Scrat 2.5 to Scrat Limited 5.9

So today, Drove it 15 miles to a car wash to spray off all the transmission fluid that had leaked from the blown trans line. No leaks and fun to drive. It tops out about 85 mph but maintains it on hills also. I got to keep my foot out of it because 55 mph is now nothing. Before it had to be on flat ground and no head wind LOL.

I drove it to work and back, very fun. I do have some kinks to work through. One being able to take off from a stand still with the transmission in Drive. When I first shift it to drive I can feel it take the load and it feels like a normal automatic transmission. but as soon as I give it gas it acts like the clutches are just slipping. But when I put in in low gear and take off as soon as I get to 10 mph I put the selector into drive and it shifts through the rest of the gears normally. Over drive works and it will kick down when I go to pass and if I am going slower then it will shift down into 2nd and when slowing down to stop or make a turn I can feel it shift into 1st gear but again I give it gas and it acts like it is slipping. I have another 46re that I will most likely rebuild on the bench while I keep driving this as it is.

Is it throwing any codes? My issue doesn't sound completely like yours, but when my 46RE had a wiring issue it didn't have first gear and would take off in second. It almost felt like it was slipping but in reality is was working harder to take off in a steeper gear.
 
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In all my transmission issues I had it never set a trouble code.

I think you'll have to search some of the threads I linked for a similar issue or teardown your transmission or try the other one. When I was looking a few years ago you could get a low buck rebuild off Ebay for $1K.
 
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I drove the Jeep back to work again yesterday no issues. After work on the way home at 7pm my dash lights go out which means my tail lights go out. Will need to track that down as it continuously happened. its not a flicker its an out for a few minutes then back on. However on a bit of a positive note I noticed that I didn't have to shift down when starting from a stop. I drive county roads so not much traffic. So I stop and start a few times just leaving it in drive. Works flawlessly. I am getting excited and figure something must have been blocked. I make my last turn and still cant keep my foot out of it and now that it is shifting great I really get into it. Then second gear slips bad while I am standing on it and I cant get off the gas fast enough and then a bang happens inside the transmission. Then it wont go in any gear. The check engine light is now on. Code P0740.

I am in my little two stop light town but on my road. I put the flashers on and get out and lay under the Jeep just to see if I could maybe check to see if a connection came loose to a solenoid. The local cop pulls up and puts his lights on and asks if I am alright. I said yeah I just got this running but my trans stopped working. I said I live just down the road and would call my wife to tow me home. He said ok and headed on down the road. I get back in the jeep and it will not go forward in any gear but it does go into reverse. I put it in reverse and drive the 2 miles home in reverse at 20 MPH with my flashers on at 7:30 pm LOL. It is pretty much a straight shot down the county road and the few people that passed me going the opposite direction slowed down real slow but I kept going. One guy did honk at me. Oh well I got it home.

I am not going to mess with it for a few days. Just stepping away from it. I love it but right now a little frustrated with it.
 
DAMN that sucks.

Here's a starting point.

NO DRIVE RANGE
(REVERSE OK)
1. Fluid Level Low. 1. Add fluid and check for leaks if drive is
restored.
2. Gearshift Linkage/Cable
Loose/Misadjusted.
2. Repair or replace linkage components.
3. Rear Clutch Burnt. 3. Remove and disassemble transmission
and rear clutch and seals. Repair/replace
worn or damaged parts as needed.
4. Valve Body Malfunction. 4. Remove and disassemble valve body.
Replace assembly if any valves or bores
are damaged.
5. Transmission Overrunning Clutch
Broken.
5. Remove and disassemble transmission.
Replace overrunning clutch.
6. Input Shaft Seal Rings Worn/
Damaged.
7. Remove and disassemble transmission.
Replace seal rings and any other worn or
damaged parts.
8. Front Planetary Failed Broken.
9. Remove and repair.

Next help: Try unplugging the 8 pin connector on the drivers side of the trans, 'bout halfway back. This will disable all the electronics in the trans, so, zero automatic function, and no TCC or O/D. You will have to shift manually. See if you get any forward gears that way. If you don't, time to drop the pan, and see if you find anything interesting.

