Should I buy this Ford 8.8 axle?

Just curious, did you consider a junk yard 14? They are really strong and plenty cheap. Atleast much cheaper than the Currie...what made you lean towards that axle vs the cheap junk yard 14 bolt?
We typically don't consider them due to the actual economics of how it all works. Essentially what you are paying for is the cost of the empty housing and that delta versus any other option.

The gear set and set up are a wash, you're gonna need that for either axle.
Locker choice is a wash, you're buying a 60 or a 14 bolt locker.
Stronger shafts are a wash, you're buying them for either axle.
Brakes are a wash since you can't run the stock brakes correctly that come on a 14 bolt and the options to put brakes on them for any sort of bias are very limited and if you get something correct, it is more expensive than 60 brakes.
Bracket kit is very close since what he got from Currie is a small truss and a pair of LCA brackets.
I haven't looked lately but getting the 14 bolt over to 5 on 5.5 wasn't very easy at one point but that may have changed. Not easy typically means not cheap.
14 bolt centers are bigger than the RJ 60 and not exactly ideal for 37's.
And finally, they are low pinion.

If you go to ECGS and price out the equivalent or semi equivalent 14 bolt since they don't have the option of 35 spline shafts in their menu, upper control arm mount surface, or brakes, they work out to about 5 grand without those included.

It is however, about the same discussion as the 8.8 over a 44. At the end of the day, the difference in price is the cost of the housing set up to bolt in and by the time you get them both set up to bolt into a TJ, the difference is not very large.
 
What the hell are you talking about?
Talk out of your ass much?

I’m trying to ask questions and get facts and you over there blurting our random shit. Keep your worthless comments to you self.
Why is the tire size and reason to upgrade a worthless consideration?
 
Why is the tire size and reason to upgrade a worthless consideration?
It’s is. But his comment timing and replying to my statement like it was secret was idiotic.
My tire size has been in my profile since day 1.

Some of these members can’t help to put their input in even when it’s worthless and pointless.
 
We typically don't consider them due to the actual economics of how it all works. Essentially what you are paying for is the cost of the empty housing and that delta versus any other option.

The gear set and set up are a wash, you're gonna need that for either axle.
Locker choice is a wash, you're buying a 60 or a 14 bolt locker.
Stronger shafts are a wash, you're buying them for either axle.
Brakes are a wash since you can't run the stock brakes correctly that come on a 14 bolt and the options to put brakes on them for any sort of bias are very limited and if you get something correct, it is more expensive than 60 brakes.
Bracket kit is very close since what he got from Currie is a small truss and a pair of LCA brackets.
I haven't looked lately but getting the 14 bolt over to 5 on 5.5 wasn't very easy at one point but that may have changed. Not easy typically means not cheap.
14 bolt centers are bigger than the RJ 60 and not exactly ideal for 37's.
And finally, they are low pinion.

If you go to ECGS and price out the equivalent or semi equivalent 14 bolt since they don't have the option of 35 spline shafts in their menu, upper control arm mount surface, or brakes, they work out to about 5 grand without those included.

It is however, about the same discussion as the 8.8 over a 44. At the end of the day, the difference in price is the cost of the housing set up to bolt in and by the time you get them both set up to bolt into a TJ, the difference is not very large.
This is the worst comparison between a 14 and a rear 60 I have ever seen. And once again, another derail that’s riddledd with opinions stated as facts.
Who the hell uogrades a 14 bolt to 35 spline or would want to?
Fouled plug asked someone a question, why did you even answer?
 
Just curious, did you consider a junk yard 14? They are really strong and plenty cheap. Atleast much cheaper than the Currie...what made you lean towards that axle vs the cheap junk yard 14 bolt?

A 14 bolt isn't a bad option. What it is also is is a lot of work and expense to make one meet my specifications. On the surface, I would want to rebuild it and replace all seals and wear items. To get better clearance I'd need to shave and find or make a shaved diff cover. I'd need to shorten the tubes and reweld the Cs. By shortening the tubes I'd also need to purchase shorter shafts. I'd need to correctly place TJ brackets. I'd need to have it regeared and a locker installed. I would need to figure out what I wanted for knuckles. I'd need to find brakes for the front and rear that are appropriate sizes for the TJ. If you have a buddy who has a bunch of free parts laying around and he has his own machine shop and he's willing to do the labor for a pack of beer, then sure you can forget about most of what I said. Even after all of that work and additional expense, ground clearance ends up similar and with a much larger patch.

