Shocks contacting rear spring perch

macleanflood

I break sh!t
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So recently installed Savvy control arms. Matched the length of my oem arms and installed them. Matched the length I had set of a pair of cheap single adjustable upper rear arms...then since I had the double adjustable Savvys I backed down a full turn to remove some rear pinion angle and less vibes.

Driving into town I went over a railroad crossing and blew the driver rear shock. Bump stops are still in the OEM position and I have 4" Currie springs. Possible I bottomed out the shock...but looking at oil stains in my driveway I think that Black Max was leaking previously.

Skyjacker didn't have a replacement available. Ended up buying another on Amazon. Both are making contact withe the spring perches.

Obvious solution is to outboard...is there a cheaper quick fix? Clearance the perch? Adjust the arms? Add a spacer to the lower mount?

-Mac

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I cut about an inch of the perch off and welded a piece of steel, perpendicular to the face of the perch such that it provided continuation of the upturned perch lip, back on. Works great.
 
So recently installed Savvy control arms. Matched the length of my oem arms and installed them. Matched the length I had set of a pair of cheap single adjustable upper rear arms...then since I had the double adjustable Savvys I backed down a full turn to remove some rear pinion angle and less vibes.

Driving into town I went over a railroad crossing and blew the driver rear shock. Bump stops are still in the OEM position and I have 4" Currie springs. Possible I bottomed out the shock...but looking at oil stains in my driveway I think that Black Max was leaking previously.

Skyjacker didn't have a replacement available. Ended up buying another on Amazon. Both are making contact withe the spring perches.

Obvious solution is to outboard...is there a cheaper quick fix? Clearance the perch? Adjust the arms? Add a spacer to the lower mount?

-Mac

View attachment 517636

View attachment 517637

Yup, just trim the perches.

I had to do the same after switching from black maxes to ranchos in Moab (cans up to cans down).
 
they sell a shock relocator... they are cheap and works for exactly that failure mode you seen... it is my understanding that even Rough country ones are good enough.... they are sold by several companies but... here is one link to get the idea....

https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Relocation-Compatible-1185/dp/B00B2AEOLI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Relocaters change the travel bias for the worse by adding to the compressed length. And the leverage they add to the lower mount increases the chance of tearing them off. Better to trim the spring seat.
 
Yeah more bending needed. Those were prebent SS tubes lines and I should have just made my own. Luckily and unfortunately I am skilled with a death wheel. Volunteering to remove RVs from the woods gives you lots of experience cutting things up!

-Mac
 
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they sell a shock relocator... they are cheap and works for exactly that failure mode you seen... it is my understanding that even Rough country ones are good enough.... they are sold by several companies but... here is one link to get the idea....

https://www.amazon.com/Rough-Country-Relocation-Compatible-1185/dp/B00B2AEOLI/?tag=wranglerorg-20

I had RJ’s version and wasn’t a big fan of how thin they were or how much they stuck out…but it got me out on the trail.
 
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Cut away. The norm for can up shocks with 4” lift. Don’t be stingy. Take plenty. Things move a lot off-road.
 
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