Next: P0740 code means is that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected something unusual within the torque converter clutch circuit. The powertrain control module can vary the application of the torque converter clutch for optimal vehicle performance.

https://www.engine-codes.com/p0740_dodge.html

What the P0740 code means
What the P0740 code means is that the powertrain control module (PCM) has detected something unusual within the torque converter clutch circuit. The powertrain control module can vary the application of the torque converter clutch for optimal vehicle performance. If the torque converter clutch application is abnormal (usually multiple times) the powertrain control module will trigger a Check Engine Light.
What are the causes of the P0740 code?
Some potential causes of the P0740 code may include:
  • A faulty torque converter clutch solenoid
  • A damaged torque converter or clutch
  • Incorrect transmission fluid level
  • Skipping over transmission maintenance
  • A restriction within the transmission
  • Internal transmission damage
  • A faulty powertrain control module or transmission module
What are the symptoms of the P0740 code?
Symptoms of a P0740 code that the driver may experience would include:
  • The transmission not shifting in or out of a particular gear
  • The transmission may shift harshly
  • The torque converter clutch may not engage or disengage causing the vehicle not to move
  • The engine may stall
  • The transmission could overheat
 
I've got this repair manual if you'd like to borrow it.

51WYavOgJaL._AC_.jpg


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012GWGW2E/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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I've never had a 46RE apart but have rebuilt other automatic transmissions so I'll try to help where I can.
 
doing a lot of reading today. Still have not touched the Jeep. but I found something that sounds similar to what happened the other night. what I thought was slipping was most likely the dodge governor solenoid flooding at WOT and not shifting into 2nd gear. I put a transgo shift kit in it to increase pressure etc but it would cause it to flood. There is a fix for it and that is to change to a GM solenoid. I was remembering that the transgo shift kit did recommend upgrading the band strut. I am wondering if that did not break. I will have to drop the pan tomorrow and see what happened for sure.
 
to catch up a bit.

1st. my rear pinion angle was causing my rear springs to arch quit a bit. At that time, I adjusted it without having a rear driveshaft. I had it ordered but not had it here. At the same time I dropped the gas tank and cut the skid plate to raise it up the 1.25" that the body lift made room for. Also at that time I removed the rear adjustable track bar. I bought the JKS track bar adjustment bracket. Once I got the bracket installed and track bar nothing played together properly. it was hitting the gas tank skid pretty bad. However, once I got my Tom Woods drive shaft installed my pinion angle was to high so I lowered it down which made everything at least travel without touching.

2nd. Gas tank skid was pretty easy to cut and weld up. I like the looks of the crawler and other higher end skid plates but I don't see me getting into somewhere that would required it.

It is not drivable now as the transmission went out.

3rd. transmission time, Well I am going to rebuild it, here is the kit I decided on:
https://norcaltransmissionparts.com...smission-rebuild-level-2-kit-1998-02-gas.html
this torque converter: https://floridatorqueconverters.com/Chrysler-Dodge-Jeep-Torque-Converter-22-24.html
and looking at a deep sump pan with drain and temp bungs installed already, think about this one:
https://tsirace.com/product/dodge-4...re9UqLiuj_3Dktm2mWtJzMl7V-dkcIiRoChegQAvD_BwE
and finally to fix the solenoid flooding issue this kit right here: https://transmissioncenter.net/shop...-gm-pressure-control-solenoid-conversion-kit/

Things I notices so far:
I do like the mechanical fan choice I made. it is a little loud but down here in the south it will keep my temps down. I bought a heavy duty clutch for the fan and went with the eleven blade Ford fan (it is in my pervious posts somewhere) I think all I had to do was enlarge the fan mount holes a little for it to work. With what little driving I did the temps were rock steady at 200 degrees, of coarse the is with the gauge in the instrument panel. I plane on running seperate gauges for water temp, oil press, and transmission temps.

The Jeep has a lot more body roll now with the added weight. Not use to that as of yet. but overall I am excited, proud and glad I did the swap. I did not keep any list of how much this cost or what I have in it. I am thanking about going back through the bank account and see where I am at though. I am now curious LOL.
 
When will we start to see some of the transmission rebuild pictures? Really interested in seeing it torn down.

Get the largest trans pan you can but if you haven't pulled it apart yet take a measurement and see how much room you have. I went with a smaller pan because of the tummy tuck that I have & I couldn't of gone much larger.
 
