"Sharp edges" possible issue on intake after 62mm throttle body upgrade causing whistle?

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i put a banks coldair(ram air) on my 06 4.0 along with their cat back exhaust. also got their tuner. i can honestly say that i had to replace their tune with the oem tune as it clattered and pinged bad no matter what grade of fuel used. cold air is still on the jeep cause i wasn’t smart enough to keep oem setup. actually like the sound of the cat back. was this worth the $ spent? i think not. my experience was 100% butt dino tested. did all of this before joining this wealth of knowledge of a forum.
 
i put a banks coldair(ram air) on my 06 4.0 along with their cat back exhaust. also got their tuner. i can honestly say that i had to replace their tune with the oem tune as it clattered and pinged bad no matter what grade of fuel used. cold air is still on the jeep cause i wasn’t smart enough to keep oem setup. actually like the sound of the cat back. was this worth the $ spent? i think not. my experience was 100% butt dino tested. did all of this before joining this wealth of knowledge of a forum.

What do you mean by clattered and pinged?
 
What do you mean by clattered and pinged?

engine ran like shit due to advanced timing of the bank’s tune. runs better on stock oem tune. 93 octane wasn’t enough to help with the bank’s tune. forgot about the bank’s header earlier. will go back to stock exhaust manifold if or when bank’s header cracks.
 
engine ran like shit due to advanced timing of the bank’s tune. runs better on stock oem tune. 93 octane wasn’t enough to help with the bank’s tune. forgot about the bank’s header earlier. will go back to stock exhaust manifold if or when bank’s header cracks.

What was wrong with the manifold?
 
What was wrong with the manifold?

there was nothing wrong with my oem exhaust manifold. i thought the bank’s performance package would do something. therefore i installed their header, cold air kit, cat back exhaust and tuner. no bang for my bucks spent. exhaust sounds nice though. unless you build a stroker engine or install a supercharger/turbo don’t expect much more from a 4.0.
 
how can more air with the same amount of fuel make a difference?
That's pretty much the point. It can't, because the ECU will adjust itself to nullify the change.
there was nothing wrong with my oem exhaust manifold. i thought the bank’s performance package would do something. therefore i installed their header, cold air kit, cat back exhaust and tuner. no bang for my bucks spent. unless you build a stroker engine or install a supercharger/turbo don’t expect much more from a 4.0.
Exactly the same as above. Add ons that helped older, non ECU controlled engines, can't do ANYTHING for an ECU engine, because the ECU has set parameters that it wants to run. You make a change, IT makes a change.
 
i put a banks coldair(ram air) on my 06 4.0 along with their cat back exhaust. also got their tuner. i can honestly say that i had to replace their tune with the oem tune as it clattered and pinged bad no matter what grade of fuel used. cold air is still on the jeep cause i wasn’t smart enough to keep oem setup. actually like the sound of the cat back. was this worth the $ spent? i think not. my experience was 100% butt dino tested. did all of this before joining this wealth of knowledge of a forum.

Interesting.

I ran a banks cold air (ram air), magnaflow muffler, and no third cat without any problems on my 2005. I added Flyin Ryan’s stock tune and it felt a tiny bit more enjoyable to ride. I believe Ryan said that the tune should add around 15 hp depending on intake/exhaust.

I’d say it was worth it in my case because I was replacing a super rusted cheapo aftermarket intake that I inherited, I didn’t want the stock muffler, and the tune was part of bumping up my idle that was too low and couldn’t be raised by turning the idle screw or changing the iac valve or tps. No pre-ignition or detonation issues at any point.

I recently installed a banks turbo using their tuner. I don’t need an engine/chassis dyno to know that this package added power. Rather than lugging along or overrevving up a steep grade, I passed cars going up a long steep grade going 75-90 and my highest rpm was around 3200.
 
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That's pretty much the point. It can't, because the ECU will adjust itself to nullify the change.

Exactly the same as above. Add ons that helped older, non ECU controlled engines, can't do ANYTHING for an ECU engine, because the ECU has set parameters that it wants to run. You make a change, IT makes a change.
Really? By which mode or method does the JTEC PCM do that?
 
Interesting.

I added a banks cold air (ram air), magnaflow muffler, and no third cat without any problems on my 2005. I added Flyin Ryan’s stock tune and it felt a tiny bit more enjoyable to ride. I believe Ryan said that the tune should add around 15 hp depending on intake/exhaust.

