Savvy Under Armor / Skid Plate Install Write-Up

posting here even though original poster "has not been seen" since february, but hopefully someone can help. 2005 lj rubicon.

driver.jpg


this is the driver side and i can get the inner c under the hard fuel lines, but i don't see how the crossmember is going in there. anyone have pics or description of what should go on in this area?

thanks!
 
cmitcham said:
posting here even though original poster "has not been seen" since february, but hopefully someone can help. 2005 lj rubicon.

View attachment 187699

this is the driver side and i can get the inner c under the hard fuel lines, but i don't see how the crossmember is going in there. anyone have pics or description of what should go on in this area?

thanks!
Click to expand...

The crossmember lives below the fuel, evap, brake lines. It sits on the lower tabs even with the bottom of the frame.
 
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cmitcham said:
posting here even though original poster "has not been seen" since february, but hopefully someone can help. 2005 lj rubicon.

View attachment 187699

this is the driver side and i can get the inner c under the hard fuel lines, but i don't see how the crossmember is going in there. anyone have pics or description of what should go on in this area?

thanks!
Click to expand...

I lifted my crossmember up diagonally and had to slowly work it in on each side - while my transmission was lifted just a little above where it would rest when attached. Then you can use a drift to get the holes to align and bolt up. There's a half inch or so gap the lines fit through.
 
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rasband said:
I lifted my crossmember up diagonally and had to slowly work it in on each side - while my transmission was lifted just a little above where it would rest when attached. Then you can use a drift to get the holes to align and bolt up. There's a half inch or so gap the lines fit through.
Click to expand...

It most certainly fits, and it will be tight.
 
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cmitcham said:
posting here even though original poster "has not been seen" since february, but hopefully someone can help. 2005 lj rubicon.

View attachment 187699

this is the driver side and i can get the inner c under the hard fuel lines, but i don't see how the crossmember is going in there. anyone have pics or description of what should go on in this area?

thanks!
Click to expand...
@JMT Didn't you fight the same thing?
 
I had to pop the lines out of their looms on both sides temporarily to gain some slack but it all came together. Everything about it has narrow tolerances but thats what we we like, once it's in. 😬
20200902_184206.jpg
 
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rasband said:
I lifted my crossmember up diagonally and had to slowly work it in on each side - while my transmission was lifted just a little above where it would rest when attached. Then you can use a drift to get the holes to align and bolt up. There's a half inch or so gap the lines fit through.
Click to expand...
The drift is the key
 
thanks guys, as usual, y'all are spot on. i wish the fuel line didn't have that vertical offset, puts it right on the c brackets. i'll protect with a piece of rubber fuel line.

next question. i'm thinking that after noting where clearance is needed, i should remove the crossmember for clearancing. correct, or should i be able to make my clearances with the crossmember right where it is?

yay.jpg


next question. i'm thinking that after noting where clearance is needed, i should remove the crossmember for clearancing. correct, or should i be able to make my clearance with the crossmember right where it is?
 
cmitcham said:
should i be able to make my clearance with the crossmember right where it is?
Click to expand...

Are you talking about denting the tub? I had to do mine pulling the cross member so we could get something wedged there to target the dents where we needed them. My 3rd cat also hit the crossmember so I had to grind out the divet that was already there another 1/4”.
 
cmitcham said:
posting here even though original poster "has not been seen" since february, but hopefully someone can help. 2005 lj rubicon.

View attachment 187699

this is the driver side and i can get the inner c under the hard fuel lines, but i don't see how the crossmember is going in there. anyone have pics or description of what should go on in this area?

thanks!
Click to expand...
It will fit fine. Don't worry. If you got the inner and outer C together, you've done the hard part.
 
Mike_H said:
@JMT Didn't you fight the same thing?
Click to expand...
It was the inner and outer C's that I fought, and won, with a drift I made. The rest was cake, just long hours of making adjustments to get everything dialed in. Worth every headache.