I will have to be more proactive with pictures. I am still waiting on parts to arrive. The weather last week really has slowed the shipping down. When I tried to check my delivery date I got a message that due to weather everything is running behind and we will get a date for your delivery when we figure it all out basically. So I am waiting myself.

I have not ordered a pan as of yet but I also do not have a skid plate idea yet. so I have all the room I need LOL.
 
time fly's, It's been over a month since I updated this. alright, my last few posts was just after my transmission lost all forward gears. I ordered everything that I posted earlier for the transmission rebuild. I found several videos of a man on youtube that owns a transmission shop and makes videos of tear down and things to look for on the 46, 47, 48 re and older transmissions. He actually has several videos on several transmissions. Precision Transmission, most instructional videos I hate but this guy does it right. So after watching hours of video and my ATSG and FSM manuals I begin the tear down.

removed the pan and nothing looked out of place. So I removed the entire transmission and dove in. at the last piece to remove is when I finally find the problem. at the most rear of the front half of the transmission is a sprag clutch with some accordion springs and roller bearings held together in a plastic case. The case melted and the bearings went crazy. The sprag clutch fits in a tapered housing (I forget the actual name) that only allows lockup in one direction and free wheel in another. Basicly its just like a bicycle drive axle with out coaster breaks. some bearings are so wedged in there that I still haven't been able to get them out to save the Jeep 46re transmission case. Thankfully when I bought the Grand Cherokee it came with another transmission. So I took two transmissions apart to make one operation transmission. Which was actually pretty cool that it worked out that way as I could compare when I saw something different in coloring or measurements when inspecting each piece.

The transmission kit I bought had no directions. I paid over 600 dollars for the kit and nothing was there to give me even a little bit of direction where each and every O ring, shim or split washer goes. So it was a slow process but it actually was relatively easy mechanical wise. You just have to have attention to detail and think about everything in detail and take your time. These dodge transmissions have a lot of measurements to get right to ensure that the final output end play is right or else you will have to tear the entire thing back down. When I was tearing my transmission down I realized that someone had already rebuilt the transmission because things were installed incorrectly.

It took about 10 days from removal to reinstallation with around 3 to 5 hours a day working on it. The test drive went well with little adjustments hear and there. I drove it to work a few times but I noticed a problem at low speeds. Under power it awesome all the way through third gear which gets me up to 70 mph. That's quite the change from needing flat surface to go 70 with my 4 angry squirrels lol. but if I were to cruise between 30 and 45 mph the overdrive and the torque converter clutch would kick in and out erratically and with the higher pressure I could really feel it. Anyway I finally sorted that just yesterday. The ECM uses inputs from the vehical speed sensor and throttle position sensor to control the overdrive and TCC solenoids. So for the last 8 days I had been worried I did something wrong internally it was actually not even transmission. After replacing those two sensors it is awesome!

I still have one issue now. My 1997 jeep wire harness does not have an overdrive on off wire or button on it according to the FSM. I see where the input should be on my PCM but I am not sure how to signal the pcm. I dont know if it needs a ground or voltage. that would be the proper way to add it or should I just use a toggle switch and interrupt the signal the pcm is sending to the solenoid? I might get and check engine lite them though. Does anyone have any ideas or experience here? Thank you for reading.
 
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Damn good job diving into the trans rebuild like that! Can you get any wiring info on the GC and how its overdrive button works?

Might be worth looking into the 2003-2006 tj od off button and wiring if you have room in the dash for it?
 
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I still have one issue now. My 1997 jeep wire harness does not have an overdrive on off wire or button on it according to the FSM. I see where the input should be on my PCM but I am not sure how to signal the pcm. I dont know if it needs a ground or voltage. that would be the proper way to add it or should I just use a toggle switch and interrupt the signal the pcm is sending to the solenoid? I might get and check engine lite them though. Does anyone have any ideas or experience here? Thank you for reading.

Awesome JOB on the transmission rebuild. I use to rebuild a few for the Ford garage I worked at and it's a PITA and time consuming.

OK you need to run the wire coming off the PCM for the OD to a relay & then hook the other side of the relay circuit to ground. Hook a momentary switch to power the relay & when you send a momentary signal to ground the transmission it will unlock 4th & then hit the switch again to enable 4th.
You can also run the sense wire if you want to have a light like stock that will tell you OD if on/off.

