Sell 35s and go with 33s?

[glwood]

@Justin Shaw, will Discount Tire still swap them back to 33s at no cost to you? If so, I would be back there tomorrow to tell them, personally. While 35s sound cool, I personally would have made them get what I ordered, and not taken the 35s they ordered wrong. It probably is just me, but the 35" tires look out of proportion. Just my take. I don't know how long you drove it with the tires it came with, but you know about how it handled with 33s. Do you have any photos of the TJ with the tires it had before?

Very nice TJ, by the way.

 

[Fouledplugs]

@Justin Shaw, will Discount Tire still swap them back to 33s at no cost to you? If so, I would be back there tomorrow to tell them, personally. While 35s sound cool, I personally would have made them get what I ordered, and not taken the 35s they ordered wrong. It probably is just me, but the 35" tires look out of proportion. Just my take. I don't know how long you drove it with the tires it came with, but you know about how it handled with 33s. Do you have any photos of the TJ with the tires it had before?

Very nice TJ, by the way.

Theoretically couldn't he sale the 35’ss and pocket some money and then buy 33’s and still have some cash left over?

 

[glwood]

Theoretically couldn't he sale the 35’ss and pocket some money and then buy 33’s and still have some cash left over?

Absolutely, if he wanted to go through the trouble of selling them. Providing a sale would cover the cost of a second round of mounting and balancing, plus any road hazard warranty purchased...

 

[billiebob]

Stock a Wrangler is plenty tough. 33s are kind of the end of the line to stay stock but 31s, 32s do fine stock until you do the extreme off road. Lots of ways to get clearance other than a 4" lift and all the other driveline mods that entails. Flex is mostly about clearing the fenders and a HighLine Kit or recip saw can give that clearance without any lift. Keeping the suspension stock eliminates all the driveline stress when you lift it and change all the geometry.

Most 4 wheeling distributes power fairly evenly front to rear and therefore in 4WD you are only putting half the power to each axle compared to 2WD where all the power goes to the rear axle. Hence the Dana 30 with a Dana 35 or Dana 44 in the rear. The real exception is in rock crawling where when all locked up in 4LO you can have massive traction on any 1 wheel as you press up against a piece of granite, and massive torque loading on that wheel assembly. That just does not happen in mud, sand, snow, gravel.

The bigger the tire, stickier the compound, lower the tire pressure, the more traction and therefore torque you can transfer to 1 wheel assembly when all locked in 4LO. Anyone who rock climbs knows granite delivers better traction than any other surface. Therefore rock crawling is the most destructive terrain to run in any vehicle and the need to "harden" a rock crawler is a requirement if you run larger than stock tires on a Rubicon or if you run anything less than a Rubicon in the rocks.

If you like to tinker and fix things as they break, have at the 35s, 37s. But if you want to explore without having to carry a second vehicle of parts.... stick with 33s or smaller. At 60, I'm done with the trail fixes. I now run 33s on a TJR with all stock suspension, no lift, just an AEV HighLine. I use the lockers and 4WD to avoid wheel spin and not need "momentum" to get thru the next obstacle. 210K miles later, I've replaced lots of parts as they wear out but never broken anything on the trail. I'll check all the driveline joints before every major trip... 4, 5 times a year... and replace anything showing wear before I leave town.

Figure out what you want to do and build for that. If you want to drive the biggest Wrangler to the mall.... have at 'er. Wranglers are one of the easiest vehicles to personalize.....

 

[Rob5589]

Be like a feather on the gas pedel. You might have to tip toe around off road. Or just drive it normal and see what happens.

Note: Hear say, but 4.0 and a Dana 35. Could be a bone stock 35 or could be “built.” I have no idea. All I know is it broke.

Fairly typical way to break things, spinning then grabbing.. Nailed the gas, the left tire was spinning then dropped off into a hole and grabbed, "PING!"

 

[JMT]

Stock a Wrangler is plenty tough. 33s are kind of the end of the line to stay stock but 31s, 32s do fine stock until you do the extreme off road. Lots of ways to get clearance other than a 4" lift and all the other driveline mods that entails. Flex is mostly about clearing the fenders and a HighLine Kit or recip saw can give that clearance without any lift. Keeping the suspension stock eliminates all the driveline stress when you lift it and change all the geometry.

Most 4 wheeling distributes power fairly evenly front to rear and therefore in 4WD you are only putting half the power to each axle compared to 2WD where all the power goes to the rear axle. Hence the Dana 30 with a Dana 35 or Dana 44 in the rear. The real exception is in rock crawling where when all locked up in 4LO you can have massive traction on any 1 wheel as you press up against a piece of granite, and massive torque loading on that wheel assembly. That just does not happen in mud, sand, snow, gravel.

The bigger the tire, stickier the compound, lower the tire pressure, the more traction and therefore torque you can transfer to 1 wheel assembly when all locked in 4LO. Anyone who rock climbs knows granite delivers better traction than any other surface. Therefore rock crawling is the most destructive terrain to run in any vehicle and the need to "harden" a rock crawler is a requirement if you run larger than stock tires on a Rubicon or if you run anything less than a Rubicon in the rocks.

If you like to tinker and fix things as they break, have at the 35s, 37s. But if you want to explore without having to carry a second vehicle of parts.... stick with 33s or smaller. At 60, I'm done with the trail fixes. I now run 33s on a TJR with all stock suspension, no lift, just an AEV HighLine. I use the lockers and 4WD to avoid wheel spin and not need "momentum" to get thru the next obstacle. 210K miles later, I've replaced lots of parts as they wear out but never broken anything on the trail. I'll check all the driveline joints before every major trip... 4, 5 times a year... and replace anything showing wear before I leave town.

Figure out what you want to do and build for that. If you want to drive the biggest Wrangler to the mall.... have at 'er. Wranglers are one of the easiest vehicles to personalize.....

Somebody knows some truth.

Granite be sticky. Torque increase is wild.