Since when have Cherokee XJ's started to go up in price?

I like XJs, and if I had to daily drive my wheeling rig? Hell yeah, XJ all the way. They aren't as fun as TJs, though, IMHO. They are hell for capable too, until to start wanting big tires. Then the ridiculously small wheel wells get in the way, and you have to start cutting.
Kinda like this? Cutting wasn't a big deal but as you say, necessary for where I wanted to take the build.

1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport
4.0L/AW4
4-port Neon injectors
62mm Throttle Body
Spectre Cowl Air Intake
Upgraded Coil and plug wires.
Napier Precision Hood Vents
Auxiliary Transmission Cooler.
NP231 transfer case
Slip Yoke Eliminator
Tom Woods Driveshafts
High Pinion Dana 30 Front 4.56 w/ARB air locker.
Yukon Axles
Warn Hubs
C8.25 Rear 4.56 w/ARB air locker. Yukon Axles.
Sleeved axle tubes.
4wheel disc brakes
ARB single compressor tucked in rear cargo slot. Plumbed to ARB lockers with dash switches. Included in spot is terminal block for all accessory relays/fuses.
Both diffs professionally built from the guy who wrote the books on building XJs (Eric Zappe) . “Catcher’s mitt” pumpkin guards, front and rear. Reinforced axle tubes.
Black Steel 15x8” wheels. BFG KM2 33 x 10.5 x 15.

OME control arms
Rubicon Express Control Arm Drop Brackets.
OME Shocks

MetalCloak Dual Rate coil springs. Oops.
IRO 4.5” Leaf Packs. Brand new. Have NIB shackle relocation brackets.
Rusty’s Offroad steering.
JKS Front Swaybar Quick Connects.
JKS adjustable track bar.
JCR transfer case skid.
JCR Rock sliders
JCR gas tank skid
JCR tire carrier/Rotopax/Hi Lift jack rear bumper. Reverse lights.
AJ’s front bumper with VisionX 20* Spots.
Warn 9000i winch w/synthetic
Rusty’s Offroad steel fenders front and rear. Factory fenders trimmed to fit.
Interior is near perfect with camo front seat covers, Quadratec floor mats.
Cold AC, heat works A1. NO windshield washer (see Rusty’s Fenders)
Black with tinted windows, NO decals.
Recently buffed spot rust off roof, used Eastwood rust inhibitor per instructions and rolled on RaptorLiner. Otherwise the Jeep is rust-free.
Kenwood CD/Stereo (never use it but it works)

Going to try 35s on it soon.
Picture is with swaybar connected.. just goofing off.

Pretty much done with the XJ trail build and having only had a CJ5 back in the day thought I'd give the LJ a try to see where that would take me. Love'em both, keeping them both. And yup, I beat the snot out of the XJ when necessary. Never overheated, no engine problems ever. 160k mi.

If you're curious, that's a CJ7 on 42s with a 360.

180944515_10208774677120399_1860073273092879299_n.jpg
 
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Kinda like this? Cutting wasn't a big deal but as you say, necessary for where I wanted to take the build.

1999 Jeep Cherokee XJ Sport
4.0L/AW4
4-port Neon injectors
62mm Throttle Body
Spectre Cowl Air Intake
Upgraded Coil and plug wires.
Napier Precision Hood Vents
Auxiliary Transmission Cooler.
NP231 transfer case
Slip Yoke Eliminator
Tom Woods Driveshafts
High Pinion Dana 30 Front 4.56 w/ARB air locker.
Yukon Axles
Warn Hubs
C8.25 Rear 4.56 w/ARB air locker. Yukon Axles.
Sleeved axle tubes.
4wheel disc brakes
ARB single compressor tucked in rear cargo slot. Plumbed to ARB lockers with dash switches. Included in spot is terminal block for all accessory relays/fuses.
Both diffs professionally built from the guy who wrote the books on building XJs (Eric Zappe) . “Catcher’s mitt” pumpkin guards, front and rear. Reinforced axle tubes.
Black Steel 15x8” wheels. BFG KM2 33 x 10.5 x 15.

OME control arms
Rubicon Express Control Arm Drop Brackets.
OME Shocks

MetalCloak Dual Rate coil springs. Oops.
IRO 4.5” Leaf Packs. Brand new. Have NIB shackle relocation brackets.
Rusty’s Offroad steering.
JKS Front Swaybar Quick Connects.
JKS adjustable track bar.
JCR transfer case skid.
JCR Rock sliders
JCR gas tank skid
JCR tire carrier/Rotopax/Hi Lift jack rear bumper. Reverse lights.
AJ’s front bumper with VisionX 20* Spots.
Warn 9000i winch w/synthetic
Rusty’s Offroad steel fenders front and rear. Factory fenders trimmed to fit.
Interior is near perfect with camo front seat covers, Quadratec floor mats.
Cold AC, heat works A1. NO windshield washer (see Rusty’s Fenders)
Black with tinted windows, NO decals.
Recently buffed spot rust off roof, used Eastwood rust inhibitor per instructions and rolled on RaptorLiner. Otherwise the Jeep is rust-free.
Kenwood CD/Stereo (never use it but it works)

Going to try 35s on it soon.
Picture is with swaybar connected.. just goofing off.

