Scrat 2.5 to Scrat Limited 5.9

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Paparock1

Paparock1

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Cool swap! Is that the gc front dress,fan and shroud? Also i missed what year tj you have?

On the axle swap issue consider a super 35 kit over the 44hd. Probably a better choice.

On the transfercase side an sye is cheaper for the 231 and it is an inch or so shorter.wider chain and 6 pinion planetary is a simple junkyard swap.but a 242 would be cool for launching that tj.awd and a 5.9 will throw you back hard compared to a 2.5

1997 TJ... i cut down the 2.5 fan shroud and then heated and reshaped it to fit the fan. It is an 11 blade ford fan and A jeep 4.0 heavy duty fan clutch. I wanted a mechnical fan.

I have the 231 and the 242 tcase. Most of my driving is on the street. If I go to MOAB i would stay on the easier trails, if there is such a thing. So i decided in the 242...

I am still back and forth on the rear axle choices.
 
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Paparock1

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That is awesome NEWS.... Sometimes all it takes is stepping away and talking to others. I've done that on more than one occasion during my whole build.
So what is next? What do you have left to do to it at this point? Will you be driving it to work soon?

I ordered the 242 sye today then drive shafts after I get it back together for good measurments. So maybe by January !
 

Wildman

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1997 TJ... i cut down the 2.5 fan shroud and then heated and reshaped it to fit the fan. It is an 11 blade ford fan and A jeep 4.0 heavy duty fan clutch. I wanted a mechnical fan.

I have the 231 and the 242 tcase. Most of my driving is on the street. If I go to MOAB i would stay on the easier trails, if there is such a thing. So i decided in the 242...

I am still back and forth on the rear axle choices.

Even though you say it's mainly a street rig I'd look at all your options for traction aid devices either limited slip or locker for both axles. The 44a had issues with the center section flexing or cracking or breaking. It's known to be weaker than a Dana 35 in some ways.

Because you had a 4 cyl and due to that a 21 spline input on your t-case I can see all the reasons for going with the 242. Honestly there isn't anything wrong with that t-case that I've heard of and you get a AWD feature.

I ordered the 242 sye today then drive shafts after I get it back together for good measurments. So maybe by January !

That is KEWL.... I'm happy as heck for ya and glad you are moving along with it. I know it's got to feel good.

A while back when you'd first tried to start it you thought you had a bad ASD relay. What are the chances that it was actually this short instead and was never the ASD?
 
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Paparock1

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Possibly could have been the short as I wired in a kill switch on the ASD relay. I just got a little sloppy with the wiring.

I have a lunch box locker for I will put in the front axle.

For now, just going to get it moving on Its own power again
 
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Paparock1

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242J SYE installed. rear pinion angle adjusted and pointing at the transfer case output. I was hoping to order my driveshafts today but after looking everything over I am not sure. My coil spring are arched pretty good. I would guess that if they were to reach full articulation they would pop out. So I have questions.

Here is what I have:
4 inch lift, not sure of the brand, adjustable upper control arms.
transfer case output angle measured off the yoke is 5 degrees
rear axle dana 35 pinion angle is 22 degrees measured off the rear of the differential at the case spreader holes
drive shaft length that I need to order is 17 1/8 inches long.

I know pictures are needed but is there a max pinion angle that I should have? I guess I will need to move the upper spring mounts. any thoughts or advice will help me figure this all out. Thank you
 

Rickyd

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4 inch lift and an sye is a cookie cutter combo. You are over thinking something many people before you have done
 
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Paparock1

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Rickyd
Thank you. I understand what you are saying and I could be over thinking, my application has been done several times before I am not sure it is cookie cutter. I should have added that when I welded in the advanced adapter motor mounts That I moved them 2 1/2 inches back from the suggested position as I wanted to run a mechanical fan on the 5.9 V8. I am running the 46re transmission with a 242j transfer case.

Your advice is giving me some piece of mind to just go forward with it. Thank you again
 

Wildman

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As you said pictures would speak more than words here. If I remember correctly when I had my 4" spring lift yes there was a little bow to them but I'm not 100% sure since it was so long ago.
What you do want to do is take the springs out and make sure when at full compression that your upper and lower bumps are lined up. You really need to have adjustable upper and lower control arms to get your axle positioned correctly & centered in the wheelwell. I'd read some of the "How To" threads on doing a lift.