On the topic, I looked under the rig a few days ago and my crossmember had lost two of the philips bolts and nuts and a third was on the way out. I tightened it up, contacted Michael at Savvy and within an hour he had already sent out a couple of replacements. Even though a lot of people think their customer service sucks, I can't say enough good about my experience with them, and I've had several.
 
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JMT said:
my crossmember had lost two of the philips bolts and nuts
Click to expand...

I should have called them, I ran to the local hardware store and found similar bolts and put them in. After talking to some wheeling buddies, I will be adding some blue locktite to these!
 
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rasband said:
I should have called them, I ran to the local hardware store and found similar bolts and put them in. After talking to some wheeling buddies, I will be adding some blue locktite to these!
Click to expand...
I'm probably doing the same, blue loctite. I want to wait and see if there's a reason for them working loose. Maybe I have something touching the crossmember and causing vibrations causing them to work loose. I'm going to check. Nothing was touching when I buttoned everything up initially.
 
JMT said:
I'm probably doing the same, blue loctite. I want to wait and see if there's a reason for them working loose. Maybe I have something touching the crossmember and causing vibrations causing them to work loose. I'm going to check. Nothing was touching when I buttoned everything up initially.
Click to expand...

I've worked through it a few times now, at least for me - I've lost 6-8 or so. The local buddies seem to echo a similar experience - getting these tight is pretty hard!
 
thanks again guys, yes i'm talking about tub denting. my install will include blue loctite from the get-go, again thanks to you guys :)

jmt, i've skimmed your build the last couple hours concentrating on the tt section. at the end, more than once, you say something like

"The Jeep has really come together Jeep this year. It drives and wheels like a dream. It is a sleeper. Everyone who looks at this Jeep doesn’t think much. On the trail, they can’t believe it. I can see them kicking themselves for going to 37’s with long arms and a lot of other junk when they can hardly do anything more than I can do."

this sounds great and what makes this all worthwhile. tomorrow evening is play with model trains night, but friday i'll be back on this. hopefully soon, my before and after measurement pictures :) :)
 
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cmitcham said:
thanks again guys, yes i'm talking about tub denting. my install will include blue loctite from the get-go, again thanks to you guys :)

jmt, i've skimmed your build the last couple hours concentrating on the tt section. at the end, more than once, you say something like

"The Jeep has really come together Jeep this year. It drives and wheels like a dream. It is a sleeper. Everyone who looks at this Jeep doesn’t think much. On the trail, they can’t believe it. I can see them kicking themselves for going to 37’s with long arms and a lot of other junk when they can hardly do anything more than I can do."

this sounds great and what makes this all worthwhile. tomorrow evening is play with model trains night, but friday i'll be back on this. hopefully soon, my before and after measurement pictures :) :)
Click to expand...
The TT was a lot of work, but I enjoyed it, and getting everything dialed in was a dream.

How much do you have to go? Did you do the SYE and DC first? Or the Savvy MUA? Do you have a build thread?
 
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you know better than me what I have left to go. I just got the x-member and c brackets in there for the first time :)

rubicon, so no "sy" to "e". woods dc, even though some have success with stock lj ds. I have ultimate dpg, mml, and jks body lift. the savvy tcase shifter is in, and locker pumps moved under-hood.

no build thread yet, but I am considering a heavy-duty body off frame rust elimination project. i'm not good about taking pics as I go, but i'll try to do better if/when I begin that project.
 
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cmitcham said:
you know better than me what I have left to go. I just got the x-member and c brackets in there for the first time :)

rubicon, so no "sy" to "e". woods dc, even though some have success with stock lj ds. I have ultimate dpg, mml, and jks body lift. the savvy tcase shifter is in, and locker pumps moved under-hood.

no build thread yet, but I am considering a heavy-duty body off frame rust elimination project. i'm not good about taking pics as I go, but i'll try to do better if/when I begin that project.
Click to expand...
Sounds real similar to my build. I haven't really run into anything in MI I can't conquer, except big mud pits.

Whereabouts in Michigan are you? I can lend a hand, if you're close enough.
 
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