Should I upgrade my Dana 30 or just go with a Dana 44?


mrblaine

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Jerry and PurpleTJAZ: Thanks for the wheeling examples. Sounds like keeping the Dana 30 with a 27 spline chromoly axles is the way to go. Both of you are saying I can go up to 35s later. The 30 spline inners may be overkill at this point. I don't think it's worth calling and changing the orders at this point. It's only a few bucks more.

Since you mentioned broken ball joints...On another post, Jerry has said to go with the Spicer ball joints. Should I replace them when I have the axle apart regardless of condition? The Jeep has 78K miles on it?
The Unlimited will suffer a bit on 33's for the trails you mentioned. I'm never comfortable recommending that model stay on 33's and on 35's the low pinion 30 is highly suspect. The HP 30 will serve you better, far better on 35's that rig needs to be on.
 

Irun

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If you get the big joint Revolution shafts, do not stay with 27 spline since that guarantees a break at the inner. If you are staying 27, then get any junk out there that you like the pretty pictures on the box since they aren't enough different that it matters.
I'm assuming then that the 30 spline Rubicon 44 inner would be sufficient for the 1350 Revolution shafts?
 

Irun

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The Unlimited will suffer a bit on 33's for the trails you mentioned. I'm never comfortable recommending that model stay on 33's and on 35's the low pinion 30 is highly suspect. The HP 30 will serve you better, far better on 35's that rig needs to be on.
I'm sure you know the answer to this one. Gathering information about a HP 30, I've come across references to the HP30 being weaker in reverse. As such, some folks say a HP 30 should not be used to pull people out in reverse. Is this a real thing to worry about?
 

mrblaine

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I'm sure you know the answer to this one. Gathering information about a HP 30, I've come across references to the HP30 being weaker in reverse. As such, some folks say a HP 30 should not be used to pull people out in reverse. Is this a real thing to worry about?
It is the same weaker in reverse that the LP 30 is in forward. Neither should be used to pull folks out if they are stuck hard enough to break something.

I watched a rig on a SoCal trail winching or trying to winch a guy out of a stuck on a small waterfall. He had his front tires against rocks but they started climbing. He put it in reverse to ease back some and get the front tires where they were in a better place. Broke both front axle u-joints and shredded the yokes. Don't do that.
 

Steel City 06

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It is the same weaker in reverse that the LP 30 is in forward. Neither should be used to pull folks out if they are stuck hard enough to break something.

I watched a rig on a SoCal trail winching or trying to winch a guy out of a stuck on a small waterfall. He had his front tires against rocks but they started climbing. He put it in reverse to ease back some and get the front tires where they were in a better place. Broke both front axle u-joints and shredded the yokes. Don't do that.
For those with an automatic, does winching in Park (assuming in 4Low) cause similar damage to the ring and pinion or other components that pulling in reverse would?

I damaged an 8.8 that way but it was my own sheer stupidity. (Used a 2WD F150 as an anchor not realizing the parking brake wasn't on). Not sure what exactly happened but it ended up having a stupid amount of backlash, but still drove.
 

mrblaine

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For those with an automatic, does winching in Park (assuming in 4Low) cause similar damage to the ring and pinion or other components that pulling in reverse would?
No idea, never seen anyone break anything in park.
I damaged an 8.8 that way but it was my own sheer stupidity. (Used a 2WD F150 as an anchor not realizing the parking brake wasn't on). Not sure what exactly happened but it ended up having a stupid amount of backlash, but still drove.
Crushed the crush sleeve some more.
 
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J Harding

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I have on order the 30 spline axles with the larger chromoly 1350 style u-joints. A big factor for me to purchase those axles from RGA is they are made in USA.

Thanks for the ball joint advice I will be changing them with Spicer.

As for the driveshaft, I need to contact RockKrawler (suspension) and discuss whether or not I need to change the driveshaft, go to longer yoke, or leave it alone. At a minimum, I will be upgrading the U-Joints per Jerry's post. The suspension is a 2" X-factor with longer down travel. Please keep the comments coming. Always appreciated.
 

imahnu17

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@J Harding Not sure this was covered but is the 2" of lift all the lift you're looking to run with your 33s? If so i'd definitely look into adding a 1.25bl to give you some more room for those tires. 2" wont give you much room for up travel before you're into your fenders.

@Steel City 06 I've winched several times in park and haven't had any issues. I do press on the brake however. I've pulled out a friends tundra a few times with that method.
 
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Jerry Bransford

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@J Harding Not sure this was covered but is the 2" of lift all the lift you're looking to run with your 33s? If so i'd definitely look into adding a 1.25bl to give you some more room for those tires. 2" wont give you much room for up travel before you're into your fenders.
4" of additional clearance is my standard recommendation for 33's. Like a 3" suspension lift plus a 1" or 1.25" body lift. By itself a 2" suspension lift does not give adequate tire clearance for 33's unless it's strictly a street Jeep and also slowed considerably when going over the speed bumps in the parking lot.
 
