Savvy off-road sold? (the unofficial Savvy customer support and Savvy rant thread)

If it is like 99% of them, only when it is cold and as soon as it warms up, it stops due to expansion. Takes a couple of years for them to fail. You can take some vise grip type pliers and crimp the tabs a little bit tighter and buy lots of time.

Excellent info. I've never even seen actual liquid, I just see a pattern where moisture has been and changed the pattern of the way dust has collected. Makes me feel better about the urgency and maybe my new Mopar can sit on the shelf for another year or more.

I don't see issues with non welded, I see lots of issues with welded.

I don't doubt that. My opinion is that it has less to do with the joining method and more to do with the tank design and/or the skill of the fabricator.

The answer is the rigidity of the casting helps the final product. If it was stamped and formed or fabricated, I suspect your defect rate would shoot through the roof.

Absolutely. These are condenser coils on a large air conditioning chiller (150-500 ton) and to achieve the UL listing, samples have had to withstand a test involving 1500-2000 psi. The plate that the tubes penetrate and the tank welds to is around 3/4" or thicker, machined from plate. The "tank" is cast with passages inside connecting one tube to another in the next row, not an open tank like in a radiator. I don't know what the thickness is at the thinnest point (the drawings were concealed from all but a few directly involved in the design) but it's more than anything that would be stamped or formed. If I remember correctly the tank by itself was 50 pounds or more.
 
If it is like 99% of them, only when it is cold and as soon as it warms up, it stops due to expansion. Takes a couple of years for them to fail. You can take some vise grip type pliers and crimp the tabs a little bit tighter and buy lots of time.

Have you tried this with any success on the crimp joint on heater cores?

If Mopar was still available I wouldn't even entertain the thought of doing all that work just to squeeze it and put it back in but I have so little confidence in the aftermarket I might consider it.
 
Have you tried this with any success on the crimp joint on heater cores?

If Mopar was still available I wouldn't even entertain the thought of doing all that work just to squeeze it and put it back in but I have so little confidence in the aftermarket I might consider it.

No experience. I don't know any of the failure points.
 
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Tummy tuck arrived. Any way to check for manual/auto as mine will be collecting dust for 6+ months. Thanks
 
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Tummy tuck arrived. Any way to check for manual/auto as mine will be collecting dust for 6+ months. Thanks

Yeah, pull the transmission mount bracket and compare it with photos on here. I don’t have pics, but they are around here somewhere.
 
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My “new gen” mid-arm kit arrived. I’m not familiar enough with the older versions to distinguish what has changed. It looks great and I can’t wait to get it installed.

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Here are images from late summer 2016. This was the very first production run of the midarm. I was under the impression that starting about a year ago, both the TJ and LJ kits get the LJ front upper/lower frame side bracket.

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My “new gen” mid-arm kit arrived. I’m not familiar enough with the older versions to distinguish what has changed. It looks great and I can’t wait to get it installed.

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My dad received his last week. looks identical to yours.

I haven't looked over every detail, but comparing it to mine that has been install for a couples years I didn't notice any differences besides the links.
 
My “new gen” mid-arm kit arrived. I’m not familiar enough with the older versions to distinguish what has changed. It looks great and I can’t wait to get it installed.

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Only difference my untrained eye sees is that the arms are labeled.

FWIW, my midarm that was delivered a couple months ago came with an improperly cut front truss. The angle on the stiffener is wrong.

Not a huge deal as I’ll be going to a 44 front in the near future anyways, but a bit disappointing.
 
Only difference my untrained eye sees is that the arms are labeled.

FWIW, my midarm that was delivered a couple months ago came with an improperly cut front truss. The angle on the stiffener is wrong.

Not a huge deal as I’ll be going to a 44 front in the near future anyways, but a bit disappointing.

I applied the labels myself when measuring each link to ensure I got the correct assortment for my LJ. The lengths are all close enough I could see someone such as myself grabbing the wrong link during installation and not noticing until significant headache had accumulated downstream.
 
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I applied the labels myself when measuring each link to ensure I got the correct assortment for my LJ. The lengths are all close enough I could see someone such as myself grabbing the wrong link during installation and not noticing until significant headache had accumulated downstream.

Oh wow, those are very nice labels for being temporary. Knowing myself, I would’ve just used tape 😂
 
Only difference my untrained eye sees is that the arms are labeled.

...

The arms have wrench flats which is completely unnecessary and potentially bad for those lacking a mechanical sensibility.
 
The arms have wrench flats which is completely unnecessary and potentially bad for those lacking a mechanical sensibility.

For someone prospectively running a self-centering bushing.

Customer redundancy.