Pretty much done with the XJ trail build and having only had a CJ5 back in the day thought I'd give the LJ a try to see where that would take me. Love'em both, keeping them both. And yup, I beat the snot out of the XJ when necessary. Never overheated, no engine problems ever. 160k mi.

If you're curious, that's a CJ7 on 42s with a 360.

View attachment 311736
When my buddy went to 35s, he had to cut a whole bunch more fender and still sliced a tire with sheet metal. Have you checked out the "banana build" on Matts off-road recovery channel? He's done some nice stuff regarding body mods to make room for tires (37s!)
 
When my buddy went to 35s, he had to cut a whole bunch more fender and still sliced a tire with sheet metal. Have you checked out the "banana build" on Matts off-road recovery channel? He's done some nice stuff regarding body mods to make room for tires (37s!)
Ya, I've seen some of Matt's stuff. I'm pretty sure 35s will be just fine on mine after years watching others build them. It's fine on 33s with the 4.56 but have a set of 16" beadlocks that came on the LJ with weather checked KM2s in 35" that I'll try for giggles on the trail. I'll be cycling the XJ suspension for shocks and bumps if I get serious about 35s. 37s aren't in my play book with Dana 30/C8.25 and don't want to re-gear either.

I plan to check if Rock Jock has coils that will fit the XJ if I have to go a bit taller. Seems to me XJ/TJ share front springs?
 
I fell into the Metalcloak 'dual rate' trap a couple years ago and after joining here find out the RJ might be better for me.
IRO rear leafs with military wrap on back.

For now tho' I have a UCF engine skid, BMB tie rod and RJ trackbar to install on the LJR and get the new 5.13s broken in for some springtime wheelin'. Waiting on GR half doors as well.
 
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Most of these sellers need to put their Biden supplied crack pipe down. Auto Expo of Huntington are nothing but a bunch of thieves. They pull bait and switch, and I believe they sell quite a few that have had odometers tampered with.

I like the crack pipe comment 😂 As for odometer tampering: I wouldn't be surprised.
 
I have an XJ and two TJ's and the TJ's will out-wheel the XJ every day while the XJ will out daily drive the TJ's every day. An XJ will also out camp a TJ every day.

To each his own, but most XJ's have been treated like crap and more and more TJ's are getting that way.
 
I’ve got a line on a really nice 2000, loaded with the limited trim and upcountry package. No mods, stock and rust free. Haven’t decided if I am going to pull the trigger but it is tempting.B71D8E69-86E2-46E5-B9FA-02994B77E163.jpeg
 
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If you can buy a bone stock unmolested XJ, do it. Some guys build wheeling rigs. Some just run em how Mopar intended them to be. To each their own. I buy them in stock form only. Want no part in something Some retard with a harbor freight welder and alot of Sawzall blades ever touched. I buy em cheap, I fix them cheap, and occasionally I flip them to people who'll pay it. Most i keep. 6 jeeps total now and 4 are XJs. Going to buy another pair for 1200 this weekend. Do they need work? Of course. But it is one of the most inexpensive and simple platforms to fix up. My problem is after I fix them I don't like to sell them. Maybe one day I'll sit on a classic jeep goldmine. Maybe or maybe not. I dont hack things and I fix them using OEM parts like the dealers would have back in their day. A parts store water pump for example may be 1/3 of the cost. But it will fail pretty prematurely. Some dude with degrees and making 7 figures designed a specific part, and that OEM part didn't fail til say 140k. I'll buy Mopar all day. Which is getting harder to do as many parts are unavailable nowadays. These jeeps were nothing special from day one as far as cost but nowadays people are realizing you get a fraction of a vehicle mechanically and dependability wise for 20x what these sold for. It's a platform that despite some issues has worked since 1987 and in stock form works extremely well. I'm listening to people praise this wrangler variant or that wrangler variant on here but the original post was about the price going up. As mentioned earlier, yes, it is, and that is because there's so many rotted and crushed or extremely beat to death ones out there now. Now to each their own. If you want to build an offroad rig these are a time tested and proven good platform for little money versus buying a brand new Rubicon or something. But the less stock configuration ones that remain, the higher the value of them will go. It's a post covid world, not that I care about covid,but I live in upstate NY. Alot of NYC people are migrating up here to the mountains and are buying XJs up like crazy. There is a demand. Another factor is alot of people that THINK they can fix these vehicles, can't. Instead if chasing a problem they bypass or slap a bandaid on them. Ultimately they're just another hack wagon they'll ask 5k for that really is worth about 800 bucks because it needs 3k in parts to unf'k the mess that their lack of skill and intelligence created. This is my first post. Hate me all you want. But after reading this 4 page long babble of bullshit I stumbled across I had to comment. Fix it right or sell it to someone that can. When i sell a XJ for 5k. It is worth 5k. I dont price gouge. When you buy it everything is excessively repaired, even things that are preventative like brake lines, trans lines, etc. Keep hacking these up people. You're only increasing the values of mine
 
