Savvy Engine Skid Parts

cpwolf

cpwolf

Texan
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 15, 2020
Messages
2,033
Location
TEXAS - Cedar Park
So I had the Engine Skid in the garage for a while, finally opened it and want to check here.

Pics show all I have.

Two questions:
1. The four counter sunk bolts and nuts, do they not come with this skid? I don’t have them in the box or bag.

2. How do the brackets bolt to the bottom of the motor Mount bracket? There are no bolts, was there suposed to be?

Thanks.

57938D23-7B4D-470B-8006-56A7E1F2FCFB.jpeg


AA8DC865-6966-4545-9B01-7B6DD020A1A8.jpeg
 
There should be more hardware. It’s been a few years since I bought mine but it came with everything needed. @mrblaine might be able to help you identify exactly what is missing.
 
cpwolf said:
So I had the Engine Skid in the garage for a while, finally opened it and want to check here.

Pics show all I have.

Two questions:
1. The four counter sunk bolts and nuts, do they not come with this skid? I don’t have them in the box or bag.

2. How do the brackets bolt to the bottom of the motor Mount bracket? There are no bolts, was there suposed to be?

Thanks.

View attachment 544691

View attachment 544692
Click to expand...

2 bolts with flange nuts for each side of the motor mount brackets.
4 flat head screws with flange nuts to attach the end to the belly skid.
4 bolts with washers and flange nuts to bolt each end of the brace in place to the motor mount brackets and front of skid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
mrblaine said:
2 bolts with flange nuts for each side of the motor mount brackets.
4 flat head screws with flange nuts to attach the end to the belly skid.
4 bolts with washers and flange nuts to bolt each end of the brace in place to the motor mount brackets and front of skid.
Click to expand...

Got it. Should have opened when I got it.

I’ll email Gerald, he’s been very responsive in the past, and go from there.

I have the 4 bolts with washers and flange nuts for the brace ends.

I’ll ask about the 2 and the 4 flat heads.
 
  • Like
Reactions: MountaineerTom
When I did mine it took a few tries to get it correct, if I remember the bars where not marked left or the right or up or down
 
Get under the Jeep and it will all start to make sense.

IMG_3184.jpeg


IMG_3185.jpeg


IMG_3186.jpeg


IMG_3189.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
Hardware missing, yes.

As for the orientation of the brackets and arms... do whatever fits. I've got one arm one way, another the other, one in a high hole, one in a low hole, and I still had to grind an arm a bit for it to clear the bracket. But it got my skid centered and as high as possible, solidly.
 
I have read @mrblaine comments on it on previous posts, so not worried about getting it in, just wasn’t sure if the bolts should be in there or not, they are all good I’ve got a message to Savvy, or I’ll get them myself.

Only thing that I didn’t see in his comments was the edge distance. Curious if there’s an edge distance you look to have?



Compilation of comments I have so the install I don’t think will be an issue:

Edge distance done first and then the front supports are done. More importantly you need the front working with the exhaust and that should give you enough or way more than enough edge distance at the skid. The front supports don't set where the skid goes, edge distance, side to side at the trans pan and clearance around the exhaust at the front do.

We don't grind. Yes, there is some slight interference on some of them, not all. When there is, we just snug the upper bolt down and push the lower end over until a hole lines up which tweaks the tab on the upper mount slightly. Not a big deal and we don't have to do it on all of them. Stupid Jeeps are not consistent so there is no way to always wind up with the same installation results.

We also always run the flange that points forward to the inboard side. That way they match which makes my OCD happy and gives us the most clearance for the upper on a mid arm install.

Bottom of both frame side motor mount brackets have two holes that match the holes in the brackets. They are offset and not straight across from each other so one bracket mounts one way and the other side is reversed so that both roughly line up with the front of the skid.
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
cpwolf said:
I have read @mrblaine comments on it on previous posts, so not worried about getting it in, just wasn’t sure if the bolts should be in there or not, they are all good I’ve got a message to Savvy, or I’ll get them myself.

Only thing that I didn’t see in his comments was the edge distance. Curious if there’s an edge distance you look to have?
Click to expand...
It is an average sorta. We clamp the skid in place at the belly side front edge with a vise grip style clamp on each side roughly centered. Jack up the engine skid to roughly the height you think will work and then try to install the braces. If you can loosely bolt them in and get everything kinda in place, then you can start evaluating what needs to move around.

The skid sides need to be pretty centered on the trans pan. Sometimes we have to shove the skid forward to get more clearance, sometimes we don't. As you adjust and reclamp, the braces may get out of whack and need adjusting. It is common for us to shorten one brace and redrill after some minor grinding to make it match the other end. That is typically the end at the skid since that is the easiest to stick something through the hole to mark the location on the brace.

It is also common to get every bolted up at the braces, undo the clamps at the skid and have it swing over to the side some. Pay attention to what is above the holes in the back of the skid when you drill and with an eye on being able to get the nuts on the fasteners.

In short, no, I don't look for a specific edge distance, I just make it all work and play as nice as we can.
 
mrblaine said:
It is an average sorta. We clamp the skid in place at the belly side front edge with a vise grip style clamp on each side roughly centered. Jack up the engine skid to roughly the height you think will work and then try to install the braces. If you can loosely bolt them in and get everything kinda in place, then you can start evaluating what needs to move around.

The skid sides need to be pretty centered on the trans pan. Sometimes we have to shove the skid forward to get more clearance, sometimes we don't. As you adjust and reclamp, the braces may get out of whack and need adjusting. It is common for us to shorten one brace and redrill after some minor grinding to make it match the other end. That is typically the end at the skid since that is the easiest to stick something through the hole to mark the location on the brace.

It is also common to get every bolted up at the braces, undo the clamps at the skid and have it swing over to the side some. Pay attention to what is above the holes in the back of the skid when you drill and with an eye on being able to get the nuts on the fasteners.

In short, no, I don't look for a specific edge distance, I just make it all work and play as nice as we can.
Click to expand...

That is what I anticipated. All good.

And when drilling, I’ll have a wood block or something above to keep from hitting anything critical.
 
bluescapegoat said:
Hardware missing, yes.

As for the orientation of the brackets and arms... do whatever fits. I've got one arm one way, another the other, one in a high hole, one in a low hole, and I still had to grind an arm a bit for it to clear the bracket. But it got my skid centered and as high as possible, solidly.
Click to expand...

We don't grind, we bolt the brace to the motor mount bracket and tweak it over to line up.
 
mrblaine said:
We don't grind, we bolt the brace to the motor mount bracket and tweak it over to line up.
Click to expand...

You talking about a front-to-rear tweaking or something else? If I recall it was just a bit on the end of the arm to clear the bracket but I'm not sure now, it wasn't any grinding to any of the flat surfaces. This was for my mid arm installation, I might have been trying to keep the arm in a certain orientation for clearance there.

There's still a fair bit of tension on all of it when the hardware's tightened up.
 
My Savvy skid arrived last week. Looking @ JMT's post it looks like the drivers side frame bracket is different than the passengers side (longer?) Is that to accommodate the mid - arm suspension? If so I need to contact Gerald.
 
Tim Horne said:
My Savvy skid arrived last week. Looking @ JMT's post it looks like the drivers side frame bracket is different than the passengers side (longer?) Is that to accommodate the mid - arm suspension? If so I need to contact Gerald.
Click to expand...

It is but it makes no difference to the engine skid if you never run the mid arm.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Tim Horne
Top Bottom