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Ahh, figures it's an Apple thing. I'm an Android developer, and it figures Google isn't interested in adding lidar to their Pixels.

Boolean operations! I literally just taught myself how to do that in FreeCAD yesterday.

Hah, all good man, just teasin'

Yeah, its an Apple thing. Its also available on the Ipad pro models.

I personally do not enjoy Apple, but its the phone provided by work..... Cant complain about a free phone.

Speaking of Pixel, I need to upgrade my personal phone, the ole Galaxy Note 9. Tempted to go for that new 9 Pro Fold or the Samsung Fold 6.

I can score a deal through my provider to trade in the note 9 and get $1100 off the Fold 6... So I might go that route.
 

Hmm, interesting. When I went under the hood to see what size/rating fuses were there, I didn't notice that little spot.

Now you have me re-thinking my design. If I split the max fuses off the model and store them in the PDC, I can make it a lot thinner and take some height off too, and the mini fuses/puller will fit even better in that spot behind the glovebox.

I do like having the mini fuses in the cabin, if only to keep them closest to their use point.
 
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Well got under the hood to look for this spot again and now I know why I missed it - my PDC has a different layout! Doesn't look like I have that space.

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I made another thing. I've got an aftermarket Double DIN head unit, and the Metra 95-6549 Double DIN dash kit. The kit comes with two useless panels for where the ashtray went, so I used their panel as a template and designed my own so I could put the HDMI & USB-C inputs for the head unit there.

It works pretty well, though someday I might try and inset the panel similar to how the cigarette lighter panel is so I can get the connector inset and vertical. But for now, this works. STL attached.

PXL_20240925_013437276.jpg
 

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I think I have a problem. Here's my 3rd model. Designed up a replacement for the early model courtesy lights under the dash (I guess they're the YJ/CJ style?). Some dude wanted $30 on ebay for his 3d printed set, not paying that. Took me a couple of hours to draw up. Just got to add the retainer bumps and it'll be perfect.
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Nice! I would never have guessed that it would let that much light through.

White filaments are pretty cool, look up 3D printed Lithophanes.

The filament will allow light through if the source is close enough and bright enough.

@Mogul345 time to model the ole pentastar logo onto those caps so it gives you a puddle light in your floorboard :ROFLMAO:
 
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White filaments are pretty cool, look up 3D printed Lithophanes.

The filament will allow light through if the source is close enough and bright enough.

@Mogul345 time to model the ole pentastar logo onto those caps so it gives you a puddle light in your floorboard :ROFLMAO:

So, I got myself a new Bambu X1C and I gave it a couple of different tries (printing a black pentastar on the white cap, making a black cap with just a white pentastar) and it sadly always washes out, you can't see it :(
 
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So, I got myself a new Bambu X1C and I gave it a couple of different tries (printing a black pentastar on the white cap, making a black cap with just a white pentastar) and it sadly always washes out, you can't see it :(

Have you looked into the 0.2mm print head?

https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-x1-series

They show it holds tight details better.

I have no experience yet. Just got an X1C the other day but it's in the box waiting for setup in the coming weeks.
 
Have you looked into the 0.2mm print head?

https://store.bambulab.com/products/bambu-hotend-x1-series

They show it holds tight details better.

I have no experience yet. Just got an X1C the other day but it's in the box waiting for setup in the coming weeks.
Oh, not really having issues with the actual logo washing out. I'm amazed by the print quality of the X1C compared to my old cheap Anycubic Kobra. But when installed they don't make a difference. Both of these attempts, when I put them over the bulb, you can't make out the logo on the floor at all. Makes me think those lights in new cars are using some sort of lens system or something.

At this point, I've given up on this, at least for the moment. Have other things I need to print.
PXL_20241206_053507687.jpg
 
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Oh, not really having issues with the actual logo washing out. I'm amazed by the print quality of the X1C compared to my old cheap Anycubic Kobra. But when installed they don't make a difference. Both of these attempts, when I put them over the bulb, you can't make out the logo on the floor at all. Makes me think those lights in new cars are using some sort of lens system or something.

At this point, I've given up on this, at least for the moment. Have other things I need to print.
View attachment 577386

I misunderstood your intent; I was thinking rear-projection onto the 3D printed materials.

