So FSM doesn’t help me out with this mod..

JamesAndTheSahara

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As a couple of you guys know the previous owner was so kind as to leave some sheared off bolts in my donor dana 44. I drilled all holes out to the appropriate size to accept the 1310 ubolt and curious if anyone has a clue how much I should torque the nut and if I should use loctite (Just as the factory had the straps secured). Would hate to under or overshoot it. Thank you!
 
Are you talking about the differential bolts on the Dana 44? If so, I know the torque specs on the Dana 35 are 30 ft/lbs. I can't imagine them being any more than that. I know folks have stripped those. I would not use Loctite, unless you're talking about some other bolts...and all this info is worthless...
 
Are you talking about the differential bolts on the Dana 44? If so, I know the torque specs on the Dana 35 are 30 ft/lbs. I can't imagine them being any more than that. I know folks have stripped those. I would not use Loctite, unless you're talking about some other bolts...and all this info is worthless...
No I appreciate it. I’m actually talking about where the rear driveshaft connects to the dana 44 1310 yoke. The ubolt conversion thats widely popular doesn’t seem to have a pin pointed “correct” torque or loctite answer. I completed the strap to ubolt conversion, not my pictures but here is a picture showing the difference:
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No I appreciate it. I’m actually talking about where the rear driveshaft connects to the dana 44 1310 yoke. The ubolt conversion thats widely popular doesn’t seem to have a pin pointed “correct” torque or loctite answer. I completed the strap to ubolt conversion, not my pictures but here is a picture showing the difference:
View attachment 23929 View attachment 23930
I just want to see the torque wrench you are going to use on those nuts.
 
They actually make one but I'd bet good money you didn't have it.
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I've also seen these that have SAE sizes on one end but I'm not sure there is enough room between the end of the u-bolt and pinion seal.

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Oh man! I haven't seen one of those in years! Talk about a blast from the past...

Next thing you know @mrblaine, you'll be showing us pictures of crow's feet and slugging wrenches.
 
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Exactly. Just snug them down by feel. No loctite, the split washers will keep them tight.
That isn't quite accurate. Split lock washers are supposed to be used to provide tension in a bolted connection when the fasteners lack sufficient strength or length to stretch and provide the needed tension in the joint. Common correct applications would be brass terminals used in electrical connections like a starter and solenoid. Pitman arm where the shank is very short and won't stretch correctly since the nut used is actually a jam nut and not a normal height nut.

They are very commonly misused in slip critical connections where they do more harm than good. For the u-bolts, a simple nylok or even some thread locking compound is better than the split locks.