Savvy transfer case shifter success

[Zorba]

... I think!

It sure is fiddly to get adjusted, but I think I did it - with one possible caveat/question...

After several hours of farkling about with the adjustments, it now shifts from 2 hi all the way down to 4 lo without issue. Both ends (2 hi/4 lo) seem to be nicely engaged in the center of their detents as felt at the actual TC shift lever - and there's a tiny bit of available movement beyond the stop. I've also checked the clevis pin at both ends - I can push it out with little resistance, so I consider that good. The 4WD dash lite also goes on/off as expected, so I'm pretty happy with this...

HOWEVER -

With the stock setup, when shifting from 2 hi to 4 hi, the in-cab shift lever would contact the Z-gate with a pretty solid feeling - with a THUNK! The cable shifter does not, its probably a 1/4" off of the Z-gate. I can pull the lever back til it contacts the Z-gate, and it will actually stay there (Jeep not running/moving) in some sort of apparent false position. Move the shift lever to go around the Z-gate and pull back, and neutral is about where I'd expect it. Pull all the way back for 4 lo.

I have tried to "tune out" the gap-osis between 4 hi and contact with the Z-gate - but all I've managed to do is make it worse and/or tune out one end of the range or other so that it has no 2hi or on the other end, no 4 lo. So where I have it seems to be the best compromise.

So if anyone can understand the above babble, is this normal/do I care? Is it just a difference between stock and the cable shifter, or what?

@mrblaine or whomever can give me a clue...

P.S. You guys who put these things on without dropping the skid have my admiration and respect! No way I could have done it that way - and the front driveshaft is out too as I'm rebuilding it - glad it isn't there!

 

[mrblaine]

... I think!

It sure is fiddly to get adjusted, but I think I did it - with one possible caveat/question...

View attachment 575149

After several hours of farkling about with the adjustments, it now shifts from 2 hi all the way down to 4 lo without issue. Both ends (2 hi/4 lo) seem to be nicely engaged in the center of their detents as felt at the actual TC shift lever - and there's a tiny bit of available movement beyond the stop. I've also checked the clevis pin at both ends - I can push it out with little resistance, so I consider that good. The 4WD dash lite also goes on/off as expected, so I'm pretty happy with this...

HOWEVER -

With the stock setup, when shifting from 2 hi to 4 hi, the in-cab shift lever would contact the Z-gate with a pretty solid feeling - with a THUNK! The cable shifter does not, its probably a 1/4" off of the Z-gate. I can pull the lever back til it contacts the Z-gate, and it will actually stay there (Jeep not running/moving) in some sort of apparent false position. Move the shift lever to go around the Z-gate and pull back, and neutral is about where I'd expect it. Pull all the way back for 4 lo.

I have tried to "tune out" the gap-osis between 4 hi and contact with the Z-gate - but all I've managed to do is make it worse and/or tune out one end of the range or other so that it has no 2hi or on the other end, no 4 lo. So where I have it seems to be the best compromise.

So if anyone can understand the above babble, is this normal/do I care? Is it just a difference between stock and the cable shifter, or what?

@mrblaine or whomever can give me a clue...

P.S. You guys who put these things on without dropping the skid have my admiration and respect! No way I could have done it that way - and the front driveshaft is out too as I'm rebuilding it - glad it isn't there!

The OEM thunk is from all the bushings being compressed and then unloading to snap the shift lever against the gate stop. That goes away with solid bushings so stop overthinking it. Just adjust the end modes to have a bit of slack at rest and that's golden.

 

[Camdenst]

I just adjusted mine recently... yes it is very anticlimactic shifting and I had to check the dash to confirm.

 

[Zorba]

The OEM thunk is from all the bushings being compressed and then unloading to snap the shift lever against the gate stop. That goes away with solid bushings so stop overthinking it. Just adjust the end modes to have a bit of slack at rest and that's golden.

Thank you Sir. I figured I was probably overthinking it - I have a tendency to do that - so glad to have some confirmation.

This thing is NIIIIICCE!!

 

[Mfpaul73]

... I think!

It sure is fiddly to get adjusted, but I think I did it - with one possible caveat/question...

View attachment 575149

After several hours of farkling about with the adjustments, it now shifts from 2 hi all the way down to 4 lo without issue. Both ends (2 hi/4 lo) seem to be nicely engaged in the center of their detents as felt at the actual TC shift lever - and there's a tiny bit of available movement beyond the stop. I've also checked the clevis pin at both ends - I can push it out with little resistance, so I consider that good. The 4WD dash lite also goes on/off as expected, so I'm pretty happy with this...

