlock to the body mount bolts? just want to make sure I'm prepared. I've seen opinions for both and just don't know which direction to go. I know they have opposite functions but have seen where some claim antiseize will stop corrosion and they shouldn't come loose, threadlock will stop corrosion and they DEFINITELY won't come loose, and some say just use the dry bolts and check them every now and then to make sure they are still screwed in all the way
 
I used anti seize on mine about 5 years ago and haven't touched them since.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
do I need to apply anti seize or threadlock to the body mount bolts? just want to make sure I'm prepared. I've seen opinions for both and just don't know which direction to go. I know they have opposite functions but have seen where some claim antiseize will stop corrosion and they shouldn't come loose, threadlock will stop corrosion and they DEFINITELY won't come loose, and some say just use the dry bolts and check them every now and then to make sure they are still screwed in all the way
You can do it either way. If you live in an area where you get lots of corrosion, I would. Just make sure if you do you torque to only 80% of the spec value
 
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You can do it either way. If you live in an area where you get lots of corrosion, I would. Just make sure if you do you torque to only 80% of the spec value
would use which, the Threadlock? I live in GA so corrosion is very much not an issue