I'm really surprised that your rear driveshaft is as long as it is with the engine pushed back and running the 46RE & NP242.
 
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Paparock1

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Wooohoooo, I drove it down to get gas!!! Its been over a year since it moved on its own power.

A few issues to work out. I bought some rubber transmission line but it did not hold up to the pressure. I am thinking about going down to the junk yard that has quit a few dodge trucks and pulling the hard lines and make those work. I know going to steel braided and AN fittings would be an option if I had too.

One of the concerns is that when I put the transmission in Drive that it will not shift properly but when I put it in 1st and then get it moving I can shift it to Drive and it will shift like it should. But at every stop I have to go back to 1st to get it moving again. Any thoughts about this?
 
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Wildman

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Is your TV cable adjusted properly? My initial shifting issues were PCM related but that doesn't sound like yours.
 

Wildman

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Just to add to what I said yesterday.

"The 46RE has a mechanically controlled 1-2 and 2-3 shift, meaning you must run a TV cable to ensure no damage is done to the transmission."

I found this mentioned and it does sort of sound like your problem.
 
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Paparock1

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I adjusted it earlier today an iy was a few clicks back to far which would delay the input so I hope that is the issue... but until I get the line fixed I am not able to drive it.
 
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Wildman

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I adjusted it earlier today an iy was a few clicks back to far which would delay the input so I hope that is the issue... but until I get the line fixed I am not able to drive it.

On my 5.2 & 44RE I just used push loc fittings and hose made for those fittings. It's actually the easiest and quickest way to make lines. If it was too loose then yes that could have been your sifting issues.

Hope you get to drive it again soon.
 
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Wildman

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I am guessing that push lock fittings are what the fuel system uses? Then you bought aluminum tubing?

'm talking about on my old V-8 setup when I had the 5.2. You'll have to change the fittings on the transmission to AN type but that is easy. Then get 6An or 8AN hose & push loc fittings. Like these from JEG's

https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...gId=10001&langId=-1&q=jegs+push+lock+fittings

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/102257/10002/-1
You can of course find all this on Amazon or your local auto parts store.

Push Loc fittings fit into hose made for them and they will grip & not blow out.
 
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Paparock1

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So today, Drove it 15 miles to a car wash to spray off all the transmission fluid that had leaked from the blown trans line. No leaks and fun to drive. It tops out about 85 mph but maintains it on hills also. I got to keep my foot out of it because 55 mph is now nothing. Before it had to be on flat ground and no head wind LOL.

I drove it to work and back, very fun. I do have some kinks to work through. One being able to take off from a stand still with the transmission in Drive. When I first shift it to drive I can feel it take the load and it feels like a normal automatic transmission. but as soon as I give it gas it acts like the clutches are just slipping. But when I put in in low gear and take off as soon as I get to 10 mph I put the selector into drive and it shifts through the rest of the gears normally. Over drive works and it will kick down when I go to pass and if I am going slower then it will shift down into 2nd and when slowing down to stop or make a turn I can feel it shift into 1st gear but again I give it gas and it acts like it is slipping. I have another 46re that I will most likely rebuild on the bench while I keep driving this as it is.
 

Mike_H

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So today, Drove it 15 miles to a car wash to spray off all the transmission fluid that had leaked from the blown trans line. No leaks and fun to drive. It tops out about 85 mph but maintains it on hills also. I got to keep my foot out of it because 55 mph is now nothing. Before it had to be on flat ground and no head wind LOL.

I drove it to work and back, very fun. I do have some kinks to work through. One being able to take off from a stand still with the transmission in Drive. When I first shift it to drive I can feel it take the load and it feels like a normal automatic transmission. but as soon as I give it gas it acts like the clutches are just slipping. But when I put in in low gear and take off as soon as I get to 10 mph I put the selector into drive and it shifts through the rest of the gears normally. Over drive works and it will kick down when I go to pass and if I am going slower then it will shift down into 2nd and when slowing down to stop or make a turn I can feel it shift into 1st gear but again I give it gas and it acts like it is slipping. I have another 46re that I will most likely rebuild on the bench while I keep driving this as it is.

Good news! Bummer about the transmission, maybe throw a manual valve body in and call it a day?
 
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