HOWEVER -

With the stock setup, when shifting from 2 hi to 4 hi, the in-cab shift lever would contact the Z-gate with a pretty solid feeling - with a THUNK! The cable shifter does not, its probably a 1/4" off of the Z-gate. I can pull the lever back til it contacts the Z-gate, and it will actually stay there (Jeep not running/moving) in some sort of apparent false position. Move the shift lever to go around the Z-gate and pull back, and neutral is about where I'd expect it. Pull all the way back for 4 lo.

I have tried to "tune out" the gap-osis between 4 hi and contact with the Z-gate - but all I've managed to do is make it worse and/or tune out one end of the range or other so that it has no 2hi or on the other end, no 4 lo. So where I have it seems to be the best compromise.

So if anyone can understand the above babble, is this normal/do I care? Is it just a difference between stock and the cable shifter, or what?

@mrblaine or whomever can give me a clue...

P.S. You guys who put these things on without dropping the skid have my admiration and respect! No way I could have done it that way - and the front driveshaft is out too as I'm rebuilding it - glad it isn't there!

This post is inspiring. I have been wanted to do this upgrade but have been putting it off due to dreading the whole adjustment part of the task. It really needs to be done, so I dont feel like I am breaking my TC when I shift.

 

[mrblaine]

This post is inspiring. I have been wanted to do this upgrade but have been putting it off due to dreading the whole adjustment part of the task. It really needs to be done, so I dont feel like I am breaking my TC when I shift.

It isn't as hard as folks make it out to be. The cable sets the length between the two shifters, shift lever on t-case and shifter handle in the rig. The cable housing adjusts the throw or how much the shifter moves the shift lever.

Once the cable length is adjusted, that doesn't change again. If you change it, you are fighting the detents and that is putting pressure on them when it shouldn't be.

Pay attention to the pressure part. When it is in 2 high, there should be a little bit of movement forward at the shifter handle so it isn't bottomed out against the gate. When it is in 4 low, same thing, should be able to move it rear a small amount so it isn't resting against the gate.

If the 2 hi is resting against the gate, loosen the jam nuts on the cable housing and move it away from that end. Works the same on the other end. If you adjust with a plan and know what each end needs, it is not hard to make it work. Biggest mistake I see folks make is trying to make it all work perfectly sitting still without moving the rig. You can get it close, but you'll need to drive it and shift it while rolling slightly to get it perfect.

 

[Zorba]

It isn't as hard as folks make it out to be. The cable sets the length between the two shifters, shift lever on t-case and shifter handle in the rig. The cable housing adjusts the throw or how much the shifter moves the shift lever.

Once the cable length is adjusted, that doesn't change again. If you change it, you are fighting the detents and that is putting pressure on them when it shouldn't be.

Pay attention to the pressure part. When it is in 2 high, there should be a little bit of movement forward at the shifter handle so it isn't bottomed out against the gate. When it is in 4 low, same thing, should be able to move it rear a small amount so it isn't resting against the gate.

If the 2 hi is resting against the gate, loosen the jam nuts on the cable housing and move it away from that end. Works the same on the other end. If you adjust with a plan and know what each end needs, it is not hard to make it work. Biggest mistake I see folks make is trying to make it all work perfectly sitting still without moving the rig. You can get it close, but you'll need to drive it and shift it while rolling slightly to get it perfect.

Ok - I was indeed doing it still, but was planning on a re-check once I get the thing back together and rolling. Question: Which set of jam nuts applies to which end. I *think* the lower (TC side) is 4 Lo, and the upper tub side is 2 Hi, but I was never quite sure. Got myself all turned around!

 

[mrblaine]

Question: Which set of jam nuts applies to which end.

The end of the cable housing where they are is the ones they go to. The ones on the t-case bracket work to pull that one back and forth and the other ones do that end. If the shifter handle is too far off the end gate or resting against it, move the cable housing on that end to adjust.

 

[Zorba]

The end of the cable housing where they are is the ones they go to. The ones on the t-case bracket work to pull that one back and forth and the other ones do that end. If the shifter handle is too far off the end gate or resting against it, move the cable housing on that end to adjust.

AH! Now I have the picture in my mind that was missing before. Thank you!