The black switch was for the transmission and the red lighted switch was for my electric fan. Let me know if I can help anymore with it.

IMGP0338[1].jpg
 
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Thanks for asking, I haven't been on here as much lately.

My PSC power steering pump I messed up by installing a pulley improperly dumb and lazy on my part. So I had to use the back out of the EOM pump. they were identical but when I changed them out I did not replace the O ring as I didn't have any new ones and I didn't have any assembly lube I just used the power steering fluid. I must have pinch a piece of the o ring because it is leaking pretty bad so I just parked and ordered a seal kit. It just came in yesterday.

I set my fuel sync to 0, it was only off a little, 1 to 2. and then I reset the IAC and throttle position and I think one other sensor and that made a difference and runs smoother.

My transmission, Second gear still shift harsh at part throttle, at full throttle it launches from 1 to 2 and then 2 to 3rd. Its fun but its just to harsh at part throttle. I took my time and adjusted the front band to get the best setting I could. It took me about ten little test drives fine tuning it and I did get it a bit smoother that it was. I had ordered a DNJ GM solenoid conversion kit. If you don't know that fixes the 2 gear solenoid flooding issue these 46re's have with a factory solenoid. I have a Borg warner heavy duty solenoid that I am going to put in the factory casting and put that back in and I am betting that it will fix the issue. I think it is just getting to much pressure on the up shift at part throttle. I will do that tomorrow. While I have the pan down I will readjust the rear band just to make sure.
The Dodge PCM I got from a guy on Facebook thank fully does not have the death flash. I even think that it might have some sort of tune on it because this engine is not a dog like people have said. I am not sure how to tell if it does have a tune of some sort. I can put it in low and put my foot to the floor and my 33 inch tires with 4.56 gears spin a little. its not like I can roast them but It does kick a little sideways.

So overall I am very happy just fine tuning little things here and there. Thank you for asking.
 
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Thanks for asking, I haven't been on here as much lately.

My PSC power steering pump I messed up by installing a pulley improperly dumb and lazy on my part. So I had to use the back out of the EOM pump. they were identical but when I changed them out I did not replace the O ring as I didn't have any new ones and I didn't have any assembly lube I just used the power steering fluid. I must have pinch a piece of the o ring because it is leaking pretty bad so I just parked and ordered a seal kit. It just came in yesterday.

I set my fuel sync to 0, it was only off a little, 1 to 2. and then I reset the IAC and throttle position and I think one other sensor and that made a difference and runs smoother.

My transmission, Second gear still shift harsh at part throttle, at full throttle it launches from 1 to 2 and then 2 to 3rd. Its fun but its just to harsh at part throttle. I took my time and adjusted the front band to get the best setting I could. It took me about ten little test drives fine tuning it and I did get it a bit smoother that it was. I had ordered a DNJ GM solenoid conversion kit. If you don't know that fixes the 2 gear solenoid flooding issue these 46re's have with a factory solenoid. I have a Borg warner heavy duty solenoid that I am going to put in the factory casting and put that back in and I am betting that it will fix the issue. I think it is just getting to much pressure on the up shift at part throttle. I will do that tomorrow. While I have the pan down I will readjust the rear band just to make sure.
The Dodge PCM I got from a guy on Facebook thank fully does not have the death flash. I even think that it might have some sort of tune on it because this engine is not a dog like people have said. I am not sure how to tell if it does have a tune of some sort. I can put it in low and put my foot to the floor and my 33 inch tires with 4.56 gears spin a little. its not like I can roast them but It does kick a little sideways.

So overall I am very happy just fine tuning little things here and there. Thank you for asking.

Awesome. Sounds like you are getting there with it. Did you get your O/D fixed? Since I've never driven my 46RE yet I don't know what the builder did to it. The 44RE I had before was pretty smooth most of the time.
 
yes it turned out to be a Throttle Position Sensor, The PCM uses the information from the TPS and the vehicle speed sensor on the Transfer case to control the Torque converter clutch, TCC and the overdrive Lockup solenoid. The governor pressure sensor next to the governor solenoid or lockup solenoid only sends a signal to the PCM that there is pressure, it does not use the signal to control the shift points or the governor solenoid. I replaced both sensors and it now shifts in and out of overdrive as it should above 35 miles an hour. no more hunting for the gear feel.
 
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