This is a cool project you're trying. They have more transparent PETG materials that likely would work better than then white you're printed. Maybe... Just an idea to consider.

https://store.bambulab.com/products/petg-translucent
 
Oh, not really having issues with the actual logo washing out. I'm amazed by the print quality of the X1C compared to my old cheap Anycubic Kobra. But when installed they don't make a difference. Both of these attempts, when I put them over the bulb, you can't make out the logo on the floor at all. Makes me think those lights in new cars are using some sort of lens system or something.

At this point, I've given up on this, at least for the moment. Have other things I need to print.
View attachment 577386

I'm no where near an expert on light waves, but have you tried to narrow the pathways as they leave the bulb? Focus the light? Just an idea that popped in my head from the designs you posted (without more details of those designs).

I'd suspect you need to 'focus' the light, not just have a lens for it.
 
I misunderstood your intent; I was thinking rear-projection onto the 3D printed materials.

This is a cool project you're trying. They have more transparent PETG materials that likely would work better than then white you're printed. Maybe... Just an idea to consider.

https://store.bambulab.com/products/petg-translucent

Hmm, I think that's what I'm doing? These are just a modification of the bulb covers I shared earlier. So the bulb is shining downwards towards the floor, and thus the light would shine through.

With the one on the right, I was hoping the black Pentastar would block enough light to show up as a dark spot. With the one on the left I tried to block all light except what was going through the Pentastar.

I'm no where near an expert on light waves, but have you tried to narrow the pathways as they leave the bulb? Focus the light? Just an idea that popped in my head from the designs you posted (without more details of those designs).

I'd suspect you need to 'focus' the light, not just have a lens for it.

Yeah, I was thinking that I'd need to do something like that, but I don't really know what to do in that regard. I was thinking I could exaggerate the space between the pieces of the Pentastar (make the "star" in the one on the left have thicker legs) but I am getting out of my depth. To get the Pentastar I found an SVG of it, extruded it to 3d, and then did some boolean ops to get what you see above. Editing the SVG is beyond my current capabilities, and I don't know what I'm doing in Blender either, which I think might be easier to do this in rather than parametrically in FreeCAD. But like I said, I'm not sure what to do next to focus the light.
 
Hmm, I think that's what I'm doing? These are just a modification of the bulb covers I shared earlier. So the bulb is shining downwards towards the floor, and thus the light would shine through.

With the one on the right, I was hoping the black Pentastar would block enough light to show up as a dark spot. With the one on the left I tried to block all light except what was going through the Pentastar.



Yeah, I was thinking that I'd need to do something like that, but I don't really know what to do in that regard. I was thinking I could exaggerate the space between the pieces of the Pentastar (make the "star" in the one on the left have thicker legs) but I am getting out of my depth. To get the Pentastar I found an SVG of it, extruded it to 3d, and then did some boolean ops to get what you see above. Editing the SVG is beyond my current capabilities, and I don't know what I'm doing in Blender either, which I think might be easier to do this in rather than parametrically in FreeCAD. But like I said, I'm not sure what to do next to focus the light.

While near the source, there is always opportunity to focus both the input and output.

My original comment was to focus the source with a narrowing lens.

The more I think about it, I think you need to overly narrow the lens to get the desired print at distance.

Practice with a simple figure like a dot and then a square

I'd bet the dot turns into a circle with a measurable diameter and the square is distorted in some lensing effect.

I think you're jumping to a complicated output without some scientific method approaches.

Trial and error can get you there.
 
Oh, not really having issues with the actual logo washing out. I'm amazed by the print quality of the X1C compared to my old cheap Anycubic Kobra. But when installed they don't make a difference. Both of these attempts, when I put them over the bulb, you can't make out the logo on the floor at all. Makes me think those lights in new cars are using some sort of lens system or something.

At this point, I've given up on this, at least for the moment. Have other things I need to print.
View attachment 577386

I printed this as a joke for my wife. But it has the same colors so if you interrogate the file you can see how they did it. It's a very clear and well made print.

The reason it's a joke is because it is all black on the back so I had her pull it from the printer while I was at work and of course when she flips it over she gets a surprise.

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https://makerworld.com/en/models/604749?from=search#profileId-527478
 
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Anyone have a model for a 2 1/16" gauge pod? I need to mount a wet oil pressure gauge and a wideband O2 gauge for the stroker I'm building.