Slow 05 LJ Build

seabass

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2020
Messages
100
Location
North Carolina
Hey all, just joined the forum after lurking for a long time. I thought it'd be fun to document my LJ build.

I found the Jeep online at CarMax several years ago for $16k and 92,000 miles. I thought that was a steal for an LJ especially at CarMax. Had it shipped to the local dealer and put my 02 TJ that was having some frame rust issues up for sale soon after.

About a month after I got it I slipped on some black ice over a bridge and ended up on the shoulder, damage wasn't bad at all until someone slid up from behind and slammed the rear (everyone was ok). Long story short it was almost totaled but they were able to save it and since then I've been slowly building it to how I envision it.

My end goal is to keep it clean and pretty simple, current mods are listed in my profile but I plan to upgrade to better parts over time (Currie suspension, hopefully a 44 front axle, regear, etc...) But I'm also keeping an open mind and I'm excited to see how things go/might change. Here are some pictures from before I bought it and then the wreck:

IMG_20170106_193019011.jpg


IMG_20170205_085513735_HDR.jpg


IMG_20170205_085522674.jpg


IMG_20170205_085518210.jpg


IMG_20170205_085534700~2.jpg
 
Assuming it is rust free underneath, that's actually not a bad price for a TJ Unlimited, especially if it was at CarMax (who usually has high prices anyways).

It looks good so far. What's next on the build list?
 
Assuming it is rust free underneath, that's actually not a bad price for a TJ Unlimited, especially if it was at CarMax (who usually has high prices anyways).

It looks good so far. What's next on the build list?
I can't say it's rust FREE, but it's not that bad. I know the spots to look for from my last tj and I've also been very proactive with Fluid Film underneath until I can do some more in-depth care. I also noticed that TDK does LJ frames now so later on down the road that's an option as well. I've heard they're better than oem.

I'm waiting on a JKS front track bar currently, should be here Saturday. When that comes in I'll be putting that in, plus axle mounted bumpstops to get rid of the extensions on the frame side and 3/4" spacers to try and level it out some. I also have 4 new rear factory control arms going in, they needed replaced but I could not afford johnny joints right now. I didn't see the point in spending money on other aftermarket arms when I could spend $100 on oem to just get me by for now.

After that's all done I'll take a break and regroup, see what I want to do for the next big step. In the meantime I'll be doing some brake work, u joints, and more research.

My end goal is to build for 35's so I know I'm looking at gears, brake upgrades, and more lift (S+BL). I think the ZJ steering would do fine until I'm ready for a currectlync setup. A front Dana 44 is also not extremely high on my list, I think with a couple upgrades the Dana 30 would be very reliable for my use.
 
  • Like
Reactions: skrelnik and Chris
Here's my Max Bilt console, planning on taking it out to get powder coated in the near future. It was in my last tj as well so it's seen some use.

Recently put a Dorman diff cover on the rear as well with new hardware as it was very rusty. Sometimes it's the little things like this that can make a big difference in appearance (going to paint over the white logo soon).

IMG_20200923_134837878_HDR.jpg


IMG_20201027_140558172_HDR.jpg
 
Some other cheap mods I've done recently.. front stock bumper chop and repaint, and I made some plates to cover where the flare extensions go out of 16 ga steel

Just added the Body Armor rock sliders last week as well

IMG_20201030_160650172.jpg


IMG_20201030_180835319.jpg


IMG_20201118_105353772.jpg
 
I like what you did with the stock bumper. That actually looks really good. I also didn't know there was a console made by Max Bilt.
 
  • Like
Reactions: seabass
Looks good. We have a few overlapping parts and I also went to get 35"s on my LJ. As you pointed out, problem is the cost of all the proper parts.

What's next on your list?
 
  • Like
Reactions: seabass
I like what you did with the stock bumper. That actually looks really good. I also didn't know there was a console made by Max Bilt.
Thank you! I thought it would be a short term thing but I like it enough that I think I'll just keep it. Maybe weld some ends on it one day. I know stock isn't heavy duty but other upgrades take precedence over it. And I didn't either, an off-road shop I went to in Michigan for some things on my last tj had it laying around and he gave me a great deal on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chris
Looks good. We have a few overlapping parts and I also went to get 35"s on my LJ. As you pointed out, problem is the cost of all the proper parts.

What's next on your list?
Thank you! Yes, I definitely don't want to cut corners on it. I'm just hoping I can get it all done before I need new tires again.