With the RJ60 all of the figuring stuff out was done for me and I was able to get a purpose designed and built axle. Everything was relatively easy and possibly similar cost out the door.
 
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What the hell are you talking about?
Talk out of your ass much?

I’m trying to ask questions and get facts and you over there blurting our random shit. Keep your worthless comments to you self.

I'm pointing the answer to the question on post # 18. That till now you was avoiding to answer.

I do tent not to talk much but when I do, trust me I'm not talking my ass out.

Honestly, I have no idea yet of what exactly you wants to know.

Why the tire size and reason to upgrade a worthless consideration?

BTW, The facts you are looking for will just shows up when you decide to understand others points more than argument it.
 
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[QUOTE="

Some of these members can’t help to put their input in even when it’s worthless and pointless.[/QUOTE]

Trust me, if your attitude was different I will be probably posting the information do you need it even when you are not going to understand it.
 
We typically don't consider them due to the actual economics of how it all works. Essentially what you are paying for is the cost of the empty housing and that delta versus any other option.

The gear set and set up are a wash, you're gonna need that for either axle.
Locker choice is a wash, you're buying a 60 or a 14 bolt locker.
Stronger shafts are a wash, you're buying them for either axle.
Brakes are a wash since you can't run the stock brakes correctly that come on a 14 bolt and the options to put brakes on them for any sort of bias are very limited and if you get something correct, it is more expensive than 60 brakes.
Bracket kit is very close since what he got from Currie is a small truss and a pair of LCA brackets.
I haven't looked lately but getting the 14 bolt over to 5 on 5.5 wasn't very easy at one point but that may have changed. Not easy typically means not cheap.
14 bolt centers are bigger than the RJ 60 and not exactly ideal for 37's.
And finally, they are low pinion.

If you go to ECGS and price out the equivalent or semi equivalent 14 bolt since they don't have the option of 35 spline shafts in their menu, upper control arm mount surface, or brakes, they work out to about 5 grand without those included.

It is however, about the same discussion as the 8.8 over a 44. At the end of the day, the difference in price is the cost of the housing set up to bolt in and by the time you get them both set up to bolt into a TJ, the difference is not very large.


Once again? Who the hell is talking about front axles? Holy hell! Get out of this thread and start posting your random ass, pointless post so where else.
Inner c on a 14 bolt rear with no rear steer? What the....
You keep whining about brakes? Grow a pair, 3/4 ton brakes worn fine for everyone with a dang 14 bolt REAR.
Your also comparing an axle build to another “from scratch” axle build and acting like the 14 bolt will cost more since your redoing everything in it. The 60 your comparing it to is going through the same exact fabrication. Your posts make no sense.
 
Edit: you can’t even quote right.

Okay. You have to have the last word. Another Worthless post from you.
Keep your info. Make this forum a secret forum where you need to have the secret code to get the info.

You run a Dana 35 or an 8.8? Geez. Stay on track.
 
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This is the worst comparison between a 14 and a rear 60 I have ever seen. And once again, another derail that’s riddledd with opinions stated as facts.
Who the hell uogrades a 14 bolt to 35 spline or would want to?
Fouled plug asked someone a question, why did you even answer?
Which part is opinion?
The gear set and set up are a wash, you're gonna need that for either axle.
Not opinion, price them out. 14 bolts don't come with 5.38's
Locker choice is a wash, you're buying a 60 or a 14 bolt locker.
Not opinion, 14 bolts don't come with ARB's or Zips or E-lockers, or any selectable for that matter.
Stronger shafts are a wash, you're buying them for either axle.
Again?
Brakes are a wash since you can't run the stock brakes correctly that come on a 14 bolt and the options to put brakes on them for any sort of bias are very limited and if you get something correct, it is more expensive than 60 brakes.
That's not opinion, it is factual.
Bracket kit is very close since what he got from Currie is a small truss and a pair of LCA brackets.
14 bolts do not bolt into a TJ, you need some method to do so which involves a bracket kit of some sort.
I haven't looked lately but getting the 14 bolt over to 5 on 5.5 wasn't very easy at one point but that may have changed. Not easy typically means not cheap.
This is opinion since I don't know for sure and stated as such.
14 bolt centers are bigger than the RJ 60 and not exactly ideal for 37's.
Guessing you are still missing the value of missing hangy downy bits?
And finally, they are low pinion.
Are they not low pinion?

