Shaking and stalling when slowing down. 32RH transmission issue?

You might better hang with the auto if you're having knee problems already. I had a CJ7 in 85 and burned the clutch out pulling up a stump, got it though, but replaced it with a race car clutch, I think that was was the beginning of the end of my left knee lol.
 
thank

Thank you Chris you were very helpful as always if anything else comes to mind regarding my issue let me know I'll check for leaks tomorrow if I can find a fogger for cheap
That wasn't sass. I'm not aware of any vacuum leaks that lower RPM to almost stall. Usually they have the opposite effect. It doesn't hurt to check all the vacuum lines but you would likely notice an issue with the HVAC controls if you have AC first.

What I would look for is a faulty torque converter lock up circuit. I have heard of being able to force lock-up and having it kill the engine at idle. That was reported when folks were doing some experiments to see if they could control the lock up independently to assist on trails. The trouble sounds like the converter isn't unlocking. Since it is intermittent, I would check the wiring at the rear of the trans pan on the driver's side and follow that up over the trans and forward by the exhaust.
 
That wasn't sass. I'm not aware of any vacuum leaks that lower RPM to almost stall. Usually they have the opposite effect. It doesn't hurt to check all the vacuum lines but you would likely notice an issue with the HVAC controls if you have AC first.

What I would look for is a faulty torque converter lock up circuit. I have heard of being able to force lock-up and having it kill the engine at idle. That was reported when folks were doing some experiments to see if they could control the lock up independently to assist on trails. The trouble sounds like the converter isn't unlocking. Since it is intermittent, I would check the wiring at the rear of the trans pan on the driver's side and follow that up over the trans and forward by the exhaust.
Thank you sassy..just kidding I really do appreciate the help and imput though
 
That wasn't sass. I'm not aware of any vacuum leaks that lower RPM to almost stall. Usually they have the opposite effect. It doesn't hurt to check all the vacuum lines but you would likely notice an issue with the HVAC controls if you have AC first.

What I would look for is a faulty torque converter lock up circuit. I have heard of being able to force lock-up and having it kill the engine at idle. That was reported when folks were doing some experiments to see if they could control the lock up independently to assist on trails. The trouble sounds like the converter isn't unlocking. Since it is intermittent, I would check the wiring at the rear of the trans pan on the driver's side and follow that up over the trans and forward by the exhaust.
Yes, this will be your issue. Converters staying locked up.
 
So what exactly am I looking for clipped or exposed wires? Or like an unplugged harness

Since it’s intermittent, not likely that the wire would be cut or unplugged and you’d likely see a CEL.

But it could be some exposure (where the casing has rubbed off), or pinching with a small slice around a tub or other seam, etc. Some guys have luck just unplugging and replugging the connectors (in the case of some corrosion in the connector).

Here’s one example from the random interwebs:

bare-wire-short1.jpg
 
So what exactly am I looking for clipped or exposed wires? Or like an unplugged harness
Not sure to be honest. I’ve never had it happen but it matches your description. I’m aware of these symptoms because of my knowledge of Dodge/Ram Cummins pickups. On the early four speed autos you could tap into the converter control wires and put in a toggle switch and manually lock up the converter anytime you wanted but if you forgot to shut it off, you’d get the symptoms your describing. So something is triggering your TCM (transmission control module)(if these older Jeeps have one?) to keep it locked at the wrong times. Could be the module itself, wires shorting somewhere, a plug with moisture in it at times etc. Can be a tough one to track. I would follow all wires to and from the tranny looking for damage etc. as well as any to and from the ECM etc.
 
Since it’s intermittent, not likely that the wire would be cut or unplugged and you’d likely see a CEL.

But it could be some exposure (where the casing has rubbed off), or pinching with a small slice around a tub or other seam, etc. Some guys have luck just unplugging and replugging the connectors (in the case of some corrosion in the connector).

Here’s one example from the random interwebs:

View attachment 119510
It has been many years since the switched option was discussed but I seem to recall that in order to lock up the converter, all you had to do was supply ground to one of the wires in the circuit which supports the intermittent and worn insulation fairly well.
 
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Not sure to be honest. I’ve never had it happen but it matches your description. I’m aware of these symptoms because of my knowledge of Dodge/Ram Cummins pickups. On the early four speed autos you could tap into the converter control wires and put in a toggle switch and manually lock up the converter anytime you wanted but if you forgot to shut it off, you’d get the symptoms your describing. So something is triggering your TCM (transmission control module)(if these older Jeeps have one?) to keep it locked at the wrong times. Could be the module itself, wires shorting somewhere, a plug with moisture in it at times etc. Can be a tough one to track. I would follow all wires to and from the tranny looking for damage etc. as well as any to and from the ECM etc.
I am by no means a tj expert....yet but i was under the impression the the pcm and tcm are the same unit on these jeeps can any one confirm?
 
Why would you want to manually lock your converter?
It has been many years since the switched option was discussed but I seem to recall that in order to lock up the converter, all you had to do was supply ground to one of the wires in the circuit which supports the intermittent and worn insulation fairly well.
 
Since it’s intermittent, not likely that the wire would be cut or unplugged and you’d likely see a CEL.

But it could be some exposure (where the casing has rubbed off), or pinching with a small slice around a tub or other seam, etc. Some guys have luck just unplugging and replugging the connectors (in the case of some corrosion in the connector).

Here’s one example from the random interwebs:

View attachment 119510
See thats what is weird is the only code my jeep ever threw is p0455 for the evap
 
Sorry I'm late to the game - hopefully your issue is resolved. However... Try unplugging the clockspring in your steering wheel. I had a similar issue and was given that advice and that was the solution. I was told it shared a ground in the PCM with a part of the fuel system. You will lose power to horn/DS airbag/cruise control. I just rewired the horn to a button on the dash, live without an airbag, and didn't have cruise to begin with.
 
Sorry I'm late to the game - hopefully your issue is resolved. However... Try unplugging the clockspring in your steering wheel. I had a similar issue and was given that advice and that was the solution. I was told it shared a ground in the PCM with a part of the fuel system. You will lose power to horn/DS airbag/cruise control. I just rewired the horn to a button on the dash, live without an airbag, and didn't have cruise to begin with.
Ill try it nothing ive tryed so fas far worked and its getting worse lol
 
Hey i need to revive this as I haven't solved this problem yet and I have more information on this weird problem it doesn't happen if I lock the trans in second gear and it shifts into 3rd at 20 mph
 
Can you temporarily unplug the torque converter lock connector and see I if it eliminates the problem? If it is unplugged, it will not lock. Drive it for a few days like that and see if the problem is gone. It will throw a CEL, but you can clear that after the test.
 
Can you temporarily unplug the torque converter lock connector and see I if it eliminates the problem? If it is unplugged, it will not lock. Drive it for a few days like that and see if the problem is gone. It will throw a CEL, but you can clear that after the test.
thank you man I'll give it a try