I’d say it was worth it in my case because I was replacing a super rusted cheapo aftermarket intake that I inherited, I didn’t want the stock muffler, and the tune was part of bumping up my idle that was too low and couldn’t be raised by turning the idle screw or changing the iac valve or tps. No pre-ignition or detonation issues at any point.

I recently installed a banks turbo using their tuner. I don’t need an engine/chassis dyno to know that this package added power. Rather than lugging along or overrevving up a steep grade, I passed cars going up a long steep grade going 75-90 and my highest rpm was around 3200.

Edit: I have at least one exhaust manifold leak so I’m having a ceramic coated JBA manifold installed (CARB approved) since I don’t trust the Banks manifold.

everyone says the banks header will crack eventually so i’m waiting for that day and will go back to the oem exhaust manifold. understand the turbo thing as i have a f-150 with the 3.5 ecoboost (twin turbo) and it’s a beast. sure wish the $ i spent on the bank’s stuff wasn’t a bust. 4.0 couldn’t handle any of the bank’s tunes on even 93 octane. i know gale banks has made a name for himself in the turbo area for years and that’s why i went with their bolt on’s. i figure anything less than their turbo system is a bust on a 4.0. glad your setup works well for you.
 
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everyone says the banks header will crack eventually so i’m waiting for that day and will go back to the oem exhaust manifold. understand the turbo thing as i have a f-150 with the 3.5 ecoboost (twin turbo) and it’s a beast. sure wish the $ i spent on the bank’s stuff wasn’t a bust. 4.0 couldn’t handle any of the bank’s tunes on even 93 octane. i know gale banks has made a name for himself in the turbo area for years and that’s why i went with their bolt on’s. i figure anything less than their turbo system is a bust on a 4.0. glad your setup works well for you.

I recently purchased a JBA manifold for that reason after realizing that my oem is leaking in at least one spot. We’ll see how it goes. My talk with bank’s staff didn’t help me trust their product even though they didn’t admit to any problems with their part.
 
That's pretty much the point. It can't, because the ECU will adjust itself to nullify the change.

Exactly the same as above. Add ons that helped older, non ECU controlled engines, can't do ANYTHING for an ECU engine, because the ECU has set parameters that it wants to run. You make a change, IT makes a change.

You are just repeating the same trash many people on this forum that have no idea how it works preach.
 
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You are just repeating the same trash many people on this forum that have no idea how it works preach.

Wouldn't additional metered air cause the ECU to add fuel in an attempt to meet the desired Air/Fuel ratio?

If so, then wouldn't it make sense that the ECU doesn't get to simply ignore the additional metered air?

Legit trying to learn.
 
You are just repeating the same trash many people on this forum that have no idea how it works preach.

I'm repeating the same information that people far more knowledgeable than myself have said. As far as I know, the ECU works by magic. But I don't have to know how to make penicillin to know that it fights infection, do I? I certainly couldn't build a radio either, but I know what a radio does.
Why is my post "trash" just because I haven't personally done the test to prove the results?
 
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I'm repeating the same information that people far more knowledgeable than myself have said. As far as I know, the ECU works by magic. But I don't have to know how to make penicillin to know that it fights infection, do I? I certainly couldn't build a radio either, but I know what a radio does.
Why is my post "trash" just because I haven't personally done the test to prove the results?

I believe he’s essentially saying that you are repeating incorrect info.

Fwiw, I have no dog in this fight other than wanting to know correct info.
 
Apologies if I sounded gruff at you. My gruff tone was to the bad info.

First off, specific to our PCM, there is no knock sensor and timing is basically set on tables with only sensors like coolant temp, MAP, TPS, RPM, and IAT (I'm probably missing one) telling it where to look on the map. The PCM doesn't look at the O2 sensor for timing, period. What the O2 sensor does get factored in to is fueling in both long and short term trims, and all of this is in closed loop (read not wide open throttle).

The kernel of truth that gets twisted in to bad info is that the fixed maps the PCM looks to for wide open throttle can get moved slightly for lack of a better description by the long term fuel trims. The affect this has on WOT fuelling is small and the power difference is negligible. Now, the PCM can tell in closed loop that something changed and will try and get back to the program fuel ratio to a point (outside of set parameters and you get a CEL) but that only affects closed loop (part throttle) driving conditions.

The PCM has no way to see that you are running richer/leaner at WOT and it's not trying to adjust your new power away to get back to where it was. It doesn't have the ability.
 
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