Next will just be some maintenance items like brakes and u-joints, and I'll be researching some more for a big upgrade. Leaning towards saving up for a proper suspension setup next. Thanks to this forum I can't stop drooling over all of the shiny Currie parts
 
  • Like
Reactions: skrelnik
Questions- I've done hours of research on front track bars that lead me to the JKS ogs126.. but with the rear track bar, with stock control arms and NO sye/cv, will an aftermarket like JKS have clearance issues?

Do you use a relocation bracket or the stock location with a rear adjustable? And if you use a bracket, I assume you can't use an angled CV bracket unless you have an SYE?

Or.. would a stock replacement w/ the Zone bracket that I have on now be my best option currently?

So many questions, so much geometry 😵
 
Questions- I've done hours of research on front track bars that lead me to the JKS ogs126.. but with the rear track bar, with stock control arms and NO sye/cv, will an aftermarket like JKS have clearance issues?

Do you use a relocation bracket or the stock location with a rear adjustable? And if you use a bracket, I assume you can't use an angled CV bracket unless you have an SYE?

Or.. would a stock replacement w/ the Zone bracket that I have on now be my best option currently?

So many questions, so much geometry 😵
So I don't like having to redo things. If your end goal is 35s with Currie parts then just save up and do it right and cry once. Unless you are in a situation where something is broke and you don't have the cash now but I think some of the things you are doing will end up being replaced again if you stick to your end goal which ends up costing you more.

Currie makes 2 rear adjustable track bars. One for the relocation bracket and one without. I would go this route. Same with your steering. The zj steering will get you by but if your end goal is Currie and stock is not failing then save up and get the Currie.
 
  • Like
Reactions: seabass
So I don't like having to redo things. If your end goal is 35s with Currie parts then just save up and do it right and cry once. Unless you are in a situation where something is broke and you don't have the cash now but I think some of the things you are doing will end up being replaced again if you stick to your end goal which ends up costing you more.

Currie makes 2 rear adjustable track bars. One for the relocation bracket and one without. I would go this route. Same with your steering. The zj steering will get you by but if your end goal is Currie and stock is not failing then save up and get the Currie.
I completely agree. I'm not pressed to get one right now, but I'm starting to think about it. So I won't have any issues with it by not having an SYE or adjustable control arms? Just until I can get those items that is.

As far as the ZJ steering, I upgraded to that a couple years ago so I just plan on running that until it breaks/wears out
 
@Chris I saw on one of your builds you had the Rokmen 1/2" body lift, would you still recommend that? I'm really not huge on body lifts but it seems like the gap isn't bad on that one
 
@Chris I saw on one of your builds you had the Rokmen 1/2" body lift, would you still recommend that? I'm really not huge on body lifts but it seems like the gap isn't bad on that one
That depends, what is your goal with the body lift? Just to add more lift without spending much money, or do you have plans to do a tummy tuck in the future?
 
Both, the Rokmen tummy tuck works with that correct?
Yes, the Rokmen tuck works with this but after having this same setup I would recommend it. For one, the 1/2” body lift works with their tuck, but you leave a lot on the table by not just going with the typical 1.25” body lift.

In addition, I would never again run a steel skid plate. That Rokmen skid is an honest to god 70 lbs, maybe even more. An aluminum skid such as UCF or the insanely popular Savvy skid is a far better choice as it weighs much less and protects just as good, if not better than the steel skids.

The gap is IMHO something you just have to get over. Once you do, you’ll find out that the 1.25” body lift allows for tucking things much more than the 1/2” body lift.
 
Both, the Rokmen tummy tuck works with that correct?

Others may want to chime in, but I have always heard a tummy tuck not to be necessary on the LJ due to the longer wheel base. @Chris - is there anything that an LJ owner should read up on this topic? I am not well versed, I just recall reading the LJ does not need the tummy tuck for up to 4" of lift. I know there is a good thread on it but I cannot find it.
 
Others may want to chime in, but I have always heard a tummy tuck not to be necessary on the LJ due to the longer wheel base. @Chris - is there anything that an LJ owner should read up on this topic? I am not well versed, I just recall reading the LJ does not need the tummy tuck for up to 4" of lift. I know there is a good thread on it but I cannot find it.
If you are off-roading seriously you want a tuck regardless of wheelbase 👍

In fact, you want a tuck even more on an Unlimited due to the break over angle not being as good as a SWB TJ, assuming the tires are the same size.