If you go to ECGS and price out the equivalent or semi equivalent 14 bolt since they don't have the option of 35 spline shafts in their menu, upper control arm mount surface, or brakes, they work out to about 5 grand without those included.
Did you go price one out?

It is however, about the same discussion as the 8.8 over a 44. At the end of the day, the difference in price is the cost of the housing set up to bolt in and by the time you get them both set up to bolt into a TJ, the difference is not very large.
 
Once again? Who the hell is talking about front axles? Holy hell! Get out of this thread and start posting your random ass, pointless post so where else.
Inner c on a 14 bolt rear with no rear steer? What the....
You keep whining about brakes? Grow a pair, 3/4 ton brakes worn fine for everyone with a dang 14 bolt REAR.
Your also comparing an axle build to another “from scratch” axle build and acting like the 14 bolt will cost more since your redoing everything in it. The 60 your comparing it to is going through the same exact fabrication. Your posts make no sense.
Would you please point out to me where I said anything about an inner C or rear steer, or anything to do with the bits you normally see on a front axle? Go ahead, I'll wait.
 
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You keep whining about brakes? Grow a pair, 3/4 ton brakes worn fine for everyone with a dang 14 bolt REAR.
They "work fine" if you don't ever take it out of 4wd. In 2 wheel drive, they are anything but fine and all you wind up doing is locking up the rear brakes every time you try to stop. But, not something I expected you to understand or even know.
Your also comparing an axle build to another “from scratch” axle build and acting like the 14 bolt will cost more since your redoing everything in it. The 60 your comparing it to is going through the same exact fabrication. Your posts make no sense.
Thank you for making my exact point. Now you're starting to get it. The difference in cost is generally the housing cost differences since most everything else is a wash.
 
You can't even begin to see that the discussion is the same.
We are however, doing our best to break it down in smaller bits of information to digest and using shorter easier to understand sentences. (except for that one)

But, the best part of discussing stuff with anyone who has adopted a position is they will say anything to support that position and when it starts getting holes poked in it, then the name calling and insults start. Fun, but predictable. ;)
 
A 14 bolt isn't a bad option. What it is also is is a lot of work and expense to make one meet my specifications. On the surface, I would want to rebuild it and replace all seals and wear items. To get better clearance I'd need to shave and find or make a shaved diff cover. I'd need to shorten the tubes and reweld the Cs. By shortening the tubes I'd also need to purchase shorter shafts. I'd need to correctly place TJ brackets. I'd need to have it regeared and a locker installed. I would need to figure out what I wanted for knuckles. I'd need to find brakes for the front and rear that are appropriate sizes for the TJ. If you have a buddy who has a bunch of free parts laying around and he has his own machine shop and he's willing to do the labor for a pack of beer, then sure you can forget about most of what I said. Even after all of that work and additional expense, ground clearance ends up similar and with a much larger patch.

With the RJ60 all of the figuring stuff out was done for me and I was able to get a purpose designed and built axle. Everything was relatively easy and possibly similar cost out the door.
Let’s stay with rear axles. But good perspective if you are talking rear axles.

Would you please point out to me where I said anything about an inner C or rear steer, or anything to do with the bits you normally see on a front axle? Go ahead, I'll wait.

Clicked the wrong reply mrblaine.
Never witnessed anyone try and show how a aftermarket 60 rear is better than a 14bolt rear. But there’s always a first.

They "work fine" if you don't ever take it out of 4wd. In 2 wheel drive, they are anything but fine and all you wind up doing is locking up the rear brakes every time you try to stop. But, not something I expected you to understand or even know.

My uncle runs a 14 bolt in his tj with 3/4 brakes, no other brake modifications and a Dana 60 front with stock 60 brakes. I’ve driven it on the street probably 100 miles total in my life and never locked up the rear axle ever. 2wd on the street. Running a 37”. It works better than stock.
Once again, your opinion and not factual
 
Let’s stay with rear axles. But good perspective if you are talking rear axles.



Clicked the wrong reply mrblaine.
Never witnessed anyone try and show how a aftermarket 60 rear is better than a 14bolt rear. But there’s always a first.



My uncle runs a 14 bolt in his tj with 3/4 brakes, no other brake modifications and a Dana 60 front with stock 60 brakes. I’ve driven it on the street probably 100 miles total in my life and never locked up the rear axle ever. 2wd on the street. Running a 37”. It works better than stock.
Once again, your opinion and not factual.
Would you go back and read post #130 to me please? Probably appropriate right about now.