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SoCalTJ

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If your jeep never sees snow you could go with an automatic locker in the dana 30 about $2-300 and the install isn't too bad. Of course you will have to accept the ratcheting noise unless you go with Powertrax No-Slip locker.

I went with the Aussie torq locker, super easy to install and they market that it's stronger than the others since it has less parts. I don't mind the ratcheting noise since I know it's normal but it will turn heads and people will think your jeep might fall apart. I even had a fellow Jeeper come over at the gas pump and warn me that I had a noise. :LOL:
I also have the torq locker that I’ve put on both my jeeps…love them. The funny thing is that one of them is near silent where the other one sounds like a tank. On the near silent one the, the gap measurement was exactly in the middle of the specs. On the loud clicking one the gap measurement was on the borderline of the low measurement. I always wonder if I adjust the gap by adding thicker shims if the clicking will decrease.
 
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J Harding

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Ugghh! Hate it when the Guru himself says I'm going to end up with a street Jeep that has to go slow over speed bumps. That's hard.

I agree for 33X12.5s I am going to run 33X10.5s. Now don't start yelling at me for that choice. I'm just not to the 35s yet. All of the mods I am doing allow me to go to 35s eventually. All parts to the axles and lift kit carry over to the 35s except the springs. Just got off the phone with RockKrawler. They said I would be good for the type of wheeling I mentioned at the start of this thread. If not, I will swap the springs to the 3.5 in lift.

When it comes to breaking Jeeps on the trail, I've been there. I had plenty of time blowing up transmissions, breaking the frame and snapping axle shafts. I think I got it out of my system. That being said, once I get on these trails and catch the bug again I will probably switch to 35s for the trail and 33s around town.
 

rhanna

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I also have the torq locker that I’ve put on both my jeeps…love them. The funny thing is that one of them is near silent where the other one sounds like a tank. On the near silent one the, the gap measurement was exactly in the middle of the specs. On the loud clicking one the gap measurement was on the borderline of the low measurement. I always wonder if I adjust the gap by adding thicker shims if the clicking will decrease.
I usually don’t hear it from the start but I can once everything is warmed up. I have 85w 140 oil in it and I wonder if that’s why.
Also can hear it much better now that the top is down and the doors off.

I was going to go with the no slip buying it from Amazon but they sent the wrong locker so I returned it and talked myself into the torq locker
 

srimes

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For those with an automatic, does winching in Park (assuming in 4Low) cause similar damage to the ring and pinion or other components that pulling in reverse would?

I damaged an 8.8 that way but it was my own sheer stupidity. (Used a 2WD F150 as an anchor not realizing the parking brake wasn't on). Not sure what exactly happened but it ended up having a stupid amount of backlash, but still drove.

Theoretically, yes the stress travels through the axel the same. But winching is slow and doesn't generate the shock loads that driving can.

Also, in mrblaine's example the ujoints broke. The strength difference in LP vs HP is in the ring gear + pinion.
 
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Jerry Bransford

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I also have the torq locker that I’ve put on both my jeeps…love them. The funny thing is that one of them is near silent where the other one sounds like a tank. On the near silent one the, the gap measurement was exactly in the middle of the specs. On the loud clicking one the gap measurement was on the borderline of the low measurement. I always wonder if I adjust the gap by adding thicker shims if the clicking will decrease.
Are they on the same axle position? Both on the front or both on the rear? Or is one on the front and the other on the rear?
 

SoCalTJ

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Dang there goes the easy answer. Does either have manual hubs? Is either transfer case stuck in 4hi?
Nope...both are working flawlessly. Just one of them has the ratcheting sound. I really think its due to the small gap or tightness of the gap. I forgot the exact numbers but I was right on the limit. Maybe when I replace the gears I'll re-measure and get a more appropriate fitting shim.
 
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Plumber1

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It is the same weaker in reverse that the LP 30 is in forward. Neither should be used to pull folks out if they are stuck hard enough to break something.

I watched a rig on a SoCal trail winching or trying to winch a guy out of a stuck on a small waterfall. He had his front tires against rocks but they started climbing. He put it in reverse to ease back some and get the front tires where they were in a better place. Broke both front axle u-joints and shredded the yokes. Don't do that.
So what are the proper safe ways to pull forwards or backwards w/o breaking things ?
 

Modoc Guy

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Were you able to use the same driveshaft?
I haven't got to the front yet, still working to finish putting my rubi Dana 44 in the rear. I think I'll be good length wise on the front, but I might have to do a conversion u joint like I'll do in the rear. I'm using a Spicer 5-134x to go between the 1310 driveshaft u joint to the 1330 on the pinion yoke.
 
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