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If you can buy a bone stock unmolested XJ, do it. Some guys build wheeling rigs. Some just run em how Mopar intended them to be. To each their own. I buy them in stock form only. Want no part in something Some retard with a harbor freight welder and alot of Sawzall blades ever touched. I buy em cheap, I fix them cheap, and occasionally I flip them to people who'll pay it. Most i keep. 6 jeeps total now and 4 are XJs. Going to buy another pair for 1200 this weekend. Do they need work? Of course. But it is one of the most inexpensive and simple platforms to fix up. My problem is after I fix them I don't like to sell them. Maybe one day I'll sit on a classic jeep goldmine. Maybe or maybe not. I dont hack things and I fix them using OEM parts like the dealers would have back in their day. A parts store water pump for example may be 1/3 of the cost. But it will fail pretty prematurely. Some dude with degrees and making 7 figures designed a specific part, and that OEM part didn't fail til say 140k. I'll buy Mopar all day. Which is getting harder to do as many parts are unavailable nowadays. These jeeps were nothing special from day one as far as cost but nowadays people are realizing you get a fraction of a vehicle mechanically and dependability wise for 20x what these sold for. It's a platform that despite some issues has worked since 1987 and in stock form works extremely well. I'm listening to people praise this wrangler variant or that wrangler variant on here but the original post was about the price going up. As mentioned earlier, yes, it is, and that is because there's so many rotted and crushed or extremely beat to death ones out there now. Now to each their own. If you want to build an offroad rig these are a time tested and proven good platform for little money versus buying a brand new Rubicon or something. But the less stock configuration ones that remain, the higher the value of them will go. It's a post covid world, not that I care about covid,but I live in upstate NY. Alot of NYC people are migrating up here to the mountains and are buying XJs up like crazy. There is a demand. Another factor is alot of people that THINK they can fix these vehicles, can't. Instead if chasing a problem they bypass or slap a bandaid on them. Ultimately they're just another hack wagon they'll ask 5k for that really is worth about 800 bucks because it needs 3k in parts to unf'k the mess that their lack of skill and intelligence created. This is my first post. Hate me all you want. But after reading this 4 page long babble of bullshit I stumbled across I had to comment. Fix it right or sell it to someone that can. When i sell a XJ for 5k. It is worth 5k. I dont price gouge. When you buy it everything is excessively repaired, even things that are preventative like brake lines, trans lines, etc. Keep hacking these up people. You're only increasing the values of mine

Please show us what you have.
 
If you can buy a bone stock unmolested XJ, do it. Some guys build wheeling rigs. Some just run em how Mopar intended them to be. To each their own. I buy them in stock form only. Want no part in something Some retard with a harbor freight welder and alot of Sawzall blades ever touched. I buy em cheap, I fix them cheap, and occasionally I flip them to people who'll pay it. Most i keep. 6 jeeps total now and 4 are XJs. Going to buy another pair for 1200 this weekend. Do they need work? Of course. But it is one of the most inexpensive and simple platforms to fix up. My problem is after I fix them I don't like to sell them. Maybe one day I'll sit on a classic jeep goldmine. Maybe or maybe not. I dont hack things and I fix them using OEM parts like the dealers would have back in their day. A parts store water pump for example may be 1/3 of the cost. But it will fail pretty prematurely. Some dude with degrees and making 7 figures designed a specific part, and that OEM part didn't fail til say 140k. I'll buy Mopar all day. Which is getting harder to do as many parts are unavailable nowadays. These jeeps were nothing special from day one as far as cost but nowadays people are realizing you get a fraction of a vehicle mechanically and dependability wise for 20x what these sold for. It's a platform that despite some issues has worked since 1987 and in stock form works extremely well. I'm listening to people praise this wrangler variant or that wrangler variant on here but the original post was about the price going up. As mentioned earlier, yes, it is, and that is because there's so many rotted and crushed or extremely beat to death ones out there now. Now to each their own. If you want to build an offroad rig these are a time tested and proven good platform for little money versus buying a brand new Rubicon or something. But the less stock configuration ones that remain, the higher the value of them will go. It's a post covid world, not that I care about covid,but I live in upstate NY. Alot of NYC people are migrating up here to the mountains and are buying XJs up like crazy. There is a demand. Another factor is alot of people that THINK they can fix these vehicles, can't. Instead if chasing a problem they bypass or slap a bandaid on them. Ultimately they're just another hack wagon they'll ask 5k for that really is worth about 800 bucks because it needs 3k in parts to unf'k the mess that their lack of skill and intelligence created. This is my first post. Hate me all you want. But after reading this 4 page long babble of bullshit I stumbled across I had to comment. Fix it right or sell it to someone that can. When i sell a XJ for 5k. It is worth 5k. I dont price gouge. When you buy it everything is excessively repaired, even things that are preventative like brake lines, trans lines, etc. Keep hacking these up people. You're only increasing the values of mine

Balls feeling extra itchy tonight?